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What Did You Do To Your FJR Today?

906K views 5.8K replies 601 participants last post by  Whooshka  
Today I drove my FJR to the DMV to transfer the title and get a new plate sticker (just bought it Saturday.) Then I drove to the locksmith to get more keys made and one bag re-keyed.

The PO only had one bike key and it was bent and worn, and one of the bags was a replacement and had a separate key. Having only one bike key is dumb, so I got two new normal keys made and one of the shorty keys to use for the bags and gas tank.

Had to leave the bag at the locksmith to get re-keyed. Should be done in a couple of days.

After I got home I installed the most essential of upgrades.
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Any other DoD members here? Member #1276 here.
 
Today I removed the fairing so I could clean up the terrible wiring job whoever installed the accessories (heated grips, driving lights and HID headlights) did.
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I'll make a complete post when I'm all done cleaning it up.
 
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Yesterday I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder. Had to go buy and modify a C-Clip pliers since mine would not reach far enough into the bore. $5 well spent.
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But, that did not fix the problem I was trying to solve, so some more forum searching appears to indicate that "sticky clutch plates" are a known thing. So I changed my habits a little to compensate. I might take the clutch apart and soak the discs later, but I'm going on a trip soon and don't want to deal with it now.

I also printed and installed a cover for the fuse block I installed under the seat.
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Then the last thing I did was remove the sticker from the left bag - the right didn't have one - and install new stickers.
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Are you sure you bled the clutch fully?
I have a MightyVac and bled it using that and the old fashioned way. I might try and bleed it some more this afternoon.

While the bike is off I can put the transmission in first and when I pull the clutch I have to rock the bike a bit before it will release and roll. Feels like sticky plates to me. It also gets better after the bike has warmed up.
 
While red's method may work, you're in there, so remove all the plates. The inner ones likely need a good cleaning. "Soak" can be for a few minutes as the friction material doesn't really absorb oil.
Yeah, I figured that when I got around to opening it up I would just pull all the plates and do it right. But as long as I let the bike warm up while I gear up everything thing works fine for now.
 
I took the rear wheel off yesterday to get a new tire mounted. The PO had applied tons of grease on the splines and it was slung all over the cush drive cover. So I had to clean that all up.

I also took off the two lower fairing panels to remove the foot shields that came with the bike. After my 650 mile ride Sun-Tues I decided I'd rather have some highway pegs. I ordered a set of Garauld's mounts and pegs.

The foot shields will be for sale as soon as I can figure out what they are worth.

Next up is an oil change and when the new gasket arrives I'll "soak the clutch plates" to try and improve that issue.
 
Today I replaced all the bleeders with Speed Bleeders, then I bled the brakes, front and rear, including cycling the ABS several times, and then bled the clutch.

It was a little messy, but easy.
 
Well, yesterday's TB sync turned into a bunch more stuff. I discovered that the voltage regulator was just bouncing around by the shock (mounting point is broken off) so I had to figure out what to do about that (see my other thread about it if you care.)

Then since I can't trust the POs work I decided I'd better look at the drive shaft splines. I pulled the final drive off and then removed the U joint by the output shaft. The drive shaft splines had some lube on them but the output shaft splines were dry as a bone. So I cleaned that all up and applied some high pressure grease to all the splines.

Finally I got the bike all back together and synced the TBs. They were not off by much, probably not even enough to make a difference, but now at least I know.

Today I rode the bike to the Yamaha dealer and bought a quart of the special final drive juice and changed that out since the POs notes just say "75W90 syn".

I think that's the last maintenance item for now. The coolant was supposedly changed about 7000 miles ago and looked pretty clean when I drained it for the valve check, so I'll let that go and maybe changed it next spring. Spark plugs were also swapped out when the coolant was changed and they looked good too.

Time to just ride it for a while. :cool:
 
Today I went out into the garage and followed a hunch and put the bike into diag mode. Sure enough, someone had already done the Barbarian mod. Of course I have no idea what the original CO values were, so I'll probably play with it a bit.

I also removed the screws from the saddle bag lock cylinders, cleaned them and reinstalled them with blue lock tite. One side was super loose and the other wasn't really very tight. Hopefully my lock tite is still good because it was pretty thin.
 
This afternoon I installed some foam grip covers to see if increasing the grip diameter will help prevent my wrist from getting so sore and my hand from falling asleep. I'll let them dry (I used soapy water to install them and it was a struggle) and then I'll have to go for a ride to see if it helps.
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