[SkooterG]

I have hundreds of thousands of miles on different FJRs over all generations using the Rotella T4 15W-40 non-synthetic. No issues whatsoever. Sometimes I use the equivalent Delvac or Kirkland 15W-40 when I find it cheaper. And if it's on sale, sometimes I'll splurge for the Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic.

It's f***ing oil. It works.

 

[Oldjeep]

OJ on his lawmower...
View attachment 108038

Lol,. Nah just a Honda push mower. You can but bacon grease in it and it wouldn't care.

 

[JoelTheMole]

I decided to try the Rotella T6 full synthetic for the 1300 on the oil change today. Seems like some clutch slipping a little more than I noticed from a stop. Requiring more RPM's to engage and sputtering.

Sounds like there is some potential mix up of problems here, a slipping clutch doesnt cause "sputtering" or "require more RPMs" that sounds like a running issue you are needing to slip the clutch more to work around. The most clear indication of clutch slip issue is when you are in high gear at full throttle near torque peak, so if you are not slipping in 3rd+ as you approach 7k RPMs, you are not slipping down low in first.

 

[Intuit]

Lol,. Nah just a Honda push mower. You can but bacon grease in it and it wouldn't care.

OMG you hear that fellas?! He just called Rotella "bacon grease"!!!

(I'm kidding! I'm kidding! He didn't....)

 

[ReRose]

I call Rotella "flush oil".

 

[ReRose]

What is funny is mt friend has 140,000 miles on his 1200 ZRX all with non-synthetic Rotella and he gets a laff out of "flush oil".

 

[RaYzerman]

 

[johngriffin8]

I would always use the best recommended oil for each bike

 

[rbentnail]

I would always use the best recommended oil for each bike

And just what would that be? Since you clearly don't know which oil to use?

 

[JoelTheMole]

I was using O'Reilly's MGL51358 filters, but recently found out they have a taller version so will be switching to MGL57356

Basically O'Reilly's store brand version of a normal service interval Mobil1 M1-110A.

As a side point Mobil1 15W50 comes in a 5 quart jug as opposed to the Shell 4 quart jugs, so it might be a better deal per quart than some realize.

 

[Cherryriver]

I'm disappointed in myself. And I feel I've let the forum-mates down.
It's coming up on eight years I've had my 2009 FJR, and likewise been a member here. Yet I've never even looked at an engine oil thread much less participated in one.
So consider that deficiency corrected.
What dragged me here? I was casually thumbing through my old OEM service manual, enjoying how the page binding disintegrates and leaves me with plenty of sorting and repositioning to do, when I noticed that the engine oil spec calls for 20W-50! Good heavens, I've been stoking it for the past fifty thousand miles with Golden Spectro 10W-40. What a doofus!
The engine is at 93,000 miles and it must be ready to fail.
Harkening way back to Donk's mention of asking a KTM race-engine building shop about oil selection and hearing they use Golden Spectro exclusively, I guess that's reassuring anyway.
I standardized on Golden Spectro so many decades ago I can't even recall, but I suspect it may have been late '70s or even early '80s. I do know that by 1998 it was the only one I purchased and I found even more reassurance when I came into ownership of my first six-cylinder Gold Wing. As soon as it got its first fill of Golden Spectro, the clutch action miraculously improved, to almost Kawasaki-quality. The same was also evident when the GL18 came along a few years later.
So, having already ruined my FJR's motor with 50,000 miles of that dumb 10W-40, I'll just change it again this week at the usual 3000-3500 mile interval with the same old stuff.
Boy, does my FJR clutch and shift nice, though. For a Yamaha, anyway.

 

[JoelTheMole]

What dragged me here? I was casually thumbing through my old OEM service manual, enjoying how the page binding disintegrates and leaves me with plenty of sorting and repositioning to do, when I noticed that the engine oil spec calls for 20W-50! Good heavens, I've been stoking it for the past fifty thousand miles with Golden Spectro 10W-40.

Really? I thought they generally called for 10W40... Don't get me wrong I use 15W50 anyway because I live in South Texas, but I thought spec was actually 10W40...

Honestly though I have kinda said F that light weight oil recommendation even on cars after realizing the cars in the USA seem to often get thinner oil recommendations than the same cars in the rest of the world, I assume for some sort of EPA fuel mileage fleet average nonsense. My wife's 2014 Ford Edge calls for 5W20 and it has seemed perfectly happy with 15W50, average mpg even went up slightly... Her new to her 2020 Rav4 calls for 0W16 in the USA with the option to TEMPORARILY use 0W20 in an emergency, the first oil change I used 0W40 and it seems fine, after finding out the same car and engine code in Australia recommends up to 15W40 for cooler temps than here I think it is going to go on the same 15W50 oil plan as everything else next time around...

 

[Bandit Greg]

I only use the BEST

 

[Cherryriver]

Greg, I think that's for Italian bikes.

 

[Oldjeep]

I only use the BEST

View attachment 110278​

That is only fit for engine use

 

[SkooterG]

The FJR calls for various grades of oil viscosity in the owner's manual depending on the year. Back in 2004 it was 20W-40. Why? Because that what Yamaha was selling (Yamalube) at the time. They don't make their own oil. They have some oil company do it for them and market it under Yamalube.

For many years now the FJR's owner's manual has specified a variety of oil viscosities depending on ambient temperature. Ride more, stress less.

And for those of you who want to piss away your money on pricey boutique oils and change that $$$$ oil at an interval sooner than Yamaha specifies, well, you do you Boo!