I am afraid to ask...Who needs a wrench and socket set if you have a sawsall?

 

Says one who hasn't serviced his / her rear linkage perhaps ??

 

Dunno why Yammy didn't put them in the other way and save us all this trouble..... M10-1.25 x 30mm. Half threaded (i.e., shoulder on half). They are black dichromate coated to resist corrosion.
Yammy 90101-10004. You may be able to find equivalent locally.....

 

Thanks very much. Wish me luck.

 

Mooseman,

WWW.ANYWHO.COM
can find local "Nuts and Bolts" sellers for you, by that category and a local ZIP code.
Just bring the bolt pieces along with you. Call ahead for stock availability.

 

I brought the bolt that I sawed off down to Home Depot and bought a similar size. It was a tad too long, so I had to cut a piece off before installing, but it all went well.

 

As long as you got "Stainless steel" or at least "galvanized" as others will rust.

 

Ok finished except for one more last item. Main stand spring. Any tips on putting it back on. I can get the light spring but the big one it giving me trouble. Should I try installing it with main stand up or down. All rear suspension bearing looked good. Added more synthetic grease and reassembled 61,000 miles. Installed new rear tire and pulled driveshaft and greased splines. Flipped rear break pads, thicker one is now on other side. Any tips on main stand spring would be appreciated. For those inquiring mines, I’m not telling you what brand of tire or grease I used. (Puts a little suspense in the story)!

 

I don't recall having trouble with the springs. You can use coins to extend it (insert one in each space in the coil). On your brake pad comment, you should not see a significant difference in pad thickness on the rear. If you do, that's an indication that something isn't right. Maybe the sliding pin isn't lubed, maybe the pistons aren't moving freely. The only place you should see different pad wear is on the front right - due to the linked braking system. On the front right I swap the two sets from time to time to make them wear at a similar rate

 

Thanks Mortenk. The brake pins are fine. After 61000 miles one pad showed a little more wear than the other, so I did the flip! Now I got to go buy a roll of quarters!

 

saw a post about just cutting a little notch out of the center stand, dremmel/grinder

 

Don't understand why so many remove that particular bolt with all the hassle involved. If you remove the other 3, which is easy, see how the thing swings. If it moves smoothly and easilly it does not need any attention. The problem one is the one on the bottom of the shock as it gets all the muck on it. You can put as much grease on the bearings as you like but when you slide the sleve in it pushes most of the grease out. The top difficult bearing is protected from muck so unless you squirt a pressure washer at it it will do many thousands of miles.

 

Post deleted

 

Regarding your spring dilemma, The bottom tool in this picture is for removing and replacing springs in a drum brake setup. Ive had one for over 40 years and among other things, it is excellent for refitting stand springs. Brake Tool Set 7 Pc.

 

I always use a Big screwdriver to slide springs on. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries.

 

What Kiwi says, or one of those hook tools with a handle for pulling springs......

 

Yup, that is what I used.... and a relatively recent addition to my tool box
Mr. BR

 

What you're supposed to do is before removing the springs, put the sidestand down to extend springs. Insert coins as mentioned. Put sidestand up and remove. Works every time. I posted pics of this 6 or 7 yrs ago but not surprised as folks often tend to work harder as necessary.

 

Mortenk
thanks for the coin suggestion. 26 Canadian Nickels is what it took! Bike was back on main stand after greasing suspension. Using a spring hook would be nice but you can’t pull down when working on the floor. I’m 71 now and if I was 25-30 I could have bare handed with a screw driver. For us old folks, nickels strategicley placed worked great. Also flipping front foot pegs over to install jackstands was another helpful suggestion I got on the forum. Thanks everyone, it was a dirty job but it’s done. Ready to ride now.

 

When I did mine I was really nervous while being under the suspended bike. I am going to consider another approach the next time

 

This thread should have more pictures