For the final drive you should use the yamalube for the bike. They have a additive that stands up to the long term use and stress. I bought a qrt that will give me several changes.

 

4.25 quarts engine oil. Check the sight glass. Fill the final drive till it starts to come out of the fill port. I always change my crush washers. You will need three of them. I use K&N-204 oil filter, Mobil-1 10W40 engine oil, and Mobil-1 75W-140 gear oil. Not sure of the specified torque,(probably 17ft.lbs) I'm sure someone will chime in with the proper torque value. I tighten mine till I like it. You have to be careful with steel bolts in aluminum housings.

 

Torque specs: oil filter 12ft-lbs, oil plug 25ft-lbs, final drive filler and drain plugs 17ft-lbs

 

 

I always cringe when I hear anyone using a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Yes, I know there are specs, but with oiled thread - I just don't do it. I also haven't bothered to change crush washers for over 6 oil changes (at least). On the sump I have changed to a copper washer, but the final drive is still a crushed crush washer that has been there for years. I tighten the drain plugs until just nice and snug (not tight), then cinch them up about an 1/8th of a turn. Never had oil leaks, never had stripped threads.

 

I can see another stripped oil pan thread, asking for trouble to torque to Yamaha specs.
There is plenty of engineering information around on the WWW how crush & peel washers work. Peel washers are stock on the Stelvio.
Been using copper washers since 1975 without a problem.

 

OK, did my first service on the 2014ES today.
Used Mobile 1 Synthetic 75/90 final drive oil.
Changed Engine Oil and Filter.
Drained it dry and added 4.0 liters, exactly.
I always "measure out" as well...found that I took delivery from the dealer with 4.35 liters.
450 miles on the bike...time to put it through the paces.
Throttle body sync at 1000 miles.
All crush washers replaced...oil plug got copper.
K&N Oil filter (it's all my local guy had for the bike).
Hope I did OK!

 

The bike holds over 5 quarts but 4.1-4.2 quarts is all you can get out the drain hole and in the filter, so that is all you need to replace. There is nothing magic about anyone's oil. Read your manual and meet the specs. Oil change does not require a torque wrench. The stories you see on the FJR forums about stripped drain plugs are generally the result of the over zealous use of a torque wrench. New crush washers are swell, but old ones will do the job if needed.

 

Agree! To clarify a bit...you should check the oil level after you've ridden a few miles. Only putting in 4 quarts is on the low side. Usually 4.2 or so are required to get the oil in the middle of the viewing glass.

 

Not sure about a magic additive, but certainly magic marketing! A manufacturer cannot require a specific brand of consumable; they can only require certain specifications. Any top final drive oil will work well. Personally, I've used Valvoline full synthetic fir all my changes and had no problems or hints at such.

 

75/90, GL 5 rated, synthetic oil. Say three Hail Marys over the bottle and that should cover the magic aspect. I also use Valvoline because it is easy to find, reasonably priced and has the coolest bottle design.

 

Bottle would look better if it was red instead of blue...:wink:

 

I agree with the others on your final drive. It'll be just fine with what you put in it. I'm also a Valvoline guy- 7 yrs/ 78k miles and no problems yet!

 

Thanks for the input...
Now...about that oil plug torque spec...
It was OBNOXIOUSLY tight from the dealer/factory...I'm guessing way over book spec.
So I went with 25 ft/lbs.
So far so good...put about 80 "spirited" miles on her today...All appears to be well, even w/o the magic yamalube additive in the final drive (only torqued those to 17 ft/lbs), although the recommended hail Mary's covered that, I am sure.

 

IMHO torque wrenches are way over rated. I think you're tightening them too tight. Snug and a minor grunt with a 3/8" drive ratchet is all you need. This is the way I've been doing bikes, cars, trucks, lawn mowers, etc. since the mid 70's. Never stripped one. Ever. The only times I've ever heard of someone damaging threads is when a torque wrench is used where one is not needed. Just my $0.02 usd.

 

GOOD torque wrenches are fine...to me it's always been the "book spec" that's off...
I agree, however with the principle:
I've done enough oil changes, etc. to know when it's "Guten teit"
I suppose my only point in referencing the torque specs is to point out that the owners manual seems a bit "off"...
PS, I truly LOVE this machine! I'm an FJR fan for life...there may be "better" bikes out there, (I secretly lust after the ZX14R, for many reasons...most of which I'm ashamed to admit), however, the FJR has flawless manners and quite a big stick to back itself up.
When I took my test ride on my 2014 ES, it was like "where you been all my life?"

 

A word about the final drive oil. Prior year fjr specs said to used GL-5 80w gear oil. Reading through yamalubes offerings I noticed that they have differential lubes for their atv and side by side vehicles, some of these vehicles may have a limited slip clutch pack or a wet brake set up in the diffs and/or transfer cases, Those diffs/transfer cases would require the use of an additive like posi-trac/limited slip diffs in the automotive world. I think Yamaha is just trying to keep plain gear oil(intended for FJR, V-MAX and Tenre)out of the special diffs that would cause too much slippage in the limited slip diffs. Hence the packaging devoted for the bikes so you don't buy it for your atv. Make sense?

 

Hence the packaging devoted for the bikes so you don't buy it for your atv. Make sense?

Or the $27/quart price tag. Yeesh.

 

Seems like overkill to me. I'm sure it has happened, but I've never seen or heard of a drain plug coming out. To each their own. I'll continue to live on the edge and not safety wire my drain bolts.

 

I'll continue to live on the edge and not safety wire my drain bolts.

OK, I admit it... I laughed out loud again.(laughing)

 

Recommended oil is 10W40.
Any harm with using 20W50?????
Thx

 

Recommended oil is 10W40.
Any harm with using 20W50?????
Thx

No, no harm. But up your way? What for? Down where I am I'll sometimes use it for the heat of the summer.

 

 

I also have been guilty for reviving an old old thread because I fergetted to look at a posting date so Mr Chasman do not feel bad or let these guys get to you.
There is always the OOPPPSSSS factor .....

 

Since you are new to the FJR: best way to replace the final drive oil is to take it for a ride to warm it up, put it on the center stand, drain the old fluid - it will drip for a while. Then put the drain plug back in and refill until fluid is at the top of the filler hole. Do not turn the wheel during this process! Plug the filler hole and you are done. Probably obvious, but some people spin the wheel during the fill step, which may lead to overfilling.

 

Good advice to an 8 year old question!