I've never dealt with what you're trying to accomplish but tuning the ECU is another option I believe. Might give you better results without all the hassle. The popular guy over here is Ivan's Performance Products; not sure if there's someone on your side.

 

Thanks for your response! I've noticed that Ivan charges only US$350 which sounds reasonable, while here in the UK it will cost just under $1k (around GBP£750)... However, my thoughts are that there is a chance that the previous owner did the ECU flash (maybe in the UK maybe in the US), and this new code is resetting the values to "0" by default during initialisation... However, if it was flashed, then it was not any good...

 

I don't know enough to comment on your theory but sounds plausible. If that $350 USD is reasonable for you it might be worth a phone call to Ivan and run it by him. If you like what you hear it might be something to try. If not you at least gained a little insight.

 

Back in the day, all we had was Power Commander, throttle spring unwind, Barbarian mod (I know nothing much, sorry), G2 Throttle Tamer, reduce throttle freeplay to near zero, etc.. Spent easily as much as the Ivan flash.... I'd skip to the end and go there.

 

Thanks for the advice. Barbarian mod/CO setting allows to make the mixture richer, similar to what PC would do.
I have already tried spring unwind and reducing throttle play - didn't help much, so I returned it back to normal.

Regarding the Ivan's flash - it is tempting, but god knows how much it will cost to ship it + taxes. Also, what if it doesn't help, or I don't like it?! And the worst thing is that I won't have my bike available for at least a month...

 

According to Ivan’s ECU preparation instructions, the CO settings can only be changed from the dash. https://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/fjr1300_g2_2.htm#:~:text=for Gen2 ECU REMOVAL-,ecu,-PREPARATION"ECU"
Is it possible that your settings change to +5 was not completed successfully? I am asking because that could be one explanation. Another is that a different ECU mod (not Ivan’s) blocked the CO setting change, but I think that that is unlikely. Or is it possible that European CO settings can’t be changed even though the panel settings indicate that they can be changed? (That is another unlikely scenario.)

 

According to Ivan’s ECU preparation instructions, the CO settings can only be changed from the dash. https://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/fjr1300_g2_2.htm#:~:text=for Gen2 ECU REMOVAL-,ecu,-PREPARATION"ECU"
Is it possible that your settings change to +5 was not completed successfully? I am asking because that could be one explanation. Another is that a different ECU mod blocked the CO setting change, but I think that that is unlikely.

Well, this is exactly what I did. This procedure is described by Barbarian, by Ivan, and also is described in the service manual. For some reasons, the values go back to "0"s after I switch off the ignition and enter the diag menu again... This makes me think that there is an ECU mod that is blocking CO settings change... So I am wondering if anyone on this forum with ECU mods has come across such "block" or could run a test for me?

 

Is it possible that the procedure to"set the codes to memory" in the manual are in error. There is a misprint in the service manual when adjusting other setting in the Diag. mode. You need to hold down the final button for 3.0 seconds not 0.3 second to set the change. Not sure if that is the issue but is a thing on my USA '07 AE.
Best of luck. H

 

Thanks for the advice! I've just tried this again. But what do you mean by "the final button"? If I press and hold any of the two buttons Co value just goes up and down respectively. As soon as I press both buttons together it goes to the previous menu (cylinder selection)...

 

OMG... Just pulled out my ECU and it seems like somebody definitely had their hands on this ECU... Why would one destroy ECU number? To hide the fact that it's from a different bike?!

 

Wow, is there a label on the reverse?

This is how you can tell Ivan did my mod! LOL

 

Wow, is there a label on the reverse?

Nothing... I guess it was bought from a stolen bike?!

 

Not necessarily. If someone Did do a mod, they may have obscured the original firmware revision, so as to not confuse someone. But that is just a guess. I don't think the ECUs are serialized. But they will have nomenclature indicating software, firmware, revisions, that are installed.

 

I hope so.. And this version explains why I can't save CO settings... Well, whoever modified this ECU (if he did), then they are crap as the mod does nothing to cure jerky throttle control...

By the way, do you have a model number of your ECU by any chance(if your bike is 2006 FJR1300A)?

 

The only thing that will be different, will be the last number.
That is the "run number" meaning that is the "serial number" as that unit was #1719 of XXXX.

 

Hard to say if it was modified.... is the plastic filled with something or just scratched up? Does your bike have an immobilizer? I'm guessing yes as Euro and Canadians had immobilizers starting in '06. I know Ivan had to do surgery for the immobilizer when he flashed my '14 ECU, looked similar. However, I'm suspecting it may have been flashed by someone other than Ivan. Ivan's would have fixed your issues with throttle snatch and I'm pretty sure he did not disable the ability to change the CO settings, since he recommended setting them to zero once you had your ECU back.

 

Ahaaa!!! That's a good point! My bike has the immobiliser indeed! The previous owner had a fire in his house, so the keys were burnt including the red key. The previous owner took the bike to a garage (I have the invoice) where he got the new keys done, including the red key, which means they had to program it with the immobilizer! If this operation requires surgery in ECU, that is the likely reason for that mess on the housing. It is difficult to say whether it is filled or just scratched up, but it does look like there was a hole in it! I will give that garage a call tomorrow for more info.

I think the case is solved!

Thanks to all of you lovely people!!! FJR community is another solid reason for keeping this bike!

 

Come back and let us know what you end up doing.

 

It's possible they needed surgery for the red key..... most likely did not flash for fueling........ kinda all makes sense now.

 

I replaced my '06's ECU with a newer one from an '07 model. The '06s ECU (on the right side of the photo with the number 21) has an altitude sickness issue. The one on the right (with the number 23) does not have that issue. The obfuscation of the numbers don't mean much - if you compare the other digits on the ECUs below and the photo from @skippy344! . So - if the damage was intentional on your unit, I am not sure what it accomplished. Opening the ECU would be pretty hard to do without some other evidence of tempering. And punching a hole in it, and messing with it would unlikely to result in "just" not being able to set the CO values. I may be wrong though.

As @RaYzerman pointed out to me earlier, my bike also has a G2 Throttle Tamer installed (which I didn't know). I am not feeling a noticeable difference in throttle response from my '03 that I rode before I got the '06. So, if you can get your hands on one of those tamers, you might be just happy with the change and you don't have to spend as much, plus you won't have your bike out of commission for any time.

Good luck!

RiderJoe

 

So, just confirmed with the previous owner that he did send the ECU to program the new keys after the original ones were lost in house fire. I called that garage and they confirmed that they had to access a certain chip (responsible for immobiliser), so the ECU would need to be "opened". The engine management chips and firmware stayed untouched. As @RaYzerman said - it all makes sense now, so I can breathe out.

I've read through tens of threads on this and other forums regarding the jerky throttle, and here are my personal observations:
1. I did middle spring unwind mod - it did cure the stiffness, but it didn't cure the jerky behaviour. So, I returned the spring back to normal.
2. I like the way the throttle snaps back without the above mod, but the throttle is very stiff indeed which causes cramps on a long ride. So, to cure that I've installed grip puppies and a cramp buster - see photo below. Works perfect for me and slightly improves my throttle control thanks to the wider and better grip!
3. Reviews about G2 Throttle Tamer are mixed - some people say it helps, some people say it doesn't make much difference. I've ordered one and it is due to arrive today/tomorrow. I will try it out and if it doesn't improve my throttle control to a desired level I will send my ECU to Ivan.
4. My preference is to get the ECU flashed rather than getting a power commander (PCV). The preference is based on my not so positive previous PCV experience, increased fuel consumption when using PCV, good reviews on Ivan's flash (except for just 1 bad review), and I like the theory of disabling fuel cut.

I will keep updating this thread as I progress...

 

My Ivan mod completely transformed how Orion handles!! Through all of my throttle twists, it is smooth, predictable, just like a carbureted bike!!

Oh, and I am getting 42 MPG!! And I am, let's just say. somewhat "spirited" a lot of the time, and it has no ill effects on MPG.

Ivan does require that I use 89 Octane gas here in the US. And we have up to 10% Ethanol in there so....

 

Please be aware that while Ivan's flash seems to cure the throttle issue, it does so as a trade-off and not a cure. I tried really hard to like it but in the end I removed it.

 

What trade-off did you notice? I am curious, so I can see if I have those same experiences.

 

First, I am NOT a Ricky Racer. I'll drag a peg now and then but overall I am a relaxed rider. I'm the type that chooses not to accelerate hard then slam on brakes. I prefer to test myself by riding without using any brakes at all and come close but not drag a peg. When others are following me on unfamiliar roads I have to remember to flash a brake light now and then to warn them of impending danger ahead otherwise one of them might blow through the curve. Also, this is all on my Gen2 2007 bike.

So with that understood, I use a lot of engine braking by running higher rpm in lower gear when in the twisties. When running 6000-7000 rpm in 3rd gear, when I chop the throttle, e.g., instantaneously roll the throttle to full closed, I expect the engine compression to slow me nearly as well as using the rear brake would. Pre-Ivan flash that's how I rode.

Post-Ivan flash I panicked because he continues the fuel delivery, keeping the engine at that rpm, even though I chop the throttle. Try it this way- ride along on the hwy. Pre-flash if you chop the throttle and simultaneously yank in the clutch lever, the engine almost immediately goes to idle rpm, right? Post flash it doesn't do that anymore. The rpm hover were it's at, then over the next 3 or so seconds slowly drop off to idle. It does the same thing at high rpm in lower gear where I like to ride. Imagine chopping the throttle in 3rd at 6500 rpm and the bike acts like it has 2 broken throttle cables and the rpm stays where it's at instead of providing the expected engine compression braking. PANIC!!

Maybe I'd been riding this way for too long. Maybe I was used to the throttle action- I am afterall one of the few that never had any problem with it and did absolutely nothing to change it. Having the flash made (TO ME) the bike unrideable. Believe me, I tried really hard to like it. It DOES smooth the throttle action, no doubt. But it's not a cure, it's a trade that I was not willing to make. After all the analyzing I came to the realization I'm not the freak who hates what (seemingly) everyone else loves and I couldn't get that ECU removed fast enough. Thank goodness I'd used a spare ECU to flash instead of the original. I still have a unflashed spare 2007 ECU laying around if someone's interested.

 

Many men, many minds! 😅
I guess for this reason one may need to try all of these mods to find the one (or multiple) that makes it perfect! I am doing it gradually from no cost modifications to more expensive ones.

 

Same, Rbent. I do not see wanting to ride my FJR, like a GSXR.

This is a very helpful description. Now that I have my stumbling/stalling issue resolved, (fingers crossed...)I will try your experiments and see how I fare.

I will watch how my idles drops, and the duration.

 

I bought a new 09 in January 2010 to avoid issues of earlier models, especially the 07.

Rather than spend a bunch of cash for an unknown outcome consider selling the 07 and getting and 2010 or newer. The 10 had marginally better suspension than the 09.

 

Hello Fellow FJR owners! I have '07 model and as many people on this forum have mentioned already - the throttle is herky-jerky indeed.

Mine is the UK model, so I don't need to do the barbarian mod as I am able to go into CO settings directly (by pressing and holding two buttons and turning the key to "ON" position").

However, when I checked the CO settings, all the cylinders were set to "0". So, I set them all to +5 (like many people suggested on this forum), switched the ignition off. Went for a ride and noticed no difference.

I entered the menu again and found that all the settings were back to "0"!!!

Hence my question - is there something that resets CO settings to "0" automatically? Has anyone else had such experience? Can this be the result of someone's ECU flash???

I really want to try different CO settings before investing in Power Commander... G2 throttle tube is on order, but I believe it will only partially resolve the issue...

I have the same year - I'm in Texas, see if you can get a G2 throttle tamer in the US it runs about $80 which is probably around 60 quid (I'm an ex-pat). I am not particularly handy but it was about a 20-30 minutes job and the difference is impressive and immediate.

 

I got a new G2 for £40 here in the UK from Ebay Yamaha FJR 1300 FJR1300 ABS 2003-2011 Throttle Tamer Moderator Tube 40-4Y-142 | eBay (there is 50% off specifically on our model!) Already installed it today, and now waiting for a dry weekend to test it.

I bought a new 09 in January 2010 to avoid issues of earlier models, especially the 07.

Rather than spend a bunch of cash for an unknown outcome consider selling the 07 and getting and 2010 or newer. The 10 had marginally better suspension than the 09.

My 07 is already listed on Ebay ( Yamaha FJR1300A 08 ABS RED, Stunning Example, Loads of Extras | eBay ) and if I sell it I will get Gen III to benefit from electronic suspension and cruise control! My purchase of 07 was a bit in a rush, but other than jerky throttle I am fully satisfied with it!

Actually, I still can't figure out whether mine is 2007 or 2008 model as it was registered in UK in March 2008... According to Haynes manual the differences between 2007 and 2008 versions are: heated handlebar grips were added, and a new 3-mode ABS unit fitted along with upgraded wheel speed sensors. I do have stock heated grips, however, the colour scheme and wiring (if I remember correctly) are from 2007... I wonder whether my bike was kind of transition version with the 2007 "core" (to clear the stock) and some additional features from 2008...

 

1st:Manufacturing date is on the steering neck or frame. 2nd: Any 2nd gen can be richened or leaned at the idle mixture sync screws. I have had many hours playing with these screws. Factory manual says don't play with #3 because this is the idle mixture setting to keep the world "green" as possible. This all started with me trying to cure an idle issue and not recording the #3 setting. Then I cleaned the injectors made a big difference. Then ---Ray stated, "start with #3 or any sync screw at 3/4 to 1 turn CCW or any one you wish the make the "main"."
FYI fact--Remember these screws allow a constant stream of air into the intake mixture. I found out going much more than 1 turn CCW causes a lean condition that can be felt when using 5th gear and it take longer to hit WFO. The bike would not pull hard in 5th as "it should". Going less than 3/4 CCW make the bike able to pull tree stumps with little effort from any RPM. I ran mine at 1/2 CCW for a few months and the bike would pull 5th gear hard at any rpm above above idle with the slightest twist. This might have been so rich that the air from slight opening of throttle made the ideal mixture for power. SO I put it back to 3/4 CCW. Why?... I don't want to have the CATS run too hot. At least that's what I tell myself. But 3/4 It's still a good setting but maybe I will but back to 1/2 CCW again for all the POWER. Lastly , I don't know why people "plug/cap" the emission air injection system for the exhaust. When you don't play with this, You realize it not only makes Momma earth happier, and It allows for a "rich" mixture as possible that Yamaha designed to use and not clog the CATS after 90k....that's my 2 cents.... Cheers

 

Thanks for sharing your experience!
Well, on my bike I have a label and VIN on the frame which doesn't contain manufacturing date.

My bike's idle is solid and I really don't want to mess with the 3rd throttle body as I use it as a reference for sync. Instead of adjusting the amount of air I wanted to adjust the amount of gas using CO settings within the diagnostics menu on the dash. However, for some reasons my ECU resets any settings to default values after each power cycle.
Regarding the isolation of emission air injection - in my understanding, it doesn't affect fuel to air ratio because the exhaust gases go back to air filter and get mixed with the clean air before entering throttle bodies. It is good for Earth because it effectively reuses the exhaust gases, however, exhaust gases are hot and don't detonate in the engine as well as the cold clean air.

 

I am surprised there is not a sticker somewhere on the bike with MFD date. Some Yamahas had it on the frame below the engine or near it. My 87 Venture had it there, made 10/86. May need to look in areas that are not easiest to see.

 

The PAIR system is not air "injection", but passive air flow from the air filter into the exhaust ports post-combustion, when the solenoid opens (upon deceleration). The air is drawn into the exhaust by the exiting exhaust gasses, to help burn off unburned gasses in the exhaust. There is no recirculation, or any effect on AFR or performance, just cleaning up the exhaust.

 

Ah, OK, that makes sense. I thought the PAIR valve allows the exhaust gases to flow into the airbox.

 

On my ‘06 bike the date is listed on the white plastic sticker (also visible on the picture above) in bold letters as ‘03/06’. On the picture above that is not the case, but isn’t 2002/24 refers to the year and perhaps the day of that year it was made on, the 24th day? I don’t know, but it is one possibility.

 

Very unlikely. I don't think GEN 1 frame (from 2002) fits GEN 2 engine, fairing, etc.