I considered an R1250 RT, or whatever the sport touring boxer is. But I've got 2 friends with beemers who have not ridden them in years. One had a tranny issue that after being replaced 2 times BMW told him no more. Each time he waited 6 months for parts and repairs. Another friend said he broke down twice while on trips and dealers were no where near where he was. The 2nd time he had to haul his bike to a dealer, fly home, wait months and then fly back to pick it up.

Not for me. I like my trips to be no stress.

 

Bring
More
Wallet

Haynes

 

A driveshaft is a consumable item...?

 

Yepper, Just like your wallet.

Ride Solo

 

I've got a 2016 BMW R1200RT in addition to my FJR. Yes, the driveshaft is now a consumable item. Funny, that when BMW instituted this change the list price of a driveshaft miraculously went from about $1,200 to about $300. No change in part number, no change in anything. Something tells me that anyone who previously changed out their driveshaft - got the shaft. As it works out, anyone who has the early wetheads (2015-2019 or so - my memory sucks) gets a new driveshaft for free every 30K miles. My RT with 65K miles got a new free one earlier this year. Almost all of this stems from the fact that dropping the driveshaft and boot, and regreasing the shaft was never part of the 12,000 check. They've since instituted that change.

 

BMW does some weird stuff. There was a period say 1998 through 2006 where a lot of the fluid changes were not required. My 1998 540I had lifetime transmission fluid and my 2005 K1200S had lifetime rear differential fluid (ya right).
Did you know that on the 1600 engine which is a cam/ bucket type engine (like our FJR) you need to change the entire bucket vs just a shim at around $48.00. Let's see 24 valves (possibly)x $48. could be an expensive valve clearance check.

My buddy just picked up a nice 2022 RT1300 and sold his 2016 RT1200. He had the free 36,000 mile drive shaft and also the possible cam failure problems on the 2016 bike. BMW does make a nice bike but they defiantly have had their issues on some models compared to the FJR

 

I've put miles on RTs and they are wonderful bikes, but I'm not rich enough to own one. My FJR is all I need in the big ST category... but yeah 30 pounds lighter would be really nice when I'm trying to move it around the garage or gas station.

 

Not only is the RT 30lbs lighter but because of the boxer design, the weight is splayed out and a lot lower....as a result the bike feels 100lbs lighter. It truly is amazing how different it is from any of the bikes I have ridden over the last 56 years !!

 

 

If I was going to get a Beemer, it would be a good used RT..... good bike by all reports and reasonably easy to maintain. Try to stay away from dealer service, too expensive.

 

Having said all that I was smitten by this. Resistance is futile. I need to ride it.

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Ride Solo

 

post some pics!

 

View attachment 109506 View attachment 109506

 

Oh nice, I just bought a 2015 RT-P today , but just going to ride it till I find my FJR

 

Beautiful bike! I would love to hop an an RT at some point. How does the power delivery compare to the FJR? I'm guessing it's more linear?

 

The boxer motor is very powerful ...more torgue low down. HP is down by about 9 but the bike is 30 LBS lighter than the FJR.
To be honest, it took me some time to get used to the engine....its a bit vibey (but not bad) at low rpms . At above 3000 rpms it begins to smooth out and over 3,500 its fine. Nevertheless, after having 4 cyl engines over 40 plus years, the contrast is noticeable.
Having said that, the grunt of this boxer is awesome....I am sure its just as fast as the FJR .
Also, I find the bike more comfortable. I ordered it with the high seat and installed a peg lowering kit.
The gas mileage is phenomenal as well....consistantly over 60 mpg with a range of over 500kms
Needless to say, I am very happy with the bike....its a quick, handles well and exudes character !

 

That shift cam business would be a concern for me. On some models you get a free drive shaft at 36k miles. Don't remember which.

I got a free transmission with my FJR, didn't get to keep it.

Ride Solo

 

I've heard you have to replace the drive shaft on the new R1300GS every 36K and its on your dime. WTF

 

I'm ready for a new bike after 10 years with my fjr. I love it, but after looking around at the 2014+ r1200rt, I think I talked myself into it being my next bike. Looks like a lot of features for the same fjr money and I like the boxers.

 

Exactly right. Total weight doesn’t tell the whole story. My K1200RS weighs 628lbs wet. My FJR is 644 lbs wet. Sure feels like more than 16 lbs difference. And it’s because of how low the BMW carries its weight.

 

The problem with BMWs is the same as the problem with Harleys, or Hondas, or Yamahas: dealerships. I’ve owned more BMWs through the years than Yamahas. And honestly, they aren’t all that much different. Ineptitude is universal.

The problem with later model BMW bikes is that their design is more complicated to service. When the bikes are running well they are supremely competent. I bought a 2000 K1200RS last year that needed work. Clutch job. It was ridiculously complicated requiring total dismantlement of the bike to
extract the transmission from behind the clutch. But got that done.

The bike is quite incredible now that it has been fixed. Although only 1200cc engine, it is considerably faster and smoother than my FJRs have been. The riding position is sportier, and rougher on my old body, but the bike is scary fast. And it handles better than my 2014 ES ever did. Paralever and telelever designs with stock dampers, and the stock steering damper.

If I had to bring the bike to a BMW shop, even an independent shop, it would have been a deal breaker. Luckily for me I was able to download FSM documents, and buy a Haynes as a second opinion source, to get things straightened out.

I’m not ready to give up my FJR any time soon. It is far too comfortable over long distances for that, and a 2014 ES with 75k miles isn’t worth much money anyway. But I do understand what makes certain BMW models special.

 

The problem with BMWs is the same as the problem with Harleys, or Hondas, or Yamahas: dealerships. I’ve owned more BMWs through the years than Yamahas. And honestly, they aren’t all that much different. Ineptitude is universal.

The problem with later model BMW bikes is that their design is more complicated to service. When the bikes are running well they are supremely competent. I bought a 2000 K1200RS last year that needed work. Clutch job. It was ridiculously complicated requiring total dismantlement of the bike to
extract the transmission from behind the clutch. But got that done.

The bike is quite incredible now that it has been fixed. Although only 1200cc engine, it is considerably faster and smoother than my FJRs have been. The riding position is sportier, and rougher on my old body, but the bike is scary fast. And it handles better than my 2014 ES ever did. Paralever and telelever designs with stock dampers, and the stock steering damper.

If I had to bring the bike to a BMW shop, even an independent shop, it would have been a deal breaker. Luckily for me I was able to download FSM documents, and buy a Haynes as a second opinion source, to get things straightened out.

I’m not ready to give up my FJR any time soon. It is far too comfortable over long distances for that, and a 2014 ES with 75k miles isn’t worth much money anyway. But I do understand what makes certain BMW models special.

That K1200 was/is a fast bike alright...seen videos of them hitting 260 kmh !!
I had no idea the "flying brick" was that smooth either....how many miles/kms on your bike that it needed a new clutch ?

 

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