I have a 2014, should be the same. 10w40 is good to use in temps between 10 and 110 degrees F. You can download a manual off the Yamaha site.

 

Oh, no. Not another oil thread!

Owner's manual says 10W-40 up to 110 F. Over 110F, use 20W50.

I use Shell Rotella T6 (5W-40) year around and I live in north Texas.

If you check the threads on oil for the FJR, you will see people using practically every appropriate grade oil. Basically, you have a liquid cooled, bulletproof engine that is not particular fussy about the oil you put in it.

Rear drive assembly is the same. Dino gear oil, 80W90 will work. So will synth 75W90 or 75W140. A lot of us (pretty much needlessly) change final drive oil each time we change engine oil. It doesn't take long and doesn't cost much. A quart is good for 4 FD oil changes.

If you change your own oil, one warning. If you use a torque wrench, the specs in the service manual for the engine drain bolt are wrong. Book says 31 lb.-ft. That may strip the threads out of the crankcase. Book says specs for the final drive drain bolt is 17 lb.-ft. for the same sized bolt. That is a more reasonable figure.

 

Oh, no. Not another oil thread!

Owner's manual says 10W-40 up to 110 F. Over 110F, use 20W50.

I use Shell Rotella T6 (5W-40) year around and I live in north Texas.

If you check the threads on oil for the FJR, you will see people using practically every appropriate grade oil. Basically, you have a liquid cooled, bulletproof engine that is not particular fussy about the oil you put in it.

Rear drive assembly is the same. Dino gear oil, 80W90 will work. So will synth 75W90 or 75W140. A lot of us (pretty much needlessly) change final drive oil each time we change engine oil. It doesn't take long and doesn't cost much. A quart is good for 4 FD oil changes.

If you change your own oil, one warning. If you use a torque wrench, the specs in the service manual for the engine drain bolt are wrong. Book says 31 lb.-ft. That may strip the threads out of the crankcase. Book says specs for the final drive drain bolt is 17 lb.-ft. for the same sized bolt. That is a more reasonable figure.

The 2014 manual calls for a special Yamaha rear drive gear oil. Check your owners manual for the 2015 model. That is a change from the 2013 to the 2014. Has to do with anti foaming during High speed running. Been a lot of discussion on this on the FJR forums. The new Yamaha snake oil cost about twice as much as the reg synth 75W90. You pay your money and take your chances.

 

I know. Although we all do it, it is pretty hard to argue with either owner's manual or the factory service manual. But I sure would be curious to know who makes that "special" Yamaha rear drive gear oil.

 

.....who makes that "special" Yamaha rear drive gear oil.

The lowest bidder.

 

That is probably right. I use Mobil 1.

 

I just did my engine & rr drive oil & used AMSOIL 10W40 synthetic motorcycle oil. Owners manual says 10W40, I live in OH, it is typically under 110 here. Yes I pony'd up the extra $$ for the special FJR rr drive oil. Cost $23 for a qt but whatever. Should be good for a few changes. Oh yeah...I have a 2014 ES

 

I find it odd that Yamaha is specifying a particular oil as a one and only final drive oil. Why? In the USA, the Magnusen-Moss may come into play. If they get too specific and depending on the circumstances Yamaha may be forced to supply the oil for free. At least that is the theory. Like JohnC said, "like nobody ever did high speed runs" on and FJR.

 

It is also my understanding it is listed for the new Super T and the new V-Max.

Maybe they had some issues with rear drives in Europe on the AutoBahns.

 

Think we recently had a thread on oil drain plug torque issues. I and others remarked that we have never used a torque wrench on an oil drain plug and never had a leak or stripped threads. There were some folks that had stripped threads after using a torque wrench to Yamaha's specifications.

Awhile back some bad torque info got out for the head bolts on BMW R100 bikes. People pulled the studs out of the cylinders in large numbers.

 

Speaking of oil threads.. my daughter bought a new car and it calls for 5w20. I did a little surfing around to see if anyone was using 0w20. One guy said he goes up to 10w30 in the winter because it doesn't freeze a easy as 5w20.......I turned the computer off and went to bed.

 

My wife's 2012 Toyota Venza calls for 0W-20 or 5W-20 year around.

 

Most synthetics freeze (cease to flow) down in the -50s and 60s. I had to start a Nissan 4 cyl at -66 at a trailhead once. We put some charcoal under the oil pan for awile. It started and gor me home, but it had blown out the seal on the oil filter and was leaking at a good rate. Of all the seals that could have failed, I'm happy it was that one.

 

At -50 to -60 degrees I m not going to be on a motorcycle, nor am i going to be thinking about starting one. I am going to be on a plane flying to a warmer climate.:wink:

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=fjr+owners+manual

http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-fj-owners-manuals/

 

What is the consensus for those of us on the Northern tier (Lake Superior) 40 or 50? I like one oil, not spring/fall AND then a summer oil. Chances are you won't find me in Florida in July. Maybe Texas though.

 

Consensus? Consensus on anything related to oil? You must be new here.......

 

Avoid anything with "friction modifiers".

You may see logos like this

But avoid those like this

This looks the same but is okay because it doesn't have the "energy conserving" text (the CJ-4/SM and 10w-30 may or may not be appropriate). Verify with your manual.

 

^ that