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Having trouble getting the socket. Emailed a couple sites as the did not specify and don't want to buy the incorrect one. No reply from either site. Is the YU-33975 wrench good for all years?Mine is a 16ES. N4HHE I'm just hoping torquing takes care of it but won't be suprised if it does not. Picking up a 36mm socket today .
Helped a friend replace OE balls with All-Balls Tapered yesterday on 2018 with 4,000 miles. He was smiling ear to ear after first ride up the street.

The ball bearings seemed to be property preloaded on disassembly.

The OE top bearing seal was different than what I remember of my 2016. He had an All-Balls style seal.
 

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As long as you use the spanner as recommended (90º to the shaft of the torque wrench) it will work as well.
As long as you use a socket extension which requires two hands on the torque wench it doesn't make a whit of difference. Try it for yourself next time. I've shown the math before, try it for real.

With the FJR you have to use an extension on the spanner to reach unless you remove the gas tank.
 

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Finally got all the tools and torqued the bearings as per manual . 80% better but not good enough. It did make the range of wobble narrower only in the 40mph range and not as severe. So I will go with tapered bearings as It's just something I can't tolerate. Not sure if I can do the job myself but will read up. It's getting the lower bearing and race out that may be beyond my skill set.
 

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Finally got all the tools and torqued the bearings as per manual . 80% better but not good enough. It did make the range of wobble narrower only in the 40mph range and not as severe. So I will go with tapered bearings as It's just something I can't tolerate. Not sure if I can do the job myself but will read up. It's getting the lower bearing and race out that may be beyond my skill set.
I hear ya, but bad timing (summer riding) to take on an issue that your not familiar with. If you can wait to fall/winter, then you'll have all the time in the world to remove that lower bearing and race. I am saying this to myself also, because it is something that I have/want to do. I believe from another post, that yours is still under warranty, see if it could be done under warranty stating that it is a safety concern.
 

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Just out of warranty but from other posts they will not cover tapered bearings. At this point I will wait until fall .
 

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Not sure if I can do the job myself but will read up. It's getting the lower bearing and race out that may be beyond my skill set.
The inner bottom race is the toughest part. I used a cold chisel to lift then cut a slot with right angle grinder with 4.5" cutoff wheel. Dremel with 1" cutoff wheel might have been better but the big one was closer at hand. Cut a groove most the way through then cracked it with the cold chisel. Flat screwdriver in the slot spread and allowed the race to come off the rest of the way.

Motion Pro sells a tool for $164.95 to remove steering stem lower race that won't grab the FJR's race. It is handy but not necessary to press the new bearing on. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0544

Next time I want to try one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-63662.html

A week ago helped a friend do a 4,000 mile 2018. Saw others use an air chisel to lift bottom race. That worked but we needed to use a file to clean up divots in aluminum bottom fork bridge where race rested.

My slotted race placed upside down is perfect for driving new tapered bearing. Provides a bigger surface to hit with your drift. Otherwise very hard to avoid hitting the cage of new tapered bearing. Need the slot to get it off else you have the same problem getting it off again.

I have a hard steel 1/2" rod about 18" long which is great for removing the outer races in the frame. A normal Craftsman 8" or 10" drift is great for driving the bottom inner bearing on the stem, and for driving the bottom outer race out. But there isn't enough room under the bike to tap a hammer overhead to remove the top outer race. The long rod solves this problem.

A race driver helps install the new outer races. Helps drive them square. IIRC is 52mm. Other research says Timken 32006 fits which is 62mm. Haven't held an All-Balls tapered race up to this kit. If I remember sizes correctly the correct driver is not here: https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-10-pc-63261.html

This is what I used to install the outer races: https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0550 but it doesn't do 62mm but I know it works.
 

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Finally got all the tools and torqued the bearings as per manual . 80% better but not good enough. It did make the range of wobble narrower only in the 40mph range and not as severe. So I will go with tapered bearings as It's just something I can't tolerate. Not sure if I can do the job myself but will read up. It's getting the lower bearing and race out that may be beyond my skill set.
What final torque did you use? IMHO 13 ft. lbs. is too light, needs to be 15-18. See if your wobble goes away with your next set of new tires.
 

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New tire sometimes minimizes the problem for a few miles. The only long term cure is tapered bearings.
 
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