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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm buying my new AE (bad arthritis in the thumb joint of my clutch hand) on Tuesday. I just test-rode one today.

Wow. What a machine. After 46 years riding, I know what I want in a bike, and the FJR is it.

Having read through EVERYTHING on this forum (geez you're a windy bunch), I decided to pay the mechanic at the bike shop to go over the bike and make sure everything is torgued to specs, that the throttle bodies are synced, that the splines are greased, and that the handlebars are properly set up and pulled as far back and set as high as they will go (crushed vertebra in my neck, so I need to sit back as far as I can).

Any other suggestions as to what else I should have the mechanic do?

It pisses me off that I should have to pay extra to have corrected what should have been done correctly in the first place. It's a shame what's happened to motorcycle-shop service, but I can't do too much work myself anymore, and after reading about the problems some of you have found, I decided it's worth it to me to get the bike right from the start.

Age may keep me from doing a lot, but it's not going to keep me from riding. If I can I'm going to die on the FJR.
 

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You're right, there should be no need to have the bike set to specs when you pick it up; if it's a decent dealership, there should be no such requirement. The handlebars are not very adjustable; perhaps you should begin thinking immediately about ordering some risers, like after your first ride. Check the search function for further info. Ride safe and don't die on the damn thing, it's better to just keep riding....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, living and riding is the far-better alternative.

Risers are on my list (the Hines risers won't be available until August), as is a VStream windshield, a Givi trunk (with brake light), a +7 on the fuel injection, a throttle-spring disconnect, sliders, fatter handgrips, a Bill Mayer saddle (I'm a couple of hours from Ojai), handlebar weights, and, soon as I can find them, foot-boards for both me and the pillionette. (Amazing how much I've learned by reading all your posts)

Further down the road are a PCIII if needed (and if available), a GPS, cruise control, and an upgraded stator.

Have I left anything out? Maybe some tank insulation and some heat-redirecton work if the head is bad, although I'm curious to see how the FJR compares to the heat generated by my old V65 Magna, which, when the fan started blowing, could cook my right leg--curiously it was bad only on that side--right through my boots.
 

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palerider

May I suggest that you make up a set of jumper leads.

You will have to make them because the sets available for cars are no good for the FJR, battery clamps are too big to get in the restricted area of the FJR.

I bought 2 smaller clamps, some 100 amp wire and 2 larger clamps for the car end, it worked a treat and it is now carried on the bike all the time.

I left a GPS unit running and naturally it flattened the battery, jumper starting is the only way to fire it up, one small price to pay for the electric change.
 

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Read the "dropped my baby" thread - have your sidestand stop ground back a little so that the sidestand sits a bit further forward.

If, on your test ride, you didn't like the stiff throttle action, perhaps have the throttle mainspring disconnected. Depends on what stuff you like to do yourself at home.....
 

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SHADOW has a good idea, and you might want to invest in a Battery Tender if where you live means you can't ride due to bad weather for weeks or months at a time. They're cheap and practically failsafe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rabbit1300 said:
Read the "dropped my baby" thread - have your sidestand stop ground back a little so that the sidestand sits a bit further forward.

If, on your test ride, you didn't like the stiff throttle action, perhaps have the throttle mainspring disconnected. Depends on what stuff you like to do yourself at home.....
On the list. Thanks.

BTW, Other than a reference to it being located under the tank, I haven't seen any specific instructions for removing the throttle-spring. Is it self-evident which spring should come off? Does it matter?
 

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Tip Over Guard - not as strong as sliders (usually)

The main spring is evident in front of the throttle bodies, in the centre of it all - operate the throttle and you will see the round pulley moved by the cables back and forth - the spring is attached to that pulley, hooked on to it, more visible from the left hand side of the bike.

If you try to do a search with keywords, you will find pictures and many discussions about this, on this site and our old sites.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Rabbit1300 said:
Tip Over Guard - not as strong as sliders (usually)

The main spring is evident in front of the throttle bodies, in the centre of it all - operate the throttle and you will see the round pulley moved by the cables back and forth - the spring is attached to that pulley, hooked on to it, more visible from the left hand side of the bike.

If you try to do a search with keywords, you will find pictures and many discussions about this, on this site and our old sites.
thankyewthankyewverymuch
 

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IMHO, I think your wasting your time and money having all that done. If your really concerned about TB sync and torque wait a few thousand miles till it's broke in, and then do it all. You can make it all perfect now and you'll find once it has some miles on it the TB's will be out some and you'll find something loose. Wait till everything seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
fjr vfr said:
IMHO, I think your wasting your time and money having all that done. If your really concerned about TB sync and torque wait a few thousand miles till it's broke in, and then do it all. You can make it all perfect now and you'll find once it has some miles on it the TB's will be out some and you'll find something loose. Wait till everything seats.
I get your point.

I've got a complicated agenda: I want to see what kind of work they do; I want to start a good relationship with the shop (there are some REALLY crappy bike-shop mechanics around LA); and I want a kind of baseline experience with the bike to strt off with.
 

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Palerider,

I have a set of Dougs risers I am not going to use. I mounted them, but they are actually too high for me. I will be looking for a lower riser. So these are new, you can have them for what they cost me.

In any event enjoy the FJR. I like mine more every day.


CZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
czguybilly said:
Palerider,

I have a set of Dougs risers I am not going to use. I mounted them, but they are actually too high for me. I will be looking for a lower riser. So these are new, you can have them for what they cost me.

In any event enjoy the FJR. I like mine more every day.

CZ

I'm just heading out the door for a 2-day business trip. I'll get back to you.
 

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Risers

CZGUYBILLY,

Did you install the risers on an 06? If so, I would like to ask a couple of questions if you would be willing to help out a newbe:

Did they match fairly close to the finish of the bars?

Did you have any cable/hose length issues? They already seem sort of tight on mine.

Once installed, do they still allow for the modest bar adjustments?

I have about 900 miles on mine, and have noticed mild shoulder and uper arm aches after riding an hour or so. I am thinking raising the bars a bit might help. Thanks for any info/advise you can share.

AZV145
 
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