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CBF1000 VFR800
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8,084 Posts
Better yet, just do a search for "exhaust".... there have been many discussions already..... go through the list, here's a couple to get your started.
 

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2007 FJR A Model
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8,063 Posts
I sent a spare brand new ECU I got on the cheap to Ivan to be flashed. The plan is to install it and ride around for a while then sell whichever I like least.
 

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Registered
2020 FJR 1300ES
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48 Posts
Why grip puppies instead of new grips? I tried a couple different brands and thoroughly hated all of them.
I'm a bare hand rider 65 degrees and higher. Don't like rubber. Works with the heated grips. Have long skinny fingers and wide palm so I thought I'd give these a try first. Reasonable price. Don't like em I'll cut em off.
 

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Premium Member
2007 FJR A Model
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8,063 Posts
I had a productive day:

new front tire, clean & lube front calipers, and all new front brake pads. Checked on leakng clutch fluid. It runs out whenever the temperature drops. I'm wanting to replace the clutch operating piston assembly but they're as rare as hen's teeth. And I'm still waiting on Fedex for 2 days now. I sent a spare ECU for Ivan's flash.
 

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69 Posts
RGB lit whiteface gauges, and blue LED info panel.

77542


77543


Don't mind the neutral light, it's not that bright IRL. Everything but the turn signal indicators have been switched to LEDs.

...and this is just the beginning of my repairs and upgrades :sneaky:
 

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283 Posts
Installed ye ole R1 upper shift arm link thingie and rode into work. Nice and noticeable difference in the shifting IMO.
Snicks into each gear with less movement and effort.
 

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Premium Member
2007 FJR A Model
Joined
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8,063 Posts
New air filter, a little conductive goop on S1 spider, and installed my new Ivan flashed ECU. And new footpeg draggy knobby thingees. Never found a new clutch slave cyl for delivery in less than 2 months but I snagged one from a 2018 on ebay.
 

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Registered
2020 FJR 1300ES
Joined
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48 Posts
New air filter, a little conductive goop on S1 spider, and installed my new Ivan flashed ECU. And new footpeg draggy knobby thingees. Never found a new clutch slave cyl for delivery in less than 2 months but I snagged one from a 2018 on ebay.
Nice! Have a chance to test that tune out yet?
 

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Premium Member
2007 FJR A Model
Joined
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8,063 Posts
Nice! Have a chance to test that tune out yet?
I did. I rode about 100 miles thataway-> on NC 45-55 mph roads and back on 80-90 mph interstate. Before you read my evaluation of it, you should realize that I've said for many years that I am NOT a motorcycle "purist". I'm one of those people that cannot feel the difference that 2 clicks on a shock absorber makes. Nor can I feel the difference between tire brands. The list goes on & on- all the little subtleties that people post about, well let's just say I don't believe in them and let it go at that. So, keeping that in mind:

1) Folks have posted general statements about "waking up the engine" and "snappier power" and all that. I don't see it. Maybe b/c mine is a 14 y/o 138K mile machine. Still runs like a scalded dog, just nothing different to me post flash.

2) People posted about smoother shifting. Nope, nothing new there.

3) People posted about the elimination of the notorious idle surge removal. Nope, still there. I did have to adjust my idle down significantly. Pre flash it was 1150 or so and hasn't needed adjustment for at least 10 yrs. Post flash, with no other work except a new air filter, idle was about 2100. Ridiculous!

4) People posted about the removal, or at least the change of, the 4-5K rpm vibration. Nope, feels the same to me. If anything, my right side mirror vibrates a little more than before.

5) And finally the biggie- the snatchy off-to-on throttle. I'll give Ivan this one, it's gone. But at a cost. What is lost is engine braking. Guys that ride with me know I am a serious user of engine braking. It appears to me that how the smoother throttle transition is achieved is by forcing the engine to stay at higher rpm for about 3 seconds after the throttle is closed. So when the clutch is pulled in for a shift change, the rpm stay at the level it was at. If you're whacking the throttle some and shift from 2 to 3 at 6K rpm, the rpm never drop from 6K rpm. Even when the clutch lever is pulled & held in, the rpm stay at the level it was at. And when you chop the throttle in 5th at 80 mph it's like there's no return spring attached anymore- the bike continues to go with fuel at 80 mph just like the throttle is still open- for another 3 seconds minimum. Then it seems the fuel is gradually reduced over the next 2-3 seconds so there's even more time of no engine braking. This happens exactly the same way in 4th, 3rd and 2nd. So, to me, with this flash, my days of brakeless twisty riding are over. I can see now why the Gen3/4 riders are generally so sedate ;) and ask about brake pads, calipers, fluid and rotors so much. You guys have to use braking way, WAY more than I ever imagined.

I'll give it more time and miles but right now I'm seriously considering putting my old ECU back in. For people that use brakes instead of downshifting to higher rpm to utilize engine braking, absolutely do this mod. But I have the definite feeling that this "upgrade" ain't for me, it's a step backwards.
 

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Premium Member
2007 FJR A Model
Joined
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8,063 Posts
I did. I rode about 100 miles thataway-> on NC 45-55 mph roads ......
I forgot.....

The reason I rode 100 mile thataways -> : I read a few weeks ago that Ava Gardner, you know, film star, was born & raised in rural farmland in eastern NC. So I thought to myself, "self, you should ride there." So I did. I particularly like this statement in the Wiki article: "MGM's first order of business was to provide her with a speech coach, as her Carolina drawl was nearly incomprehensible to them...." :).

IMG_20210313_131710134.jpg



IMG_20210313_132011790.jpg
 

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Registered
2020 FJR 1300ES
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48 Posts
I did. I rode about 100 miles thataway-> on NC 45-55 mph roads and back on 80-90 mph interstate. Before you read my evaluation of it, you should realize that I've said for many years that I am NOT a motorcycle "purist". I'm one of those people that cannot feel the difference that 2 clicks on a shock absorber makes. Nor can I feel the difference between tire brands. The list goes on & on- all the little subtleties that people post about, well let's just say I don't believe in them and let it go at that. So, keeping that in mind:

1) Folks have posted general statements about "waking up the engine" and "snappier power" and all that. I don't see it. Maybe b/c mine is a 14 y/o 138K mile machine. Still runs like a scalded dog, just nothing different to me post flash.

2) People posted about smoother shifting. Nope, nothing new there.

3) People posted about the elimination of the notorious idle surge removal. Nope, still there. I did have to adjust my idle down significantly. Pre flash it was 1150 or so and hasn't needed adjustment for at least 10 yrs. Post flash, with no other work except a new air filter, idle was about 2100. Ridiculous!

4) People posted about the removal, or at least the change of, the 4-5K rpm vibration. Nope, feels the same to me. If anything, my right side mirror vibrates a little more than before.

5) And finally the biggie- the snatchy off-to-on throttle. I'll give Ivan this one, it's gone. But at a cost. What is lost is engine braking. Guys that ride with me know I am a serious user of engine braking. It appears to me that how the smoother throttle transition is achieved is by forcing the engine to stay at higher rpm for about 3 seconds after the throttle is closed. So when the clutch is pulled in for a shift change, the rpm stay at the level it was at. If you're whacking the throttle some and shift from 2 to 3 at 6K rpm, the rpm never drop from 6K rpm. Even when the clutch lever is pulled & held in, the rpm stay at the level it was at. And when you chop the throttle in 5th at 80 mph it's like there's no return spring attached anymore- the bike continues to go with fuel at 80 mph just like the throttle is still open- for another 3 seconds minimum. Then it seems the fuel is gradually reduced over the next 2-3 seconds so there's even more time of no engine braking. This happens exactly the same way in 4th, 3rd and 2nd. So, to me, with this flash, my days of brakeless twisty riding are over. I can see now why the Gen3/4 riders are generally so sedate ;) and ask about brake pads, calipers, fluid and rotors so much. You guys have to use braking way, WAY more than I ever imagined.

I'll give it more time and miles but right now I'm seriously considering putting my old ECU back in. For people that use brakes instead of downshifting to higher rpm to utilize engine braking, absolutely do this mod. But I have the definite feeling that this "upgrade" ain't for me, it's a step backwards.
I appreciate you taking the time to give your real world thoughts on this. You've answered some questions for me. Every bike is different and react differently to tunes. I was expecting and hoping for a feel it in the seat of the pants difference and improved driveability. Not that I know what that is with this bike yet. I'm very much like you and use engine braking and I'm still very new with the fjr with a little over 400 miles in the seat. I think this bike is pretty incredible out of the box. I'll leave her stock for now and revisit next winter and get a riding season under the belt. Thanks again
 

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Premium Member
CBF1000 VFR800
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8,084 Posts
This subject should have it's own thread......
I think if you ask Ivan, he will explain that he advances the timing slightly, thus your cold idle speed will increase and perhaps warm idle too... that explains idle speed adjustment needed. He also eliminates the fuel cut when you roll off to zero throttle (a feature of all FI), so that likely explains the delay (and losing the throttle snatch when rolling on from zero).
However, on my '07, I did the throttle spring unwind (no flash), and the throttle would not physically return on its own for a second or two as many noticed. Perhaps the same kind of delay. That was OK once you knew it and it became second nature to initially help it return. I'd suggest ensuring you physically roll off, especially if you did the throttle spring unwind, see if that helps.
I'd also talk to Ivan about it.......
Gen3 flash had no such symptom or delay with the throttle by wire, does have a high cold idle, and cooling fans kick in at a slightly lower temperature. As for performance, losing the throttle snatch on a Gen2 would be great.
 

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Premium Member
2007 FJR A Model
Joined
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8,063 Posts
This subject should have it's own thread......
I think if you ask Ivan, he will explain that he advances the timing slightly, thus your cold idle speed will increase and perhaps warm idle too... that explains idle speed adjustment needed.
I should have been clearer- the idle speed was fine at startup and while sitting warmed to the normal operating 4 bars. When I stopped about 45 mins down the road, the idle was then 2100. It took a couple stops and adjustments but once I got back down to 1150-ish it was fine.

He also eliminates the fuel cut when you roll off to zero throttle (a feature of all FI), so that likely explains the delay (and losing the throttle snatch when rolling on from zero).
However, on my '07, I did the throttle spring unwind (no flash), and the throttle would not physically return on its own for a second or two as many noticed. Perhaps the same kind of delay. That was OK once you knew it and it became second nature to initially help it return. I'd suggest ensuring you physically roll off, especially if you did the throttle spring unwind, see if that helps.
Nope, no spring unwind for me. And what I describe, the lag to throttle shut position, I assure you I shut the throttle completely every way imaginable. Let's be real here Ray, shutting a throttle isn't rocket science. And yes, before you comment further, there is just a little free play in my throttle cables so I know it shuts off completely. And yes, these are relatively new cables and are well lubed so I am sure there's no hanging up anywhere.

I know you've been a big proponent of Ivan's flash, presumably without ever trying one on a Gen2. You're right about losing the fuel cutoff, it's certainly improved. But my point, my informed, experienced point, is that it's a trade-off. A valuable tool-engine braking- is lost for it. No one IIRC has ever mentioned this before and if someone had I probably would have saved my money. I'm some $600usd into this and don't like it at all.
 

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Premium Member
2007 FJR A Model
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8,063 Posts
So, in the spirit of fairness I gave "The Flash" another go today only this time more aggressively in the twisties:

1) maybe b/c it was something new I was being too timid. The throttle roll-on from closed is now as it should be. No sudden fuel, no quirkiness. Very smooth. Highly recommend the flash if that Gen2 throttle jerk is bothersome;

2) engine braking is still diminished as I described but after today I think I can relearn to keep it somewhat effective. It's a big change after having something for all these yrs then suddenly losing it.

I think I'll keep the flashed ECU installed for a while and work with it. After today it seems the trade-off may be worth it. Much better throttle control at speed when banging up & down through the gears. It seems that 3rd is the most delayed for rpm drop off. Unfortunately that's my chosen gear for twisty engine braking but I'll figure it out.
 

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Premium Member
2007 FJR A Model
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8,063 Posts
Replaced engine oil & filter and final drive gear oil. Waiting eagerly for my Push Lever Comp. (commonly known as the clutch slave cyl) to arrive. I don't know how much longer mine is going to last tho it didn't leak yesterday. And I want to push the piston out of the leaking one to see why it's leaking and see if there's a repair part to be had. Common sense says no but sometimes I'm not too common ;).
 
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