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It was Sunday and a gorgeous day here in the southeast USofA so I took a relaxed 330-ish mile ride throughout central NC. I re-learned that I need a different windshield....
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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1,524 Posts
I moved it to the corner so I have room to tune my race skis
 

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2021 FJR
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152 Posts
Mine’s in storage for winter and I just received my battery tender today.
 

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This is not your average what did you do to your FJR today! Not really today, but the last week and a half a little bit every night after warming up the garage. PIAA horns (400&500) on their own 20a circuit w/relay, 2 Powerlet sockets put into the Townsends helmet hangers left and right, 1 unswitched, GPS wired and finally the EB PC-8.

I would be happy if that is all it was. During the last zip tying under the seat, I tripped over the extension cord of my double halogen light stand, which then fell over and hit the skirt of the fuel tank bolt perfectly pushing it into the tank. I immediately smelled fresh gas, just a hint but saw no leak. hmmm? I kept zip tying after replacing the halogen bulbs. I keep smelling gas. OK this isn’t normal. I mean I’ve had the tank up and down several times and sometimes I would catch a smell of gas but that’s because I was kind of stretching one of the lines but this was different maybe one of the rubber lines needs to be snugged up.

So I go to remove the skirt and as soon as I began unscrewing the right side skirt screw I see dripping. Not a gusher but a dripping leak about 1 drip/sec. Now I’m panicked because the tank is full, I’m in a closed garage with 2 space heaters and halogens and how the h*** am I going to stop this leak? After a short talk with myself to don’t freak out, how you gunna stop it? By the way I’m snowed in, it’s Christmas Eve, nothing is open anyway. I got to make do with what I got. What do I got? Plenty but I can’t get to it and I need to get this done now!

OK, it wasn’t dripping until I unscrewed that screw. Put the screw back in and that stopped 99% of the leak. OK. Now what? So I undo all connections and take the tank off and take it outside to my patio with the screw in, put down a bunch of towels and let it sit. I can’t have raw fumes in my garage. It’s going to be at least 2 days before I can get a 5 gal and 2 gal gas cans to drain the tank. I had just filled my truck with gas due to the snowstorm coming, so I had no room for 6.5 Gals. The leak was sufficiently plugged though it appeared. Just enough you could smell it but that was it. Towels never got wet.

The leak is behind the screw mount for the skirt, you can’t get to it mostly. You’d have to break the weld of the screw mount just to get to it. It pushed the screw into the tank ever so slightly but enough to do the deed. Decided that trying to fix the tank isn‘t going to be easy and I will probably spend half, if not as much, as a new one on the right permanent labor/repair and new paint. New one is $500’ish. Yay me. Getting a repair kit is not a permanent fix, they are temporary even though some have had them last a year or more. Fixing it every 6-12 months is not on my list of things I want to deal with. I ordered a new one. Probably mid January and then swap the parts out. This will give me peace of mind that a year down the road it doesn’t start leaking some night and fills the garage with gas fumes unbeknownst to me and I hit the garage door opener and….

Today I drained (siphoned) the tank and now need to figure out how to get the very last of the fuel out of the tank (maybe a 1/10 of a gal) or just turn it upside down out side.

How was your Christmas? :)

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Reactions: Barsinister

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2016 FJR1300 ES
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407 Posts
As far as the fuel leak goes, I once had a similar situation on my XJ900 while on the Italian Autostrada. I noticed the fuel gauge dropping quicker than normal, so pulled into a gas station. The gas was dripping at a good clip down onto my very warm engine. I quickly removed the tank and plugged the whole with super glue. My plan was to make a more permanent fix once I got home to Denmark, but then I kind of forgot all about it, and the super glue plug lasted for years...you should definitely be able to find something that you can permanently plug the hole with here, rather than replacing the tank...
 

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and the super glue plug lasted for years...you should definitely be able to find something that you can permanently plug the hole with here, rather than replacing the tank...
I wish I could get a better solution. The super glue is impressive, I wouldn’t think it would stand up to gas for very long. The big problem is the leak is behind the welded piece that the screw goes into. I can’t even see it let alone try a patch. Although I haven’t tried since draining the tank and removing the screw now that it won’t drip drip on me.

I was opting for the new tank so if the patch fails, and knowing my luck, it would be the worst possible time lol
 
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Reactions: mortenk

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Maybe this stuff works?
I have no experience.
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Reactions: SunnyRides

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Maybe this stuff works?
I have no experience.
I had seen that, good find. Several people complain that it sets up faster than advertised, and a couple say it doesn’t last but they may have tried it wet (with fuel still present which is a no-no) or just user error. The problem is getting to the crack that I can’t even see and allow me to apply it quickly and there is no way to ensure I got it covered well. Thank you for the suggestion. I’m afraid I’m in between a hard spot and a rock lol
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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I think the trick would be to ensure the tank is empty or below the level of the hole, that all paint is removed, sanded and wiped down with isopropanol to ensure cleanliness, dry off with a hair dryer...... then 30 minute work time? Well shouldn't take half that really.... but, it isn't easy getting underneath that welded clip.... if it were mine, I'd attempt the repair, nothing to lose.
However, a new fuel tank is guaranteed not to leak, and you can try to sell the old one if you disclose it is leaking and where.....
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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If it were mine I'd cut off the welded clip, fix the hole and then weld the clip back on. (While purging the tank with argon)
 

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I think the trick would be to ensure the tank is empty or below the level of the hole, that all paint is removed, sanded and wiped down with isopropanol to ensure cleanliness, dry off with a hair dryer...... then 30 minute work time? Well shouldn't take half that really.... but, it isn't easy getting underneath that welded clip.... if it were mine, I'd attempt the repair, nothing to lose.
However, a new fuel tank is guaranteed not to leak, and you can try to sell the old one if you disclose it is leaking and where.....
Yes I would love too. Here is what I am dealing with. You and oldjeep caught what I wasn’t explaining very well but I’m no welder lol It looks like you can see it, but thats just a piece of dirt or something on the pic. The leak is just under the screw end somewhere. I like the idea of selling it with disclosure. Heck with the skirt on even if I messed up the paint I have touch up for it and it’s hidden by the skirt anyway. So annoying after all the work I’m putting into it. One good thing is I have until spring weather to get it taken care of or I’d be quite perturbed, more than I am.

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If it were mine I'd cut off the welded clip, fix the hole and then weld the clip back on. (While purging the tank with argon)
The one talent I do not posses. This is probably the 3rd time in my life I wish I knew how to do that lol
 

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2013 FJR1300A - Ottawa, ON.
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that sure is a hard - rock spot. For what its worth I have had good success repairing small engine gas tanks, both metal and plastic, using superglue and baking soda. YMMV) I have even used it to plug pin holes in carburetor float bowls. (stands up well to both gasoline and vibration). It sets up almost instantly and you should have no issue getting the glue applicator tip and the baking soda under that bracket. I have used it right over paint, but not over FJR paint yet LOL so its best to sand or otherwise rough up the area first or perhaps use a Acetone soaked q-tip, followed by a water flush. ( be very careful as Acetone is deadly on paint.). Perhaps test it first on a hidden part of the tank to see how it does with FJR paint. The larger the patch the stronger the adhesion so I would try for one at least dime sized both in diameter and thickness. Lots of how-to's on google.
Stuart.
 

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Last several days...more to go.....some light service & cleaning.
Coolant.
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Lubed the rear parts. No I didn't bother with the whole last bolt of the linkage / center stand / exhaust thing.
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Plugs--now iridium ones.
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Air filter--Hi Flo Filtro---no it does not appear to be the same quality as OEM. The yellow coolant is harder to see in the bottle than the blue.
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WRXer that is one clean bike!

I miss those days of having the free time to do that kind of maintenance. I also miss being able to get up off the floor without bones creaking and muscles cramping up. LOL
 
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Mr Whooshka a bike lift helps a lot. Time wise I am retired so that is not a problem as long as I get my housebitch duties done 1st.
 

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Down here in pine pollen country I think the HiFloFiltro is superior to OEM.
Why? HF material is clearly thinner & more papery--like those paper masks folks wear now days. The OEM is like pool table felt fabric by comparison. Also can clearly see where the OEM glues the material to the bottom of the filter. Can see no such glue or seal on the HF.
 
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