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2007 FJR1300A
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You might be better off drilling & tapping a new hole off to the side (at least 1 hole diameter is probably best) in the tank ring, then matching one in the pump flange. IOW, moving the bolt over. or even 2 new ones, one on each side of the old one.

Easier said than done of course. I'd want to do the drilling in a drill press, since it's a blind hole and you really don't want to drill too deep. Most drill presses don't have a table big enough for the tank. Might be a chore to somehow hold the tank square for drilling. Tapping the new holes would be the easy part, comparatively.

Possibly you have enough clamping force with only 5 out of 6 bolts, but if it were my bike that would bug me. Sure would be awkward if it started leaking.

Good luck!
Curious if all 6 bolts even go through. On an FZ1 tank it was 3 or 4, the others were decorative and only threaded into the gas cap.
 

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2015 FJR-1300ESF
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711 Posts
I can't tell for sure, based on the photo in post #5. Could be blind holes, or could go all the way through.

I'd expect them to be blind holes, otherwise each screw hole would need a gasket/o-ring/RTV to preclude leaks.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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11,621 Posts
Yep, I took this to be the fuel pump side not the fuel cap side....
 
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2003 FJR1300 Liquid Silver
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299 Posts
In case you haven't thought of it already, used silver gas tanks are going for around $200 on eBay.
Speaking of eBay, that's where I bought my green dot CCT. It was a used part grouping from a 2016 model. I could see the green dot in the photo, but all of the newer ones have the green dot version. It came with bolts, chain, guides and some other junk that I didn't need, but all of it was under $100 shipped.
 

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2003 Yamaha FJR1300
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
If you don't mind saying, how much did it cost to get your injectors looked at?
Broken down for you.
Clean and Flow Test Top Feed Injectors 18.00 X 4 72.00
O-Ring Grease 1.00
Shipping Ins 1.85 X 4 7.40
Flat Rate box from Texas 10.00
TOTAL: $90.40

Work done by Injector RX in Houston TX. The form is on their website @ www.injectorrx.com, I filled it out and sent the injectors via USPS flat rate box and 10 days later they were back.
 

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2003 Yamaha FJR1300
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
You might be better off drilling & tapping a new hole off to the side (at least 1 hole diameter is probably best) in the tank ring, then matching one in the pump flange. IOW, moving the bolt over. or even 2 new ones, one on each side of the old one.

Easier said than done of course. I'd want to do the drilling in a drill press, since it's a blind hole and you really don't want to drill too deep. Most drill presses don't have a table big enough for the tank. Might be a chore to somehow hold the tank square for drilling. Tapping the new holes would be the easy part, comparatively.

Possibly you have enough clamping force with only 5 out of 6 bolts, but if it were my bike that would bug me. Sure would be awkward if it started leaking.

Good luck!
Well, it is a blind hole so going thru of course would be out of the question. My plan is to use a couple of Carbide tipped tools with a dremel and very lightly clean up the hole to the best of my ability. Once its cleaned up I will install a stainless steel insert and "Lead Braze" the insert in place and just heat and cool until its fully seated. I have used this process before on old generator fuel tanks that have rusted completely thru and it worked very well, this should not be any different. New bolt will be a little shallower but should hold quite well.
 

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2003 Yamaha FJR1300
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Yep, I took this to be the fuel pump side not the fuel cap side....
Hey there!! the affected hole is on the fuel pump side. I am really confident the repairs will be more than satisfactory to hold everything together. When I took the tank off the bolt was already missing and there was no fuel leaking at the time so I was really lucky on that one.
 

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2015 FJR-1300ESF
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711 Posts
Broken down for you.
Clean and Flow Test Top Feed Injectors 18.00 X 4 72.00
O-Ring Grease 1.00
Shipping Ins 1.85 X 4 7.40
Flat Rate box from Texas 10.00
TOTAL: $90.40

Work done by Injector RX in Houston TX. The form is on their website @ www.injectorrx.com, I filled it out and sent the injectors via USPS flat rate box and 10 days later they were back.
That's not bad at all. Sure beats 4 new injectors @ $146 each.
 

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209 Posts
The picture of the whole bike suspended on an ATV lift is interesting...
No damage (dents) to the exhaust...?
 

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2003 Yamaha FJR1300
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The picture of the whole bike suspended on an ATV lift is interesting...
No damage (dents) to the exhaust...?
It seems to be doing OK for now, do not notice any deformation on the exhaust or stress on components due to this configuration. Definitely makes it much easier to move around the garage.
 

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209 Posts
That much crud coming back up through the intake is probably indicative of a timing issue.
I don't think so. Over the years I've seen many photos the the throttle body plates and all have the crud. The more miles, the more crud. Just seems to be a characteristic of the FJR. There have been many ideas of why it is there. No consensus on the root cause.
 

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Good thread! Good photos and details of your issues and progress. You are getting there!

I am in somewhat of a similar situation. About 5 weeks ago I bought a 2004 FJR with on 2,927 miles from the original owner! WTF? It had sat for a LONG time. It wouldn't start when I came to look at it. That was a good thing as the the inside of the fuel tank is terribly rusted and the fuel was shit. The PO did find a log and the last time he fueled up was in 2011! Turns out the fuel pump was shot and inoperative. With the rust, it was garbage. Well, I went home retrieved my own '04 FJR's tank and fuel pump and returned and installed that. Started up immediately. So, I am hoping the fuel rail and injectors are ok. But with the minimal cost you paid I'll probably send the injectors out to be serviced. The bike rode fine the whopping 1 mile it took me to get home. Even on the original tires date coded from 2003!

It's a project I work on when I have time which is not much these days. I have been working on getting the rust out of tank when I can. Everything I do (primarily white vinegar) makes it better but it ain't quite there yet. Hoping to try Evap-o-rust tomorrow and get it done for good. Next up will be an oil change, final drive fluid change, and bleed out all the what I assume is original 19 year old hydraulic fluid. Even though it is an ABS model my assumption is that the ABS pump froze up long ago. Will find out soon enough.

Cosmetically, this 19 year old FJR looks like it brand new off the showroom floor. Just amazing.
 

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2015 FJR-1300ESF
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711 Posts
The picture of the whole bike suspended on an ATV lift is interesting...
No damage (dents) to the exhaust...?
I've been assured "it's fine" but it's not something I would do.

Alternatives include:

--making a "cradle" out of 2x4's that puts the weight directly on the engine block instead of the exhaust.
--getting jackstands under engine guards/crash bars, if you have them. That's what I'll do, when I want weight off the front wheel.
 

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2003 Yamaha FJR1300
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Well finally got some time to start piecing the bike back together, first started with the CCT and getting that out of the way first. Seems like the more I dig into this machine, the more I find missing or "rigged" to just get by. Had to replace some of the wiring for the right turn signal since it was severely hacked and while I was on the wiring I popped the little male and female pins from the connectors by the steering head, cleaned them and put dielectric grease on them all, there was a surprising amount of corrosion on them so checking them out was no joke.
Material property Rectangle Font Plastic Packing materials

Electronic device Auto part Motor vehicle Plastic Gadget

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire


The CCT job took me a couple of hours with most of the time being the bottom 8mm bolt. The next thing I did was cap off the P.A.I.R. system since I read it was not necessary and I would like to start putting everything back together with a cleaner looking engine bay.

Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Automotive design Rim Gas


The parts I got off of Amazon and the idea was from an FJR owner on YouTube under the name TwoWheelObsession, figured why not!! plus it costs less than $8 to do. I needed 4 1/2" caps to cover the pipes and will wire tie them for a more secure fit but they are pretty snug as is. Had to buy 2 packs for the 4 caps, still cheaper than $60 for the metal plates.

Audio equipment Plastic Transparency Font Box

Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Automotive fuel system Automotive design Gas


Been spending a lot of time replacing hardware that should not have been on the bike in the first place (Misplaced during maintenance? or a really bad mechanic). I went ahead and replace A LOT of hardware with stainless and did a few other odds n ends whilst things are apart. Now the final push had begun and will start updating as time permits.
 

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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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1,302 Posts
I am loving the picture of all the Yam parts!! Like bike porn! :ROFLMAO:

It makes my heart happy to see you rescuing that bike!

All good things!
 

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That bike got lucky.
That bike is like the neglected Cockatoo on that video…head banging to music out of happiness, on the porch of his new owner😆
 

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2015 FJR-1300ESF
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711 Posts
PO's put on a Yoshi exhaust and Power Commander V on my 2015, but didn't remove the PAIR system. I guess that's why I get those cool exhaust noises sometimes.

Rather burn any gas remaining exhaust, so the PAIR system stays. Have you seen what gas costs lately? I'm getting my money's worth!

OP, any update on the fuel tank hardware situatoin?
 

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2003 Yamaha FJR1300
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34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
PO's put on a Yoshi exhaust and Power Commander V on my 2015, but didn't remove the PAIR system. I guess that's why I get those cool exhaust noises sometimes.

Rather burn any gas remaining exhaust, so the PAIR system stays. Have you seen what gas costs lately? I'm getting my money's worth!

OP, any update on the fuel tank hardware situatoin?
I would honestly like to find a Power Commander for the First Gen's but they seem to be very far and few available. Even tho I am working on this machine I still don't know any of its characteristics other than a 30 Mile ride, so I am not sure if removing the PAIR system will be of any benefit or detriment. Only time will tell, I have other machines that LOVE fuel when you twist the throttle so I guess my 2 wheel therapy comes at a costs :). So far the only scary part was checking the valves, they are in tolerance for this particular model but will crack open the cover in 10K when the time comes. The fuel tank will be the very last thing I will do as I want to clear the bench of all the new parts first prior to that. Once the bike is ready to receive the tank I will treat the tank with Evapo-Rust and assemble. This will be a nail biting moment since I will watch for any possible fuel leaks and hope that my repairs to the fuel system hold up.
 
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