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2008 FJR1300, 1994 VFR750f, 1999Jeep Cherokee
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Sidebar: Here's a youtube video with a pretty good crossplane description (since it was mentioned):
I saw this video which kinda got me thinking about it and then thinking of the V4 engine in the VFR. If they can make the VFR engine out to 1200cc, I'm pretty sure they could go to 1300... yet for some reason the VFR1200 didn't sell. I believe they killed it with such a small ranged gas tank but there were other issues that made it a difficult bike to sell. It was also too heavy for a sport bike so the limited range meant it was not a useful touring bike.
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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1,261 Posts
I bought a click type torque wrench from Harbor Freight. Supposedly it's been calibrated but how do I know?? What's a safe way to test it without ruining something on the bike? Not a wrench monkey but at least I know what a torque wrench is...
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605 Posts
Wow all good stuff. I'm embarrassed to say my torque wrench is probably the cleanest tool in my box.

And yes, the V-4 in my ST1300 was a pretty sweet motor.
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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1,261 Posts
Wow all good stuff. I'm embarrassed to say my torque wrench is probably the cleanest tool in my box.

And yes, the V-4 in my ST1300 was a pretty sweet motor.
Once you start using them for a few things, you realize you need 3 or 4 of them. If you do much work on automatic transmissions you need some little ones that do inch lbs accurately.
 

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2015 FJR1300A
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93 Posts
I bought a click type torque wrench from Harbor Freight. Supposedly it's been calibrated but how do I know?? What's a safe way to test it without ruining something on the bike? Not a wrench monkey but at least I know what a torque wrench is...
Years ago I was rebuilding a KZ650 motor, while torqueing the rod bolts with a inexpensive torque wrench a rod bolt broke, the torque wrench wasn't even close, had to replace all the rod bolts. After that I bought a Snap on torque wrench both 1/4 and 3/8, it was pricy but they are accurate plus most Snap On trucks can check the calibration right on the truck. That was in the 80s, I had them checked a few years ago and both where still accurate. Money well spent not to mention the piece of mind.
 

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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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875 Posts
Well, Damn... That was interesting! Thanks, Chuck!
 

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2015 FJR1300A
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93 Posts
I get it, $100 compared to $350+, to be fair, I did buy them in the 80s. If I remember right they where $100ish at the time. Still expensive but 35+ years later they are still accurate. I don't know that you will be able to say that about Harbor Freight wrench.
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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1,261 Posts
I get it, $100 compared to $350+, to be fair, I did buy them in the 80s. If I remember right they where $100ish at the time. Still expensive but 35+ years later they are still accurate. I don't know that you will be able to say that about Harbor Freight wrench.
Only time will tell. My torque wrenches are a mix of craftsman and some brand that Northern Hydraulics used to sell. I check them every few years if I am bored. Haven't had any issue so far with them getting out of spec.
 

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2008 FJR1300, 1994 VFR750f, 1999Jeep Cherokee
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Just realize that a lot of Harbor Freight tools are built as well or better than Snap On without the huge price to pay for the trucks


This is pretty interesting. My torque wrench is from Harbor Freight and made by Pittsburgh Pro, 3/8 inch drive. From what I could see on various internet videos it is fairly high quality and comes with a lifetime warranty. I've just never used a torque wrench of this click type before. Previously I had one of those with the pointer arm with a scale which are not nearly as accurate. It was useful for some things but on the FJR I wanted something a bit more accurate. It came with a calibration certificate.
 

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FJR1300A 2008
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1,840 Posts
Just a note or two . . .

Prior to getting things to the listed torque values, set the torque wrench for 50%~75% of the listed value instead, then "click" the head at that setting a few times, to get the torque wrench ready. You can do this right on the hardware that you need to torque. Then, set the listed torque value into the wrench, and proceed as you would normally. This "warm-up" process yields the most accurate results, from any given torque wrench.

When finished with the torque wrench, always run the adjustment down to zero or near zero, to help the torque wrench retain good calibration. Storing the torque wrench with any value set can degrade the calibration.

YouTube has videos showing several DIY ways to check the calibration of your torque wrench.
 

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2008 FJR1300, 1994 VFR750f, 1999Jeep Cherokee
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Just a note or two . . .

Prior to getting things to the listed torque values, set the torque wrench for 50%~75% of the listed value instead, then "click" the head at that setting a few times, to get the torque wrench ready. You can do this right on the hardware that you need to torque. Then, set the listed torque value into the wrench, and proceed as you would normally. This "warm-up" process yields the most accurate results, from any given torque wrench.

When finished with the torque wrench, always run the adjustment down to zero or near zero, to help the torque wrench retain good calibration. Storing the torque wrench with any value set can degrade the calibration.

YouTube has videos showing several DIY ways to check the calibration of your torque wrench.
Thanks for those tips, Red!!!
 

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2012 FJR1300
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15 Posts
I have 5 torque transducers at work for calibrating torque wrenches. I can cal from 1 inch to 250 ft lb. Our cal procedure has you warm up the transducer and the torque tool at 100% of FS several times. I have two Pittsburgh wrenches, a CDI and a Crasftsman. The CDI is always less than 3% the Craftsman is around 5%. The Pittsburg are usually less than 8%. The ones I cal at work are mostly made in Germany. I cal Stahlwille, Sturtervant, Garant, Rahsol and CDI tools.
 

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Still.... perplexed.

Also... the Kaoko releasing when you "roll off the throttle" doesn't concern me. It's when you have to make a sudden emergency STOP THIS FUCKING BIKE NOW! kind of maneuver. Y'know, to avoid a deer, avoid a collision with a clueless car, avoid some other shit that's actively trying hard to KILL YOU FOREVER. Which is, apparently, all the fucking time....
UM...when I have to stop now i PULL IN THE CLUTCH AND THE BRAKE....DONT YOU ???
 

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137 Posts
I have 5 torque transducers at work for calibrating torque wrenches. I can cal from 1 inch to 250 ft lb. Our cal procedure has you warm up the transducer and the torque tool at 100% of FS several times. I have two Pittsburgh wrenches, a CDI and a Crasftsman. The CDI is always less than 3% the Craftsman is around 5%. The Pittsburg are usually less than 8%. The ones I cal at work are mostly made in Germany. I cal Stahlwille, Sturtervant, Garant, Rahsol and CDI tools.
My dad left me three Craftsman torque wrenches (1980'ish, made in America) which I gave to goodwill when I was younger thinking "Newer is better". I immediately replaced them with more recent Craftsman (2005'ish, not made in America). He used to be an engineer at a company that made diamond drill rig and mining bits and they had some very advanced (at the time) calibration equipment to keep their tools in spec. I recall him telling me on several occasions that there were better torque wrenches than Craftsman and they certainly used better ones at their company, but he said for everything you would do at home, you will pay a lot more money for a very small difference in accuracy and it is almost always not worth the added cost. He said his Craftsman torque wrenches tested within about 2% of their company wrenches average results. I would be curious to know where my newer wrenches land as far as accuracy, but I know if I do it will just make me regret giving his away his old ones even more than I already do.
 
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