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One video he said to make sure to use a good Phillips head screwdriver. When in fact Yamaha uses JIS screws.
+1 on the JIS - "Japanese Industry Standard" screwdrivers. I finally bought a set and will never use anything else on my FJR.
I particularly like the stubby PH2 and have it stashed under the passenger seat. Pictured below (blue handle) left of the Maverick Alarm:


80014




YMMV
 

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Maybe, but adjusting height and rear location is a lot easier and cheaper with regular bars.
Now that all depends how many sets of bars you end up trying before you get it just right.

Regular bars look out of place on FJR IMO of course.

Like I said, being able to adjust the sweep until wrist angle was just right for me, was the answer.

If I want regular bars, I take my DR. Lol


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Now that all depends how many sets of bars you end up trying before you get it just right.
Little Joe,

Most bike shops have a variety of handlebars in stock. In my experience, most bike shops will let you take one handlebar (at a time) outside to see if they will give you the hand position that you want, just hovering the new bar above the bar clamps. I usually offer my helmet or driver's license as collateral for the handlebar that I "borrow" temporarily to check, but no shop has ever wanted any collateral. YMMV.
 
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2008 FJR1300, 1994 VFR750f, 1999Jeep Cherokee
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I will say that aside from the comfort, ease of adjustment and bar angle/width the ABM conversion, 7/8 Renthal street bars and big heavy throttlemiester bar ends have seemed to remove what little vibration the stock bars had. I've got some offset risers on the way for a bit more adjustment.
View attachment 79953
This looks veeerrrrry interesting.... how difficult was it to get the throttle, brakes and other stuff on there? I'm just curious about this.
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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This looks veeerrrrry interesting.... how difficult was it to get the throttle, brakes and other stuff on there? I'm just curious about this.
All just bolts on. You need to drill a couple indexing holes for the switch panels (same as swapping bars on any modern bike) but otherwise it all just swaps on.
 

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2008 FJR1300, 1994 VFR750f, 1999Jeep Cherokee
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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
Been a while since I last updated on this thread. Here it is...

So I got some grip puppies for the handgrips to see if I can’t quell some of that vibration. Did it work? Yes…. but no. I put them over the existing grips which makes the diameter of the handgrips rather large but since I have kinda hammy hands that’s ok for me. And it did dampen SOME vibration but not all of it and my right hand will still go numb after about 40- 45 minutes of riding. I’ve tightened the exhaust canister bolts and made sure the handlebars themselves are tight and snug. Still… vibration.

So now I’m looking at throttle body sync. I have seen different videos and it looks like something I can do but I would feel more comfortable if someone who knows how to do this can show me the ins and outs of getting this done. Trouble is, my days off are NOT on Saturdays and Sundays and this may prove a challenge to meet up with someone willing to help. Several people have suggested it and offered to help me with this project and now I’m asking. I’m not a wrench monkey but I’m not a complete noob (at least I didn’t feel that way until recently, which is the subject of a different post. Look for it…)
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting
 

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Mine had vibration from day one. I use the grip puppies. When the dealer did the 600 mile service, I asked if they checked the throttle body sync. They said it was fine and didn't need adjustment. After many years of having vibes that start bad around 3 then go away at 3.5 and then come back at 4k. I did the sync my self and it is like a new bike now. No vibes when loading it bad like 2k in 5th gear roll on. It has no vibes that come and go at different rpms. It has so little now I could get rid of the puppies. It has a little vibes that just get slowly worse to red line. All of the vibe changes at different rpms are gone.
 

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Vibes on my bike start at 4K rpm and 80 mph. TB are synced and new tires are balanced (it did the same on previous tires). Wish I could really "pinpoint" where the vibes originate as it seems more speed related than RPM related to me. When riding the curvy back roads I spend most of the time between 3-5K and don't really notice it. Maybe I'm just concentrating on my lines too much to notice.
 

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3-5k in third, you'll blow right past the vibe rpm.... as I mentioned before, at valve check time, I'd make all the clearances uniform, then do a good throttle body sync. I think that will have the most effect at reducing vibes.... the rest of it is chasing stuff for little gain..... like balancing injector flow or adjusting gear lash on the balancers. However, still waiting to see if someone goes to all the work of adjusting the gear lash.... but that doesn't change the rotation of the balancers...
The fact remains that there is a buzz in all inline fours......
What we need is a cross-plane inline four.
 

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Vibes on my bike start at 4K rpm and 80 mph. TB are synced and new tires are balanced (it did the same on previous tires). Wish I could really "pinpoint" where the vibes originate as it seems more speed related than RPM related to me. When riding the curvy back roads I spend most of the time between 3-5K and don't really notice it. Maybe I'm just concentrating on my lines too much to notice.
Whooshka,

Since you say "speed related" rather than RPM, clean and torque the engine mounts (really!) and torque all of the exhaust system hardware. Some owners here have reported success that way.
 
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Whooshka,

Since you say "speed related" rather than RPM, clean and torque the engine mounts (really!) and torque all of the exhaust system hardware. Some owners here have reported success that way.
Good point about the engine mounts. When I bought the bike I put on frame sliders. Can't say if the vibes were there before that as the bike was new to me and it was mid-January, never took it above 30 MPH then. LOL I recently cranked down on the exhaust as I had a small leak after mounting Delkevics.

I'll get the torque values from the FSM and give it a go when I get a chance. Thanks for the tip!
 
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You will notice that the right side engine mounts are all adjustable sleeves with pinch bolts..... meant to take up various frame casting variances... thus the FSM method starts with the left side tightened first and go to the right side (the order is a little more involved than that, but you get the idea.... the anal would loosen those right side pinch bolts...... read it in the good book.
Exhaust, I would loosen the mount and the clamp, find it's natural unstressed position, snug up the back mount and the clamp last.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
3-5k in third, you'll blow right past the vibe rpm.... as I mentioned before, at valve check time, I'd make all the clearances uniform, then do a good throttle body sync. I think that will have the most effect at reducing vibes.... the rest of it is chasing stuff for little gain..... like balancing injector flow or adjusting gear lash on the balancers. However, still waiting to see if someone goes to all the work of adjusting the gear lash.... but that doesn't change the rotation of the balancers...
The fact remains that there is a buzz in all inline fours......
What we need is a cross-plane inline four.
Gee, I don't know. Maybe they could do away with all this stupid vibration shit and make it a V-4 engine. My VFR never- and I say NEVER- had any kind of vibration issue ever. Never ever. Just take what was arguably the BEST engine Honda ever created in a 750cc bike and scale it up to 1300cc and call it a day.

Sorry. My VFR is still a favorite. It's just too difficult to fold myself up for too long on it any more and I got the FJR because it's my concession to age. I LOVE the FJR's power.... oodles and oodles and oodles of power! But the vibration is just too much to handle (pun) sometimes. I have to do the throttle body sync AND go over the engine mounts (I've just read it too often now to simply discount it). The other negative is its top-heaviness. I think I can cure that a little bit by changing the battery to a much, MUCH lighter Lithium Ion battery like a Shorhai. At only 2.3 lbs, it cuts a LOT weight and they are dependable. It made a world of difference on the VFR and I believe it will do the same for the FJR.

Don't get me wrong: I'm not sorry I bought the FJR by a long shot!! A cross-plane inline four sounds doable since it was very successful on the R1... so why didn't they do that for the FJR??? I'm not a Motörhead (lol! Autocorrect for the win!) nor an engineer so I don't know the technical issues involved.

Don't mind me... I'm just talking to myself... go on about your day...
 

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My fz1 is an i4 and doesn't vibrate
 

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3-5k in third, you'll blow right past the vibe rpm.... as I mentioned before, at valve check time, I'd make all the clearances uniform, then do a good throttle body sync. I think that will have the most effect at reducing vibes.... the rest of it is chasing stuff for little gain..... like balancing injector flow or adjusting gear lash on the balancers. However, still waiting to see if someone goes to all the work of adjusting the gear lash.... but that doesn't change the rotation of the balancers...
The fact remains that there is a buzz in all inline fours......
What we need is a cross-plane inline four.
I'm going to be doing the balancer gear lash adjustment in a week or two for gear whine not vibration, my 2015 doesn't vibrate (at least I don't think so) so I probably won't be able to comment on that but I will post on if it helps the gear whine. I'll be doing the front balancer to see if it makes a difference, it's easy to get to. If so I'll do the work to get to the rear balancer, it's buried under the throttle bodies so it's a bit of work to get to it.
 

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I get it Phil, my VFR is great too as were all the Honda V-4's. All inline fours have an issue with the "4000 rpm vibe" to some degree. Some are more sensitive to it than others also.
When is your valve check due....... give it a shot.
Keep an eye out for the tech day up your way in Auburn.... great bunch of guys there.
 
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Sidebar: Here's a youtube video with a pretty good crossplane description (since it was mentioned):
 
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Interesting video, aside from different internal forces, I like the exhaust sound of the cross plane over the flat plane crank screamer. Kind of sounds like a top fuel dragster at idle. Never noticed it with the stock exhaust but when you think about it, it doesn't sound like all the other inline 4s. This was the first time I've heard a good explanation of why a :Big Bang" worked on the track. There be some smart people designing these modern marvels we ride around on!
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Good point about the engine mounts. When I bought the bike I put on frame sliders. Can't say if the vibes were there before that as the bike was new to me and it was mid-January, never took it above 30 MPH then. LOL I recently cranked down on the exhaust as I had a small leak after mounting Delkevics.

I'll get the torque values from the FSM and give it a go when I get a chance. Thanks for the tip!
I bought a click type torque wrench from Harbor Freight. Supposedly it's been calibrated but how do I know?? What's a safe way to test it without ruining something on the bike? Not a wrench monkey but at least I know what a torque wrench is...
 
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