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If you don’t have heated grips the Pro Grip 714’s that Russ prescribed above are the very best grips I’ve ever used and the only one’s I use on any of my rebuilds/restorations they are a good product.
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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1,260 Posts
I've had decent luck with the Oxford super grip 135's (OX601). They have a width that doesn't leave my pinky hanging off the end of the grip. I still stick a set of grip puppies over them.
 

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2008 FJR1300, 1994 VFR750f, 1999Jeep Cherokee
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Thanks, I'm not clueless! Much relief. LOL I'm curious as to what tires he's running. I have similar vibes and I can almost guarantee it's the cupped PR4.
You are correct! I found the front to be cupped.... not badly but probably enough. What causes cupping on the front tire?? But the tire has a LOT of wear left on it and I just replaced the rear ($$$ OUCH!!!) so I'm inclined to continue as is and replace it probably at the end of the season and see if that fixes the problem. Will also be switching to premium gas as someone suggested that ( a simple enough experiment to conduct). I'm also going to look at possibly getting better gripies: someone suggested foam grips. I will also try repositioning the handlebars.... that has been suggested more than once. TBS is also in the future, definitely, but for now I'm gonna do some of the simpler stuff first.

Red suggested the rotors might be warped, given a bit of vibration but I checked them and they are fine. The small (tiny) vibration I noticed when coasting to a stop at a light IS definitely the ABS but it's totally normal according to mechanic I frequent. I only noticed it because I've never had ABS on a bike so it was a bit different.
 

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2008 FJR1300, 1994 VFR750f, 1999Jeep Cherokee
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I"m also going to suggest that possibly the previous owner was running the bike with the front tire a little low and most likely was braking while cornering. I learned to never brake when cornering- get the braking done before you enter the corner. If you must do a minor adjustment you can do a little trail braking with the rear but I don't think that is true with the ABS on the FJR....? At any rate, going into a corner too hot may require some hard mid-corner braking but if you're doing that you're corning improperly and riding the bike too hard. The FJR is NOT a race bike. Riding like a race bike is asking for trouble, IMHO. It's too big and too heavy for that.
 

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Versys 1000 CBF1000 VFR800
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The PR4's are prone to what you're seeing, moreso if not inflated to say 40psi. That tread pattern is just asking for cupping. I don't use those for fronts.
 

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2015 FJR1300A
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93 Posts
For me the angle of the bars is what gets my wrist sore. I have the Heli riser on the list of farkles, they bring the bars up and back as well as change the "bend" angle out some.

from the web site, helibars.com

Most forward location:
  • 1" (25mm) taller**
  • 1 1/2" (38mm) rearward**
  • 3" (75mm) wider than original width* - greatly improves rider leverage
Middle location:
  • 1" (25mm) taller**
  • 2 1/4" (57mm) rearward**
  • 1 1/2" (38mm) wider than original width*
Most rearward location:
  • 1" (25mm) taller**
  • 3" (75mm) rearward**
  • Identical width as original
 

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FJR1300A 2008
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1,840 Posts
For me the angle of the bars is what gets my wrist sore. I have the Heli riser on the list of farkles, they bring the bars up and back as well as change the "bend" angle out some.
Mad Cat,

I think all of the handlebar risers/ lifters/ angle plates only give you very limited choices of adjustment. Aside from that, they do nothing to reduce the engine vibrations (buzz) that can cause numbness in the hands and wrists. My 2008 came with Helibar adapters, and they do suit me mostly, but I always know when my ride needs a can of Seafoam, because a wrist starts to tingle.

For the money, if what you have is not good for you, I would convert to standard 7/16" (22mm) tubular handlebars. The choices then are vast, in sweep, angle, height, wingspan, and tilt. They also will reduce or eliminate bad vibes at the hand grips, for any RPM. You can spend US$30 or US$300 or US$600 on the conversion hardware, your choice; then add a US$80 handlebar to that, of course. As with some risers, you may need hose extensions on the hydraulic lines for some handlebars, but your comfort and safety should outweigh the expense.

My US$.02 worth . . .
 
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2007 FJR1300A
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1,260 Posts
I will say that aside from the comfort, ease of adjustment and bar angle/width the ABM conversion, 7/8 Renthal street bars and big heavy throttlemiester bar ends have seemed to remove what little vibration the stock bars had. I've got some offset risers on the way for a bit more adjustment.
79953
 

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The Unauthorized TBS Sync only works for Series II bikes and earlier. The throttle body plates on the Series III bikes (2013 and later) are all fixed to a common shaft and you cannot adjust them independently. You can, however, adjust the TBS at around 4000 rpm for smoother midrange at the price of a little more roughness off idle.
I just ordered a Morgan Carbtune Pro 4 to sync my throttle bodies on my 2021. Are you saying that I cannot sync them and thus don't need that tool? That would be good to know since that is a $150 tool.
 

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2015 FJR1300A
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93 Posts
I've ridden and raced 500cc 2strokes (KX500) most of my life, the FJR doesn't vibrate to me. I think the bar angle is more important to comfort than the vibration for me. I can see where it would bother some people, just not me. My issue comes from bar angle, mostly due to having broke my right wrist twice (High sides are a bitch). I can see where a set of good tubular bars with a good angle for the person riding and a bar snake should dampen it to a acceptable level for people with numbing issues. Now you got me thinking about switching to tubular bars instead of a riser plate.
 

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Check out MV Motorad riser.
It allows infinite adjustments of bar sweep.
You can get wrist angle adjusted to 0.
Has worked well for me .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Versys 1000 CBF1000 VFR800
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I just ordered a Morgan Carbtune Pro 4 to sync my throttle bodies on my 2021. Are you saying that I cannot sync them and thus don't need that tool? That would be good to know since that is a $150 tool.
John is just saying you can't do the Unauthorized TBS...... no way to adjust throttle plates......
You can do a vacuum sync just fine. One screw will be reference and will be all the way in, Gen3 sync is with minimal vacuum. If you can't get a good sync, determine a different screw to be reference and it should be all the way in.
 
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John is just saying you can't do the Unauthorized TBS...... no way to adjust throttle plates......
You can do a vacuum sync just fine. One screw will be reference and will be all the way in, Gen3 sync is with minimal vacuum. If you can't get a good sync, determine a different screw to be reference and it should be all the way in.
Thank you for the reply. I will not cancel the order for the vacuum sync tool then. I am just learning about doing my own maintenance and didn’t realize the difference in the two syncs. I watched the Two Wheel Obsession video on the throttle body sync and wanted to be able to do that myself. Thanks RaYzerman.
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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1,260 Posts
Thank you for the reply. I will not cancel the order for the vacuum sync tool then. I am just learning about doing my own maintenance and didn’t realize the difference in the two syncs. I watched the Two Wheel Obsession video on the throttle body sync and wanted to be able to do that myself. Thanks RaYzerman.
My .02. Buy a FSM and ignore YouTube vids
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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1,260 Posts
Check out MV Motorad riser.
It allows infinite adjustments of bar sweep.
You can get wrist angle adjusted to 0.
Has worked well for me .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Maybe, but adjusting height and rear location is a lot easier and cheaper with regular bars.
 

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My .02. Buy a FSM and ignore YouTube vids
I already purchased the factory service manual, but the intimidation factor had me searching YouTube videos for any tips or tricks. Plus watching somebody else do it first helps take the suspense away when I realize it isn’t as scary as it was in my head. Gotta start learning somewhere. :D
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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I already purchased the factory service manual, but the intimidation factor had me searching YouTube videos for any tips or tricks. Plus watching somebody else first do it takes the suspense away when you realize it isn’t as scary as it was in your head (for me at least). Gotta start somewhere. :D
I guess. Those 2 wheel obsession videos are painful to watch. Too slow and the manual shows more detail.
 

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2007A, 2013A
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Actually..... for the inexperienced just learning FJR maintenance, I like the Haynes manual. Better pictures. It's an excellent start to basic stuff. And remember- it doesn't have to be either/or. Both can be used!

Ditto on TWO videos. I don't think I've ever made it through an entire one. I know he's just trying to be helpful but geez, those things are painful.
 

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Actually..... for the inexperienced just learning FJR maintenance, I like the Haynes manual. Better pictures. It's an excellent start to basic stuff. And remember- it doesn't have to be either/or. Both can be used!
I used to help my dad with wrenching on his SCCA track car when I was younger. He used a combination of a few manuals and had to bounce between Haynes (was the most complete) and Clymer along with the factory manual. The Haynes were nice, but sadly the most recent FJR manual they produce is to 2013 which leaves out a lot of the components on the current generation.

Also, Two Wheel Obsession... If you think his FJR videos are dull, try watching one of his cigar videos. 😴
 

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..................

Ditto on TWO videos. I don't think I've ever made it through an entire one. I know he's just trying to be helpful but geez, those things are painful.
While he does have some good info I find he can get a little verbose at times. And he is not always entirely accurate. One video he said to make sure to use a good Phillips head screwdriver. When in fact Yamaha uses JIS screws.
 
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