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So after 51,500 mi i finally had the valve clearance check for the first time. Yes I know it was way over due but no noise and ran great. Anyways the results???
Only one exhaust valve needed adjustment. Runs a lot better too. These bikes are great if you take care of them
Ride safe all!!
 

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So after 51,500 mi i finally had the valve clearance check for the first time. Yes I know it was way over due but no noise and ran great. Anyways the results???
Only one exhaust valve needed adjustment. Runs a lot better too. These bikes are great if you take care of them
Ride safe all!!
Great! Mine only has half the mileage, so long time before I get to check my valves I guess...
 

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So after 51,500 mi i finally had the valve clearance check for the first time. Yes I know it was way over due but no noise and ran great. Anyways the results???
Only one exhaust valve needed adjustment. Runs a lot better too. These bikes are great if you take care of them
Ride safe all!!
I know you're done, but just for future reference, "no noise" is not an indicator of "all's well." :wink2:

I ordered the gaskets to do mine today. With the way the mail's been going I'm hoping they show up before spring.
 

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I know you're done, but just for future reference, "no noise" is not an indicator of "all's well." :wink2:

I ordered the gaskets to do mine today. With the way the mail's been going I'm hoping they show up before spring.
I have owned 3 Concours 1000 and the saying on the COG forum was a tappy valve is a happy valve, so if you don't hear any noise you might want to check the clearance :smile2:
 

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I have owned 3 Concours 1000 and the saying on the COG forum was a tappy valve is a happy valve, so if you don't hear any noise you might want to check the clearance :smile2:
Cog, that is absolutely correct, people seem to think that they get noisey when they need to be adjusted but it's actually the opposite because they usually tighten up, loose is way better than tight in this case.
 

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I don't think I've ever heard noisy valves on any bike with bucket and shim. Clearances always get smaller unless you have carbon build-up on the intake valve faces, even then may not make much noise.
 
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A few years ago I bought a Moto Guzzi Stelvio, when I cranked it up I looked at the salesmans and said, is that the way the valve train supposed to sound. He laughed and said Yep LOL My Griso sounded the same
 

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I have seen bad things on both sides. I have had to grind my shims for perfect clearance. 50k engine I would check your plugs and your sync. If you have the money or good friends with money maybe even a gas analyzer. If you want to spend time with the family just replace your plugs and check your compression.
 

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I don't see why it should run better... placebo effect?
Black, it would run better because it had a "tight" valve and getting them set correctly allows it to run correctly. A tight valve will allow leakage around the valve, reduce compression and could burn a valve. Hope that helps.
 

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Black, it would run better because it had a "tight" valve and getting them set correctly allows it to run correctly. A tight valve will allow leakage around the valve, reduce compression and could burn a valve. Hope that helps.
I understand that but does not believe it was tight enough to not completly close.
 

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Black, it would run better because it had a "tight" valve and getting them set correctly allows it to run correctly. A tight valve will allow leakage around the valve, reduce compression and could burn a valve. Hope that helps.
I understand that but does not believe it was tight enough to not completely close.
Good deal, I thought the quoted statement is a bit misleading. IMHO:

- A nonexistent clearance will hold a valve open leading to burn.

- A "tight" measureable clearance means the valve is fully closed. "Tight" clearance is exactly how I set mine, always have. Tight clearance, i.e., at the bottom end of the spec'd range, means more valve opening, means better running.

I understand the "they wear toward closed gap so set the clearance wide" school of thought and I agree with it if a person is inclined to delay the the normal maintenance. Sure, set them wide. But I do not delay, I check and re-adjust regularly b/c I ain't scared ;-). Frikkin kills me how people will obsess about 2 drips of gear oil but neglect their valve maintenance.
 

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If there is non-existent valve clearance when stone cold, then when it's hot the valve would not close? Right?
 
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I've had exactly one case of one exhaust valve on an '05 had zero (maybe even tighter who knows) clearance, and that cylinder had a slight miss. That valve was not sealing even cold. When adjusted to nominal, the slight miss was better but did not go away. It did improve with mileage, but I suspect that valve was slightly burned.

The minimum clearances are such that when the valve heats up and expands, the real clearances when hot are smaller... your guess as good as mine on how much they expand.... I'll take a wild stab at perhaps a 15-20% safety factor in there in case it did go below minimum. The minimum on intakes is .006" and the exhausts .007" because the exhausts get hotter...

Nominal is good, gives a better safety factor. Bike will run better if you can get all intakes the same and all exhausts the same, and get a more uniform TB sync.
 

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I've had exactly one case of one exhaust valve on an '05 had zero (maybe even tighter who knows) clearance, and that cylinder had a slight miss. That valve was not sealing even cold. When adjusted to nominal, the slight miss was better but did not go away. It did improve with mileage, but I suspect that valve was slightly burned.

The minimum clearances are such that when the valve heats up and expands, the real clearances when hot are smaller... your guess as good as mine on how much they expand.... I'll take a wild stab at perhaps a 15-20% safety factor in there in case it did go below minimum. The minimum on intakes is .006" and the exhausts .007" because the exhausts get hotter...

Nominal is good, gives a better safety factor. Bike will run better if you can get all intakes the same and all exhausts the same, and get a more uniform TB sync.
What were your service intervals?
 

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IIRC, the bike had ~35k. The only explanation is that it was dead wrong right from the get go at the factory. Have not seen another.
 

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I guess “tight” means different things to people. I have a 76 LTD Wing that had sat in pieces in a warehouse for about 20+ years. After I got it all put back together I took it to a show about 70mi away and it was barely running like crap when I got there. When I got home I went over all the usual things checking for spark/timing, even pulled the carbs and went over them & cleaned them figuring something was obstructing the fuel flow & did not find anything.

Ultimately I pulled the valve covers and found that the valve clearances had closed up, I figure the valves/seats had rust on them from the extended sitting. I had to readjust them 2 more times before they stay’d at their settings. The last time I found they still had clearances cold but just barely and the bike ran like crap, once set correctly (now max clearances) it ran perfectly.

So,,, imho if you allow yours to run below minimum clearance you’re asking for problems. And Russ I agree with setting clearances to the minimum because it will give you the absolute max valve lift & hp, I did this on all my race engines where it mattered. But on something like my fjr where it will probably give less than 1hp more I just set the valves to the max clearance, it just doesn’t matter that much. I think Yamaha has probably figured it out, I would hope !
 

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A few years ago I bought a Moto Guzzi Stelvio, when I cranked it up I looked at the salesmans and said, is that the way the valve train supposed to sound. He laughed and said Yep LOL My Griso sounded the same
Id say it was more dry clutch noise than valve clatter, but why would a salesman know that?:)
 
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