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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am sure this topic has been covered before, but as a new comer to the site, if it has, I have not seen it.
In Australia the recommended distance is 40,000 Klm's to have your valves checked. I am up to 50,000 Klm's on my 03' model and have not had them checked yet. I recently spoke to the head mechanic at one of the local Yamaha dealerships. I asked should I have my valves checked.

Absolutely, yes he said.

Have you checked many I asked, yes lots of them he said.

How many have you had to adjust I said.

Ah, (big hesitation here) Actually none, they were all perfect.

So my question is, how many FRJ riders needed to have your valves adjusted on inspection. ??
 

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Hi, two exhaust valves adjusted (too tight).

Have them checked out! Better be sure than...

This topic have been discussed here. Do a "Search and find".

Finnfjr
 

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Just had mine done recently at 50,000k's (valves were replaced at 18,000k's for ticking, so it was 32,000 since Felicity-Jayne Robinson had the head job). Exhaust were fine, but on the inlet side some were tight (3 or 4 IIRC)
 

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I'd have the valves checked. It is not a very invasive procedure unless some of the valves actually need to be adjusted. So if they check OK you will get off pretty cheap and keep some peace of mind. If they don't check OK then the adjustment is necessary, right?
 

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Checking & changing the shims will improve the engines behaviour as will run within the it's design limits ie. run cooler, better mpg, smoother etc..

So just bite the bullet and have it done, but make sure the dealer does them!
 

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The factories do not define the adjustment period based on the maximum mileage that can be covered in extremely favourable conditions but based on what they see safe in all normal cases.

There are alredy two replies in a short thread saying that when they had to adjust as the gap was getting too tight, so the risk of burning a valve does exist.

The checking is not done because the adjustment would be also needed for sure, but to ensure that it's done in time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK guys, you have convinced me. The FJR is going in next week for the big one. Valve check and a full combined 40 & 50 K service. Maybe, I should just be done with it and buy an 06'model, might be cheaper.
 

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Can't you check them yourself? I did all my own valve work on my Triumph--seems like dealers are charging quite a bit for this very simple procedure.....
 

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I watched my mechanic doing the job, and the main problem is getting the top valve cover off and out the way. It was a hell of a struggle getting it passed all the wiring, cables, and pipes at the top of the motor.

Also, there are 2 coolant pipes that go through the valve cover. You will have to drain and replace all the coolant. There are 2 rubber O-ring seals on those pipes, make sure you have new ones in your hand before you start the job. The valve cover is sealed with a rubber gasket, it is very difficult to get this gasket seated correctly when re-fitting the cover.

I think it is worth paying a mechanic to do the job. That valve cover is a nightmare.
 

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Getting the O rings on the water rail over the top of the valve cover to seat properly is a real PITA. First time I tried it the leak was so large that it was like the tide coming in over the cylinder head as I refilled the cooling system. Even the local Yamaha dealers took two goes to get it to seal properly the next time the valves needed checking.

At least if you've paid them to do it you can take it back if you are sitting at a set of traffic lights and you are suddenly surrounded by steam :roll: :(
 

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Hi Framer,
I have an 03 model and had the valves checked at 42000ks IN November 05. No adjustments needed. I had it done at Stoney Creek Motorcycles, Bexley cost was around $240.00 and included a TBS.

Stretch
Sydney
 

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Hi Framer,
I have an 03 model and had the valves checked at 42000ks IN November 05. No adjustments needed. I had it done at Stoney Creek Motorcycles, Bexley cost was around $240.00 and included a TBS.

Stretch
Sydney
 

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I did the valve check myself at both the 26,000 mile and more recently at 53,000 miles (yea I know, I went over a little bit) on my 04. The first time was not very pleasant. Took me about 8-10 hours if I recall. And definitely getting the valve cover off was a major pain. And I did have to pull the coolant manifold that goes through the valve cover off a second time after I got it all put back together because I had cut one of the "O" ring seals as previously mentioned and it leaked coolant the as soon as I fired it up. The second time a couple of months ago, it went much smoother and I'd estimate that it took between 4 and 5 hours to complete the task. The manual has you removing the main fairing on the right side seemingly to get at the inspection cover that when removed allows you to get a socket on the crankshaft to rotate the engine to each valve checking position. That is totally not needed. Just put the bike in gear and turn the engine over by rotating the rear tire. With the plugs out it's really not that hard. There are some tricks but if you’re mechanical at all, it's really not a big deal.

Incidentally, neither time were the valves out of spec. Although, this last time my dyslecticia got the best of me and at first I thought all of the exhaust were a tick to tight until I realize that I'd checked them using the intake values. I'm not sure that I'll even bother at the next interval as they haven't even been close to needing attention.
 

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The cam cover & coolant pipe assy is a barsteward. :mrgreen:
Also clean the cam motor area as it's the only way too see if your pissing out blood. :crylarf:
 

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Yeah, it strikes me that getting the valve cover off is *always* the toughest part of a valve job. On my t-bird, the bike has a center tubular frame that passes right over the middle of the engine and drops down toward the rear wheel just behind the carbs. There's about 3/4" of clearance (if that) between the frame and the valve cover, plus the coolant pipe is in the way. With lots of swearing and twisting and pushing and pulling and luck, you can at least get the cover of without draining the coolant and pulling the pipe, however. That DOES sound like a PITA. I, too, use the rear wheel trick--if you just shift up to the highest gear, then 'bump' the cam slowly through it's turns, it's really easy. My t-bird had the valve shims it came with in it until the 50,000 mile servicing, when I found two exhaust valves that were a bit tight (and I was checking them every 6,000 miles, per Triumph's maintenance schedule!)

For those who had it done at the dealer, how much did you pay for the job? While I don't relish the idea of draining the coolant, I really don't relish the idea of getting hosed to the tune of $200-300 for a job I can do myself.
 

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Checking them is easy compared to changing a shim. You have to remove the cams and they live in their own part of the head. I think this head is a three piece like the 20 valve Genesis heads. A MAJOR PIA if you don't have the tools and the knowledge.
 

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mindtrip said:
I really don't relish the idea of getting hosed to the tune of $200-300 for a job I can do myself.
I can't help thinking, is it possible to have a dealership, feed your family, pay your mechanic, pay his heath benefits, as he takes some 2 to 3 hours to perform a valve check for 200 - 300 dollars? Not trying to be a smart-ass... just wondering.

:)
 

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It only looks expensive if you have don't have any shims changed, because then you think that it was a waste of time as nothing needed doing.
However, when you need to change a shim yourself, unless you have a full set at home (which won't be cheap) the process goes something like: check the clearance, remove the cam, check the existing shim size, drive to the dealer, buy the correct shim (if he has one), drive home, fit new shim, refit camshaft, recheck the clearance. If you are unlucky then you find you made a mistake and the clearance is still out of spec, so its off with the camshaft, drive to dealer, argue with dealer about a credit for the shim you are returning, purchase new shim (if he has one), drive home etc etc etc. :lol:
 

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Liquidsilver said:
I can't help thinking, is it possible to have a dealership, feed your family, pay your mechanic, pay his heath benefits, as he takes some 2 to 3 hours to perform a valve check for 200 - 300 dollars? Not trying to be a smart-ass... just wondering.:)
Excellent points all. And I agree completely. These guys are small business owners. When people whine about "gouging" they really just want something for nothing. If it's such a rip off deal, do it yourself. As Marshman pointed out, it's not exactly a 1-2-3 operation. Oh, and don't put the camshaft back in wrong, then you'll REALLY get familiar with "expensive." 8)
 
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