FJR Owners Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your bike HERE to be a part of this months Bike of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys... How in the name of Moses do you get in to that lower TPS screw?
I have a Torx "safety" sockets.. but that lower screw is BURIED.
80263


Do I need another tool? Remove the entire throttle body assembly, as Haynes says?
Incredible that they made it so difficult to get at.
 

·
Registered
Current FJR's 2011 and 2013 Past FJR's 2003 2x2005 2008 2010
Joined
·
43 Posts
I take the bit out of my socket and use a 1/4 flat ratchet and comes out easily
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,757 Posts
Greg,
This is an old (crude design) ratchet wrench. New ones are "finer" in operation. Put a rubber band through the .25" hole, stretch tight, and install your Torx bit. Cut away any excess rubber band.
Flat Ratchet Wrench
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
We're talking about the LOWER Torx screw. There is no room betwixt it and the frame to fit any socket. I already have a very small T25 Tamper Torx socket.. 1/4" drive... and just the socket alone will simply will not fit between the frame and screw, =even without the ratchet.

I did order an L-shaped T25 today .. from one of the big, famous industrial supply houses. I ordered it just before 5:00 PM and it's supposed to arrive tomorrow! Those guys are great for odd hardware and specialty tools.
Let's see if that fits. It's damn TIGHT down there! You'd best believe I'm going to replace both of them with standard Allens.

80268
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,424 Posts
I was going to say: a Chapman-type ratchet: Chapman Model 2307 8-Piece Metric Hex Bit Set (midwayusa.com)
and use a Dremel to shorten the bit. I did that back when I was in the radar business working on wave guides, like the inside bend of something like this. (1) waveguide elbows - Bing images

The smaller waveguides use Allen screws. I had a full set of extra cut down bits and cut down Allen wrenches.

You also could have cut down the Torx bit and used a 1/4" wrench to turn it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You know John, there is so LITTLE space in there... currently I can almost fit just the socket in there.. but not quite enough to get a bite on the Torx head. And there's no way anything else would fit in that 3/4" space; I tried to get a needle-nose Vise-grips on it.. no chance. I'm just hoping that the new L-wrench I ordered won't be too long.

How did anyone ELSE here loosen that bottom screw? It's a mystery to me... so far!

80271
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
You know John, there is so LITTLE space in there... currently I can almost fit just the socket in there.. but not quite enough to get a bite on the Torx head. And there's no way anything else would fit in that 3/4" space; I tried to get a needle-nose Vise-grips on it.. no chance. I'm just hoping that the new L-wrench I ordered won't be too long.

How did anyone ELSE here loosen that bottom screw? It's a mystery to me... so far!

View attachment 80271
You need a bit, not a socket . There are different lengths, you want a shorter one. Then use a gear wrench, ratcheting box end - whatever. The ones where the bit can pass through will give you the most room. The bit in the wrench by the ruler is a short one - the one with the yellow collar would be too long.
IMG_20210720_055813.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
Joined
·
693 Posts
Chuck is correct. I used JUST the Torx bit and a ratcheting boxend type wrench. Not a socket.! Yes, it was a total PITA, and very fiddly, but after a lot of cussing, I was able to get it out.

I replaced the Torx screws with caphead allens.
 
  • Like
Reactions: natsmada4fjr

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Same here with the bit but used an open-end wrench to turn it ever so slowly. If I recall the tricky part was holding the bit against the bolt every time I repositioned the wrench. It just barely made it all the way out for removal.
 

·
Premium Member
2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
Joined
·
693 Posts
Greg,
This is an old (crude design) ratchet wrench. New ones are "finer" in operation. Put a rubber band through the .25" hole, stretch tight, and install your Torx bit. Cut away any excess rubber band.
Flat Ratchet Wrench
OK, I was Today Years Old, when I learned this trick! I have been wrenching for 45 years!! How did I not know this??

Red, that rubber band trick is effing genius!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,424 Posts
You know John, there is so LITTLE space in there... currently I can almost fit just the socket in there..
That is undoubtedly why MamaYama's post production approach is to simply swap out the whole throttle body assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks guys! Unless this L-wrench (coming-in today) can squeeze in there... looks like I'll be shopping for a flat ratchet and bit. Oh well... you can never have enough tools... right?

One thing I'm driven to say... this is the first Yamaha (and Japanese bike) I've bought ever since my lovely 1991 FZR1000B, (there were a couple of.. ugh..Euro bikes in there).. But I've had lots of Suzuki's, was a Zook tech in two shops.. and one thing I've always appreciated from them was that they made efforts to ensure a mechanic could GET to the hardware.

But no complaints. I'm taking the new bird out on the NY State highways north today on a shakedown cruise; will tackle the TPS again tom'w.
-----
[15 mins later:] Just ordered a flat ratchet and T-25 bit off of Fleabay; both should be here in 4-5 days. I guess I can wait that long! :cool:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
Thanks guys! Unless this L-wrench (coming-in today) can squeeze in there... looks like I'll be shopping for a flat ratchet and bit. Oh well... you can never have enough tools... right?

One thing I'm driven to say... this is the first Yamaha (and Japanese bike) I've bought ever since my lovely 1991 FZR1000B, (there were a couple of.. ugh..Euro bikes in there).. But I've had lots of Suzuki's, was a Zook tech in two shops.. and one thing I've always appreciated from them was that they made efforts to ensure a mechanic could GET to the hardware.

But no complaints. I'm taking the new bird out on the NY State highways north today on a shakedown cruise; will tackle the TPS again tom'w.
A basic set of security bits comes in handy for all sorts of things. These are cheap and good quality
Tonsiki 19 Pieces Hex Shank S2 Micro Bit Ratchet Wrench Screwdriver Bits Set with Philips, Slotted, Hexagon and Torx - - Amazon.com
 

·
Premium Member
Versys 1000 CBF1000 VFR800
Joined
·
8,706 Posts
Bandit Greg, 'cmon buddy, just drill a hole throught the frame, EZPZ!!! :devilish: :devilish: :eek: :eek: :eek: :LOL::cool:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,424 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
GOT IT! l
That L-wrench came today... I had to grind the snot out of it, forward and back, to get it to squeeze in there... but finally I managed to wiggle the bottom screw out. Now replaced with a tasty, low-profile Allen.

80288


I set the voltage as required... the tuner said .675-.680 v... I locked it down at .678. (The factory allows a larger spread, but I went with the tuner's specs who re-flashed my ECU.. Should I avoid dropping his name on this site?)

80289


AND... I went out for a ride: POPPING. Not heavy... but more than before.
Now, I HAD turned the idle speed up yesterday.. funny that I kept turning it in but the idle didn't want to rise much... SO maybe I need to back that down and start from fresh. I don't know why turning the knob/screw wouldn't raise the idle.. hmm.

So I have homework to do. I've known the tuner personally for years... I trust his competence.. maybe have to give him a call.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
I set the voltage as required... the tuner said .675-.680 v... I locked it down at .678. (The factory allows a larger spread, but I went with the tuner's specs who re-flashed my ECU.. Should I avoid dropping his name on this site?)



AND... I went out for a ride: POPPING. Not heavy... but more than before.
Now, I HAD turned the idle speed up yesterday.. funny that I kept turning it in but the idle didn't want to rise much... SO maybe I need to back that down and start from fresh. I don't know why turning the knob/screw wouldn't raise the idle.. hmm.

So I have homework to do. I've known the tuner personally for years... I trust his competence.. maybe have to give him a call.
Name drop away, I don't think there are any rules about telling where you bought stuff. Might also help if people know of common issues with a particular tune.
Did the bike run right before the tune?
Did you sync the throttle bodies as part of any of this work?
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top