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I've been using HiFloFiltro (their "race" version with the nut) for last 12K miles without an issue. I've got canyon cages which makes reaching a regular "nutless" filter a PITA.
 

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Need oem oil filter part number

Why not glue a 0.060" spacer to the outer o-ring seat?
N4HHE,

Not sure what glue would hold against the oil pressure, or the expansion/contraction of heat and cold there. I'd expect oil leaks, and maybe serious leaks, not just a few drips. I would also question if every individual oil filter has exactly the same dimensions there. The same brand may work one time, but maybe not the next time. I would guess that some fix could be added, but it seems simpler to use the oil filters which are made to fit our bikes, not the other way around. Seems to me, I counted about a dozen options available, last time I checked.

Wix oil filters are good, and hang the price, because it is a quality product with a good reputation. You still need to verify that the filter you choose is right for the bike, because Wix makes lots of filter types.

I also use a large hose clamp, mostly covered by heat shrink tubing, around the filter. The screw adjuster butts right up against a bolt boss on the engine case, so the oil filter can not come unscrewed, not even a little. Do I worry about an oil filter coming loose while riding? Nope, not mine, anyway.
:cool:
.
 

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I've been using HiFloFiltro (their "race" version with the nut) for last 12K miles without an issue. I've got canyon cages which makes reaching a regular "nutless" filter a PITA.
I have canyon cages on my FJR and while not easy, I have no trouble installing a long filter on my bike.

I have been using Purolator Pure One filters since I bought my FJR in 2014 all but once. That time was a Mobil-1 M-110.
Purolator part #s: PL14610 (long), PL14612 (short).

No scientific evidence for it, but I would think that, all other things being equal, more filter media has to be a good thing.

I remember when the whole innie/outie thing hit the 'netz. I went down to the local men's store (Autozone) and pulled a couple of Bosch 3300s (?) off the shelf. I just happened to get one of each.
 

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N4HHE,

Not sure what glue would hold against the oil pressure, or the expansion/contraction of heat and cold there. I'd expect oil leaks, and maybe serious leaks, not just a few drips. I would also question if every individual oil filter has exactly the same dimensions there. The same brand may work one time, but maybe not the next time. I would guess that some fix could be added, but it seems simpler to use the oil filters which are made to fit our bikes, not the other way around. Seems to me, I counted about a dozen options available, last time I checked.
Somehow the machined face for oil filter on the engine casing serves well, so why do you think shimming that out 0.060" might not fit all oil filters?

Oil leaks and pressures? The bypass valve is somewhere in the 8 to 12 PSI range so that is the upper range. How ever does Yamaha manage to hold oil in the engine against such great pressures? A simple o-ring gasket manages at the oil filter. Silicone sealer should have no trouble. Just cut an aluminum ring about 2" diameter from 0.062" aluminum plate.

I don't think its worth the effort to machine Yamaha's oil filter union or to shim the o-ring surface. I don't believe the most bestest filter one could purchase today would increase engine life from 300,000 to 300,001 miles over my HiFlo Filtro.
 

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Motorcyclists crack me up when it comes to oil and oil filters. Each insisting that THEIR particular oil and oil filter combination is superior to everyone else's. Multiple guys using their particular combos for "40 years without issues" yet each one thinks theirs is better than the other guys... and all think theirs is better than the poor guys using the stock filter and oil as recommended by the manufacturer (who have also not had any issues for 40 years.)

Cracks me up.
 

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tFerret, ain't marketing great?

"OEM" doesn't mean "the best part available". It simply means "good enough". And the afore mentioned marketing tries to convince us that "good enough" isn't.
OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer, the Manufacturer who provided the Original Equipment (OE).

Any Bridgestone tire is OEM for the FJR no matter the BT023 isn't nearly as good as the T30 and T31 models. A new FJR never shipped with a T31 but the T31 is still OEM.
 

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OEM is Yahama 5GH-13440-60. This was original on my 2015 FJR and I still use them. Like everyone else says...no problems.
 

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I hang with a bunch of long distance riders. Several ride FJRs, all log big miles annually like 50-100,000 miles. I find it amazing that we talk about tires, we talk about riding gear, we talk about lots of things but oil and filters never seem to come up. Guess it’s not that important and it’s certainly not that interesting.
 

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I hang with a bunch of long distance riders. Several ride FJRs, all log big miles annually like 50-100,000 miles. I find it amazing that we talk about tires, we talk about riding gear, we talk about lots of things but oil and filters never seem to come up. Guess it's not that important and it's certainly not that interesting nor funny.
ftfy :twisted: I've been riding with a couple new guys- HD and FJR- and we've been talking about oils and filters and shifting and phone mounts and... and... and. They're curious about all kinds of stuff. I just say, "what I do is ..." or "what I use is ...". Forums like this with some many conflicting/differing opinions can be pretty confusing for newer folks.
 

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There was a recall and that was limited to a particular range of serial numbers. That doesn't mean all K&N oil filters are bad. Many of the reported leaks are caused by ham fisted mechanics using the nut to tighten the oil filter. K&N specifically directs you to not do this. The plural of anecdote is not data.
Want to come back to this for a minute.... I did question the "anecdotes" and I've been waiting for some responses on other forums to answer the question "Did you use the nut to tighten"... HiFlo has a similar nut, also a couple of reports of them leaking.
Crickets on the nut question.... so do I assume ALL of them used the nut to tighten? Equally as dangerous to make assumptions as it is to listen to anecdotal evidence?
Went to K&N website for install instructions or warnings..... none. Somehow I get redirected to the Canadian site and it keeps knowing what my bike is... so, what exactly does the US website say?
If anyone has a K&N filter box were the instructions printed on the box or any info inside?
Now interestingly enough, some K&N users had leaks at the gasket, prompting them to tighten the filter on more... perhaps they take a little extra effort? Dunno.
 
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For HiFlo reference, only their RC series has the nut on the end, similar to the K&N.
With note as below...

-17mm cross drilled nut enabling easy removal, and lock wiring for race use

And only a specific range of part numbers also, for their RC series.

http://www.hiflofiltro.com/rc/
 

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I still think it's a bit confusing for Joe Average in the "Filters for Dummies" category... if there isn't a clear warning on the box, I don't see anyone looking up the Kohler instruction, and I see some would be confused or misled by the HiFlo product catalog... or interpreting "Wrench Off" correctly, and may apply their "knowledge" to the K&N ... and we don't know who makes either.
Check out Page 6 of the HiFlo Application Guide, which states the 17mm nut can be used for installation.
OK at least we're all smarter now... you know what NOT to do when using them.
 

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goddamn! You think we can find any more ways to complicate screwing on a filter? Absolutely frikkin amazing.

I think sometimes folks are just a little too anal about oils & filters & coolant & specs & torque & batteries & spark plugs & reed valves & tires & brakes & shift levers & CCTs & light bulbs & winterizing & cleanliness & splines & trailering & clothing & gas mileage & stuff.
 

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goddamn! You think we can find any more ways to complicate screwing on a filter?...
Reminds me of the scene in Blazing Saddles when Sheriff Bart asks Jim AKA The Waco Kid played by Gene Wilder what he likes to do. Jim replies, "Oh I don't know. Play chess....screw." Sheriff Bart quickly retorts, "Well let's play chess then."
 
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Reminds me of the scene in Blazing Saddles when Sheriff Bart asks Jim AKA The Waco Kid played by Gene Wilder what he likes to do. Jim replies, "Oh I don't know. Play chess....screw." Sheriff Bart quickly retorts, "Well let's play chess then."
"We got to go back and get ourselves a s..tload of dimes"
 

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I just read the censors are going to go back and edit out all the profanity, socially unacceptable material and racial slurs from Blazing Saddles. The edited version will be shown this Saturday evening from 8:00 until 8:07.
 

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Didn't read all of the comments because this is another oil thread with everyone having their own opinion, but just in case here is the end-all website to know for oil filters:

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

If you wanna go really crazy, then read up on this site until you can't take it anymore (explore the forums and you'll really have fun):

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Personally I used to get Bosch filters, until they changed the filter to an 'outie' like the Purelator ones. So I went to Mobil One filters and they work great, great price and easy to get local as well.
 

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The Calsci information is outdated... I'll just say don't use any of the newer Supertech filters. Remove the oil filter adapter and shave 0.06" off the face of the hex and you can use Purolator/Bosch again.
 
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