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You see my illogic works. @N4HHE says AMSOIL is an exceptional oil. I don't believe he has ever said anything positive about another oil synthetic or dino. He only says synthetic may or may not really be synthetic which by the way is correct.
Am not saying that either. I am saying there are no standards which require a synthetically manufactured oil to be any different from any other oil if it is to be sold as synthetic.

It is quite possible to make a superior oil but there is no requirement to do so. So it is wrong to assume a superior oil was made just because processes the marketing profession allows to be called "synthetic" were used.

"Synthetic" is a marketing term, not a performance specification. It comes out of the same place that prevents a YZ450F from being sold as a sport-tourer.

Some synthetic oils might be useable at 350°F but there is no requirement of all oil sold as synthetic to be useable at 350°F.

"Synthetic" is about as meaningless as a motor oil performance specification as the color of the bottle it came out of. Generally Amsoil is a superior motor oil but this is only because it is Amsoil's reputation at stake, not because it says "synthetic".
 

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Here you go: https://www.ilma.org/PDF/ILMANews/2017/AAAreport.pdf

and who doesn't like beating a dead horse. :grin2:
Big deal, AAA finds Toyotas are better than Chevrolets. They did not find any contractural or legal definition of a synthetic motor oil. Its just "apparently the samples of synthetic motor oil were better than the samples we selected of refined motor oil." This is no different than how we all "know" Yamahas are superior to Harley-Davidsons. It doesn't prevent Yamaha from building a stinker.

Once again there are no enhanced performance standards, or any performance standards required of a motor oil to be sold as synthetic. It doesn't mean a synthetically manufactured motor oil can not be superior. It just means there is no assurance other than trust in the brand. You trust Yamaha more than Harley-Davidson? Toyota more than Chevrolet? But if Yamaha or Toyota lets you down there is no recourse to claim, "but this was supposed to be better than the other!" Just take your punishment and move on.
 
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Discussion Starter #44
The idea of using brand X’s oil in brand Y’s bike struck me as funny. The definition of what is and isn’t synthetic oil or what could or could not be synthetic oil or why we call some oil and not other synthetic does not strike me as funny, nor in the end does it matter one bit.
Life is short, go ride! Sorry I started this mess and sorry but I’m out!
 

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The idea of using brand X's oil in brand Y's bike struck me as funny. The definition of what is and isn't synthetic oil or what could or could not be synthetic oil or why we call some oil and not other synthetic does not strike me as funny, nor in the end does it matter one bit.
Life is short, go ride! Sorry I started this mess and sorry but I'm out!
Not so d**n funny any more, is it smartypants :razz:? You shoulda known better. Some people pick nits for a living and therefore expect everyone else to and will wear you down without mercy until you do. It comes to that pretty much every single time that dreaded word "oil" is typed followed by a question mark.

Hence I think the need for this poll -> https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/28-polls/150825-oil-threads.html. I'd love to see more votes and some comments.
 

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Russ, I agree ! Takes all the fun out of this forum, how soon ? But I’ll add that the know-it-all idiots will still be idiots trying to impress somebody but a single thread might help, certainly worth a try. !

Donk, I realize you were only trying to be funny but some people are incapable of understanding that and must constantly try to impress others somehow to compensate for inadequacies elsewhere, requiring them to sit when they pee.....
 

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I came a'searchin' to see if any FJR O/O has been using Shell's Rotella T6 in their FJR(s) but alas, it was not to be. The AAA testing was interesting, 47% better (synthetic over non-synthetic) is an impressive number - that's 1.5X +/- further on an oil change and better in the cold (where I live) too. Can anyone please tell me whether Rotella T6 (5W40 has the JASO MA/MA2 approved for on the label) is good to go? Thank, great thread btw, really enjoyed it so far
 

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I know I've got some thread around here someplace...

I came a'searchin' to see if any FJR O/O has been using Shell's Rotella T6 in their FJR(s) but alas, it was not to be. The AAA testing was interesting, 47% better (synthetic over non-synthetic) is an impressive number - that's 1.5X +/- further on an oil change and better in the cold (where I live) too. Can anyone please tell me whether Rotella T6 (5W40 has the JASO MA/MA2 approved for on the label) is good to go? Thank, great thread btw, really enjoyed it so far
Found a different thread with Rotella-Related-Ruminations...:nerd:
 

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If you choose to run extended replacement intervals, do your bike the service of sending off samples at the times you would normally change oil (every 3000 to 5000 miles). Don't guess. It's cheaper than an oil change and we know that cost is the only reason people extend beyond recommended service intervals.
 

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If you choose to run extended replacement intervals, do your bike the service of sending off samples at the times you would normally change oil (every 3000 to 5000 miles). Don't guess. It's cheaper than an oil change and we know that cost is the only reason people extend beyond recommended service intervals.
Well...for me it's not the cost so much as the f***'n MESS! Half a roll of paper towel (if EVERYTHING proceeds according to plan!). Then dumping the used oil back in the 5l. jug is always fun too (nice and hot - feels fine soaking through the front of my t-shirt, lol!). And none of which addresses the environmental impact of all that used oil too. I don't live anywhere convenient for motorcycling - no idea where to take my oil/oil filter...so the longer the oil lasts the better I like it. My $.02 worth.

BTW, took the plunge and put the Rotella T6 (5W40) in this evening (my first oil change since buying my first wet-clutch bike) and I'll find out tomorrow whether I have a working clutch or not. JASO MA/MA2 is on the label...:serious:
 
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Well...for me it's not the cost so much as the f***'n MESS! Half a roll of paper towel (if EVERYTHING proceeds according to plan!). Then dumping the used oil back in the 5l. jug is always fun too (nice and hot - feels fine soaking through the front of my t-shirt, lol!). And none of which addresses the environmental impact of all that used oil too. I don't live anywhere convenient for motorcycling - no idea where to take my oil/oil filter...so the longer the oil lasts the better I like it. My $.02 worth.

BTW, took the plunge and put the Rotella T6 (5W40) in this evening (my first oil change since buying my first wet-clutch bike) and I'll find out tomorrow whether I have a working clutch or not. JASO MA/MA2 is on the label...:serious:
http://www.fumotousa.com/

Use with a cheap-o squeeze ball hose setup and put the oil directly into the jug from the engine.
 

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Well...for me it's not the cost so much as the f***'n MESS! Half a roll of paper towel (if EVERYTHING proceeds according to plan!).
FJR drains straight down cleanly into waiting pan.

The oil filter needs a 4mm allen wrench to remove a big panhead screw. Then use new oil filter to hold the lower fairing plastic out when you remove the old oil filter. Cleanup with 1 paper towel.



Then dumping the used oil back in the 5l. jug is always fun too (nice and hot - feels fine soaking through the front of my t-shirt, lol!).
God invented funnels for that. I keep thinking of shopping for a better funnel to use to fill new oil into FJR, but only think those thoughts while changing oil. A 1/2" OD vinyl hose on a funnel might be perfect. I use 1/2" OD 3/8" ID hose on Fumoto to drain my Subaru. Bought a fancy right angle Fumoto for the FJR but decided I didn't like how low it hung. Removing the drain bolt isn't nearly the issue with FJR as Subaru. Or my former 2008 F-250 Powerstroke.

Loved the Fumoto on Powerstroke because with 8" vinyl hose I could stand 1 gallon empties under. Open valve to fill one. Close. Move hose. Repeat for 15 quarts. Stock truck was that high in the air.

Subaru uses a large drain plug pointing to the side. If allowed to drain at full speed it will splash out of a pan which is close. If on a lift you can let it arc into one of those large funnel roll-around oil catch things. A Fumoto fits up out of the way and drains slower. Less splash. No splash if a vinyl hose is affixed to the nipple. Could fill empty oil jugs directly if one has lifted the car high enough.

I have a length of 8ga single strand aluminum wire that I loop around clutch hydraulic hose to form a hook to hold my long narrow straight cheap Walmart funnel in the filler hole.

And none of which addresses the environmental impact of all that used oil too.
Used motor oil is excellent stock to feed the refinery to make new oil. Better than crude.

BTW, took the plunge and put the Rotella T6 (5W40) in this evening (my first oil change since buying my first wet-clutch bike) and I'll find out tomorrow whether I have a working clutch or not. JASO MA/MA2 is on the label...:serious:
Be careful as the SAE/API "S" certification for use in gasoline engines was removed from the latest Rotella formulation. There are red bottle Rotellas now for gasoline engines. Blue and white bottles are diesel-only.

I did not like the way my FJR shifted gears using Rotella T6 5W-40 a few years ago. Sad because previous Hondas loved it.
 

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I'm with N4. I saw all the early, Gen 1, posts about foil around the lower fairing and other tips. I've never had that problem. Drain from the side stand and catch it. Put it up on the center stand for the dribs and drabs. Easy/peezy.
 

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Yes, I was being a bit 'tongue-in-cheeky' (won't say whose) and didn't really use half a roll...my change went pretty smoothly for the first one. And I used two different funnels (one for putting the new oil in the bike and the other for catching the used oil to put into a milk jug to take to my favorite recyclers).


I appreciate the tip about the Rotella T6 - I made sure to buy the stuff in the blue jug (for diesel). My shakedown cruise went fine, no shifting issues I could discern. I am still using the OEM CCT (new one is in transit) so I'm being extra careful with revs and cam-chain-related engine stresses.


It does seem like the 'synthetic' oils are more 'difficult' to clean up than the 'mineral' oils though. Just sayin' 🇨🇦
 

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The oil filter needs a 4mm allen wrench to remove a big panhead screw.
I didn't see any panhead screw??! WHERE DID IT GO??!!?

Then use new oil filter to hold the lower fairing plastic out when you remove the old oil filter. Cleanup with 1 paper towel.
That's gotta be some pretty swank paper towel you got over there! Is it bounce? (that's a forum inside joke isn't it?!)
 
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The screw holds the lower tail of the fairing on..... remove it and you can flex that piece out (and hold it with a filter or filter box) while you do your thing.
 

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Do yourself a favor and replace the screw with a regular hex head bolt that takes a socket. After about the 30th oil change the hole for the Allen wrench gets pretty sloppy and wallows out.
 

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I appreciate the tip about the Rotella T6 - I made sure to buy the stuff in the blue jug (for diesel).
Uh, that is the wrong stuff. The blue jug used to be dual gasoline/diesel SAE/API certified. In recent months the blue has been reformulated and no longer gasoline rated.
 

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Uh, that is the wrong stuff. The blue jug used to be dual gasoline/diesel SAE/API certified. In recent months the blue has been reformulated and no longer gasoline rated.
I've attached a photo of the blue jug I poured my first oil change from. I thought the point was to use diesel-only oil so that it wouldn't have all the nasty additives that cause griefs and heartaches!
 

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