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2013 Yamaha FJR 1300
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Howdy all,

PROBLEM
I can't seem to bleed out the pressure from my clutch. The clutch lever feels and acts like the brake lever. I've searched the forum, have seen similar questions raised across several threads, but the OPs never shared the final resolution.

BACKSTORY
I'm looking for assistance from the FJR mechanical gurus. I was at the end of life on my rear tire on a recent rainy day, and just knew it would be a good idea to do some rolling burn-outs in the rain. Like most things, it was fun until it wasn't. I cooked my clutch in the process and had to baby it home a couple miles. What a good time to upgrade to the 2016 slipper clutch, right? About US $450 / 400 Euros these days.

STEPS TAKEN THUS FAR
I followed Bryan's instructions to the letter for the conversion. I buttoned it all up, and took the final steps to fill it back up with oil, and bleed the clutch, which I've done before without issue. So I started the bleeding process and it just pumped up hard, so it feels just like the brake lever.

The following steps are all taken without the clutch in place, without oil back in the bike.

1. I took it all apart again, dumping the oil, and removing everything from #2 forward. Bled, same result.
2. Inserted #26 (ball bearing) and #27 (small push rod). Bled, same result.
3. Removed #25 (long push rod) for inspection, all good. Bled, same result.
4. Removed #29 (clutch release assembly) checked clutch release cylinder, spring and bearing. Bled, same result.
5. Removed clutch hose union bolt on #29, checked for blockages, ran DOT4 thru, all good. Bled, same result.
6. Removed bleeder nipple on #29, cleaned, checked for blockages, ran DOT4 thru, all good. Bled, same result.
7. Checked master cylinder intake and out take for blockages, clear, squirts, all good. Bled, same result.
8. I've used my Mityvac 6830 and have manually bled over 2 liters through the system with the same result.

For those that don't know, inside #29 is a spring and piston, much like a caliper, that puts hydraulic pressure on #25, #26, and #27. What the heck am I overlooking?


SOLUTION (Edited after Success)
The pressure plate #8 was not seated properly and just need to be shifted slightly. Remove #13, #8, #5, #7, #5 and reseat them and you should be good to go. Hope this helps someone. Also, no need to drain your oil whether you do this on your side stand or center stand.

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Shout out to Bryan Glynn, Two Wheeled Obsession, for the how-to video and web page for the conversion, and Yamaha and Partzilla for the parts diagram.

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A messy, active shop somewhere in Connecticut.
 

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Premium Member
Versys 1000, VFR800
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Can really only be two things....... first, remove the slave cylinder again, and to keep it from coming apart due to fluid pressure, wrap a zip tie around it to keep the piston in. Now activate your clutch lever and see if fluid pressure pushes out on the piston.... it must move or something is wrong at the master cylinder.... did you check the brass bushing in your clutch lever, etc....... so alll that has to work at minimum and stroke the slave cylinder.

Second thing is if above is OK, and gets rock hard when you re-install the slave, the push rod is coming up against a hard stop.... so everything including the ball (put some grease on it) and how all those parts go into the pressure plate (8) must not be hung up.... I'd take all that apart and doublecheck sequence of assembly. I don't have a slipper in front of me, but the rod should push stuff against the pressure plate 8 to put more compression on the springs 11. You should be able to see movement when you activate the clutch lever. If it moves roughly 1/8-1/4", it's very likely OK. I had an issue on my VFR, damned rod wasn't properly engaging in the bearing end, hung up on the bearing instead of slipping inside where it belongs.

Well, a possible third issue... the stack of plates if too thick will already be pushing out.... seems unlikely that the one plate where you can buy different thicknesses (to "tune" it presumably) is too thick to do that....

Note, you don't have to drop the oil for anything to do with the clutch..... put it on the side stand if you're concerned, but no issue.
 

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2013 Yamaha FJR 1300
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick reply RaYzerman. Much appreciated. I'll try to zip tie the slave now. Keep in mind, all of these steps have been exercised with the clutch boss forward removed from the bike, so there is nothing for the long connecting rod to get hung up on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just zip tied #29, and the clutch lever performed/felt like a clutch lever, and the piston extended and retracted as it should. This of course while not attached to the bike. I pulled the long connecting rod all the way through toward the slave and reinserted to make sure there weren't any obstructions. Clear. Put #29 back on, bled, and stiff again. Removed long connecting rod #25, #26, and #27, bled, and still stiff clutch lever. I'll check the brass bushing in the master now.
 

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2006 FRJ1300A
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52 Posts
Had this happen after a clutch pack install. Turns out part 27 which pushes on the clutch spring got bound up in its hole. Removed the outside of the clutch saw part 27 was crooked and bound up. Tapped on it to loosen it then re-seated it squarely, reassembled and the issue never returned. I probable caused it to happen as I just shoved that part into the hole when initially putting the basket together. It probably wasn't seated on the steel ball squarely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@USNSCPO

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Do you recall if the small push rod (#27) in the center of the photo is supposed to be sticking out like this? I don't remember when taking it apart if it was fully seated or not. Where it sits in the photo is where it naturally wants to stop, approximately 1/2 inch or 13mm. I tapped it lightly a few times with a hammer to see if it wanted to seat deeper inward, but it really stayed put and I didn't want to risk over exerting force.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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It has to stick out a little bit, but I cannot tell you how much..... no info in service manual to help much... The rod itself bottoms out in the slave cylinder, depending on the position of the slave's piston. I would actually pull it toward you in that pic, get all pieces assembled correctly, then push the whole assembly towards the slave... 'cuz it can't really go wrong at that end.....
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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Seems fine. The longer you leave everything apart, the more the slave cylinder wants to extend and push the rod in since there is no resistance. As long as you have the ball behind it, just bolt it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Put it all back together, but same issue. Thanks all.
 

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2006 FRJ1300A
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Sorry I'm late to reply. So, it may be obvious by looking at the diagram, but behind #27 should be the ball and then pushrod. The pushrod seats against the slave cylinder.
I was never able to definitively determine what caused #27 to become lodged, but with such a simple mechanism, I can only surmise that I was not careful enough when reassembling the components. Just wiggle and rotate with some pressure as you seat #27 against the ball and I'm confident you will avoid the issue I had.

Oh, sorry, its been several months since I replaced the clutch pack, so I don't remember. Since you're doing the slipper clutch, you're replacing the whole basket, so it may very well protrude more/less than the original basket? I've had all the parts for 3 months now... gotta get off my caboose and just do it! I did this mod to an FJ900 couple years ago and aside from chasing that metal ball all over the garage, it went great.

I thought of something else. If you're sure you have the basket assembled and plates in the correct order and orientation, then I would recommend rebuilding the slave cylinder. I chased clutch issues for 2 months right after I bought my low mileage 2006. It had obviously done alot of sitting. I had caked crud all around the plunger that was messing with its movement and causing the clutch handle to misbehave. And don't get me started about the state of the fluid, master, and slave. It was a nasty, thick mess.

If its helpful, I documented my adventure in this thread: Greets from Indy

Hope you solve your issue!
 

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The push rod has been the same one forever..... wondering if item 30 (dowel) is somehow hung up? Seems to me it's gotta be something simple with the reassembly.....
 

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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Victory! RaYzerman for the win and many thanks to USNSCPO and OldJeep for the assistance and insight. RaY actually had it right in his first response..

"...the push rod is coming up against a hard stop.... so everything including the ball (put some grease on it) and how all those parts go into the pressure plate (8) must not be hung up"...

It was barely snowing so I loaded my bike into my pickup and headed over to my friend's house who is a better wrench than I. First thing he did was have me remove the slave #29 while keeping the union bolt (clutch fluid empties into bolt) on and sealed, and the bleeder on and sealed. He checked it for in and out movement via the clutch lever. All good. Put it back on the bike. He removed the new pressure plate (#8) and said that it was slightly out of alignment. He reinstalled the final three plates (5, 7, 5) and had me try the clutch while he was tightening the three pressure plate bolts and it was working as a clutch should. Torqued to spec and done in a half hour.

Thanks again guys! Much appreciated.
 

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not sure why U were changing clutch paks......................?????

along the way it was mentioned U were changing to the ‘ slipper clutch '

so please clarify

stock for stock

stock for slipper

?????
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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To install the slipper you use different clutchés and steels than the stock non slipper. He just got a couple of them cocked when putting them in.
 

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To install the slipper you use different clutchés and steels than the stock non slipper. He just got a couple of them cocked when putting them in.

im aware o the difference

not sure how 1 can be 3/4 way thru & start a diff move.......................

main reason Iv not attempted to help
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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First post says he is installing a slipper.
 

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2016's (I believe) and up come with slipper clutches. It's a very doable conversion for pre-2016's.
 

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2013 Yamaha FJR 1300
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
not sure why U were changing clutch paks......................?????
Good question. I should have been more clear. I was upgrading my 2013 to a 2016 slipper clutch. I just added a link to the original post, pointing to Bryan Glynn’s web page with upgrade instructions. Thanks.
 

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