[willwatt3]

2013 FJR with 25,000 miles. Lately, when I turn the key on and press my Run switch to start the bike, it won’t fire up. Usually do this press once more and nothing, but third time is the charm and it starts right up really strong. When I turn the key, the dash lights up and does it’s thing, headlight comes on. This is intermittently happening. Twice this weekend I did cold starts to test it and it started on the first try. I am baffled. I want to do a road trip this weekend, but don’t want to get stranded if this goes south. Any thoughts?

 

[RaYzerman]

When you start it, let it warm up and off fast idle..... shutting it down cold can cause ECU to think it needs to be in enrichment mode resulting in too much fuel. If that happens, need to hold wide open (injectors don't fire) while cranking.
At 25k, you may need some new spark plugs.
Your headlight doesn't come on until the engine is running.

 

[rbentnail]

Your headlight doesn't come on until the engine is running.

Not exactly true. If the controls think the engine should be running and it is not, the headlight will come on.

 

[RaYzerman]

Agree, like if you killed the engine and the ignition is still on.

 

[willwatt3]

Agree, like if you killed the engine and the ignition is still on.

Thanks for responding. I rode it after each time I cranked it. I even videoed my startups the last two times in case I was doing something I shouldn’t be doing during startup, I could review the video to see. I’ll do another startup tomorrow afternoon. A guy at work said it might be the solenoid. Your thoughts on that?

 

[RaYzerman]

OK, let's back up a bit..... need to differentiate between won't crank and cranks but doesn't start.... and the strength of the cranking. We'll make an assumption your battery is fully charged...... if not, that plays into it.
I kinda don't think you should have a starter solenoid issue at 25k, but shit happens..... if you hit the button and the starter cranks over well, then you don't have a solenoid issue.
You're there, we're not, so describe as best you can what's happening in the bad case and the good case......

 

[willwatt3]

OK, let's back up a bit..... need to differentiate between won't crank and cranks but doesn't start.... and the strength of the cranking. We'll make an assumption your battery is fully charged...... if not, that plays into it.
I kinda don't think you should have a starter solenoid issue at 25k, but shit happens..... if you hit the button and the starter cranks over well, then you don't have a solenoid issue.
You're there, we're not, so describe as best you can what's happening in the bad case and the good case......

Battery is 10 months old and really strong.
Bad case: often on its center stand. One week since last ride. Kickstand up, turn key then press kill switch to RUN and if I remember right, it does I think blink the dash lights, but not even a hint of ignition. Release RUN button and press down again and same affect on dash light. Release RUN button and press again and instant (normal) ignition with no delay-really strong.

Good case: key in ignition and turn to ON and press RUN and instant ignition.
I started wondering if I was hitting RUN during the cycle up…right after I turned the key to ON position, so the last two times I made sure I waited until the dashboard did it’s thing and was ready.

 

[RaYzerman]

OK, so system works when it's working, just intermittently activating starter relay..... I'd give the kill/start switch a good clean.... however, shouldn't affect dash lights, hold that thought.... on to starter relay circuits...

Check FI and Ignition fuses, likely OK........ then check the 4-way connector at starter relay for corrosion/good contacts. While you're in there ensure battery connections are clean and snug.

 

[StreamRider]

Thanks for responding. I rode it after each time I cranked it. I even videoed my startups the last two times in case I was doing something I shouldn’t be doing during startup, I could review the video to see. I’ll do another startup tomorrow afternoon. A guy at work said it might be the solenoid. Your thoughts on that?

Post the videos to make this super easy.

 

[StreamRider]

Battery is 10 months old and really strong.
Bad case: often on its center stand. One week since last ride. Kickstand up, turn key then press kill switch to RUN and if I remember right, it does I think blink the dash lights, but not even a hint of ignition. Release RUN button and press down again and same affect on dash light. Release RUN button and press again and instant (normal) ignition with no delay-really strong.

Good case: key in ignition and turn to ON and press RUN and instant ignition.
I started wondering if I was hitting RUN during the cycle up…right after I turned the key to ON position, so the last two times I made sure I waited until the dashboard did it’s thing and was ready.

Also you should never be using the kill switch unless it is an emergency. Many people will argue this in favor of "habit" or lack-there-of but they are completely wrong. Bikes and cars should only be turned off by the method they were made to be such as a key. The kill switch is there for a crash. If you over use it (much like a hazard on a bike) it can or will become a problem.

It can also be bad for the internals as when you shut the bike down using the kill-switch you are stopping it electronically. That could mean un spent gas in the chamber and unwanted compression. Bikes are meant to be shut off by killing the mechanics. I, personally, key off and clutch-pop at the end to alleviate the cylinders of the compression and to expend the gas.

 

[rbentnail]

Also you should never be using the kill switch unless it is an emergency. Many people will argue this in favor of "habit" or lack-there-of but they are completely wrong. Bikes and cars should only be turned off by the method they were made to be such as a key. The kill switch is there for a crash. If you over use it (much like a hazard on a bike) it can or will become a problem.

It can also be bad for the internals as when you shut the bike down using the kill-switch you are stopping it electronically. That could mean un spent gas in the chamber and unwanted compression. Bikes are meant to be shut off by killing the mechanics. I, personally, key off and clutch-pop at the end to alleviate the cylinders of the compression and to expend the gas.

I respectfully disagree with pretty much everything said here.

To the OP- my '07 sometimes would not start when the sequence is done as you describe b/c with the kill switch off, the fuel pump does not run. Change it up. Kill switch on first, then ignition on.

 

[RaYzerman]

StreamRider, the kill switch on a Gen3 is also the starter switch...... you use it every time you start the bike.

 

[grumpy 71]

2013 FJR with 25,000 miles. Lately, when I turn the key on and press my Run switch to start the bike, it won’t fire up. Usually do this press once more and nothing, but third time is the charm and it starts right up really strong. When I turn the key, the dash lights up and does it’s thing, headlight comes on. This is intermittently happening. Twice this weekend I did cold starts to test it and it started on the first try. I am baffled. I want to do a road trip this weekend, but don’t want to get stranded if this goes south. Any thoughts?

This is how my starting problems began. Played up intermittently over two years before it failed altogether and I had to replace the starter solenoid. Don't buy non-genuine!

 

[Randy_B]

. I, personally, key off and clutch-pop at the end to alleviate the cylinders of the compression and to expend the gas.

I don't understand this procedure you described. YOu turn the engine off via the key then release the clutch? How does that get rid of the compression in the cylinder?

 

[Randy_B]

StreamRider, the kill switch on a Gen3 is also the starter switch...... you use it every time you start the bike.

Thanks for that clarification cause I was really lost up to that point.

 

[StreamRider]

Laugh it up all you want but my bike is 19 years old and put down 18,700 in the last 6 months. Probably going to do 4k more by snow. It will do probably twice that before we hit 2024 and I only put the cheapest Walmart fluids in it and beat the hell out of the clutch/throttle. #TheMoreYouRideTheMoreYouActuallyKnow

 

[StreamRider]

I don't understand this procedure you described. YOu turn the engine off via the key then release the clutch? How does that get rid of the compression in the cylinder?

Same as choking an engine. We used to do it in 2 strokes. You let the clutch out while turning the key off and the bike stalls but only leaves fuel and/or exhaust in the cylinders. You stall it/choke it. It's better for the engine and I can reference 30+ old Italian small motor mechanics that will tell you the same.

 

[StreamRider]

StreamRider, the kill switch on a Gen3 is also the starter switch...... you use it every time you start the bike.

I get that the newer bikes have all sorts of fun "quirks and features" but at that point you are just riding a computer on an engine. Not what I am talking about but thank you for clarifying for everyone else.

 

[Reserector]

@StreamRider ain't wrong, though. I checked the '03 Operator's Manual and here is what it says:

 

[StreamRider]

@StreamRider ain't wrong, though. I checked the '03 Operator's Manual and here is what it says:

View attachment 89210

Funny anecdote: While at tech day Ray noticed that my ignition/kill module was free spinning on my handlebars and was concerned as to why it spun around. I replied, "I cut off the dimple so it's free spinning." He looked at me like I had 2 heads. "Why the fuck would you do that?" My reply... "I hate when my immature asshole friends hit my killswitch and play that stupid game so I rotate it under the bars. Then they can't hit it."

He said "You need new friends."

He wasn't wrong.