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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone that has replaced their front brake lines with Stainless Steel aftermarket lines can you describe them to me? Genlll model non-ES.

Is it one line down to a Y adapter, two lines with a cross over or what?
$400 is the price I’m seeing for a kit which seems far more costly than the last time I bought some.

I have bar backs that included the little unsightly 3” SS extension and this is actually what I want to do away with.

Perhaps a hydraulic shop would be the cheaper route? Besides a clean cool look I don’t remember feeling that much difference in braking.
Thanks.

BTW, any video links to fork springs and seal replacement would be cool too.
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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I put a Galfer kit on mine this winter. 11 total lines to replace. Front end has 2 down to the caliper (front circuit and rear link from the ABS unit via the hardlines by the neck) and one that goes from caliper to caliper. The one from the front brake lever goes to the ABS unit - via a 3rd hardline by the neck.

The galfer kit clutch and brake lever lines are a little longer than stock but not 3 inches. Some rerouting may give you some more slack.

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2006 FJR1300 AS - Orion The Hunter
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Is that kit DOT approved? Not that I care, but SS kits I have installed on other bikes all say, "For Race or Off-road Use Only"

SS brake lines def Do make the handle nice and tight, though!! No Sponge!
 

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Is that kit DOT approved? Not that I care, but SS kits I have installed on other bikes all say, "For Race or Off-road Use Only"

SS brake lines def Do make the handle nice and tight, though!! No Sponge!
Their website says they offer DOT approved at no extra cost. No idea what the difference would be.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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What that means is Galfer will provide you a label for each line and you stick it on.... no joke.

When you order Galfer's you can specify longer brake and clutch line.......

HEL made a specific 3" longer brake line if you didn't like that Heli contraption. You'd have to call them...... it used to be $50 a few years back.

Galfer also sold a longer clutch line separately..... pics below, note length I believe was +3" also.




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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
What that means is Galfer will provide you a label for each line and you stick it on.... no joke.

When you order Galfer's you can specify longer brake and clutch line.......

HEL made a specific 3" longer brake line if you didn't like that Heli contraption. You'd have to call them...... it used to be $50 a few years back.

Galfer also sold a longer clutch line separately..... pics below, note length I believe was +3" also.




View attachment 84392 View attachment 84394
But, doesn’t the line go into a block on the head tube. Is it possible to just replace this one line and adapt it to this block??
2016 model.
 

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The front brake lever line goes to a block on the neck (head tube) where it heads to the abs pump. Yes, you could just replace that one line.
 

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I put a Galfer kit on mine this winter. 11 total lines to replace. Front end has 2 down to the caliper (front circuit and rear link from the ABS unit via the hardlines by the neck) and one that goes from caliper to caliper. The one from the front brake lever goes to the ABS unit - via a 3rd hardline by the neck.

The galfer kit clutch and brake lever lines are a little longer than stock but not 3 inches. Some rerouting may give you some more slack.
Hey, Chuck, I'm putting essentially the same Galfer kit on mine right now. Not to highjack the thread, but hopefully to add to it: what was the easiest part and the hardest part of the install? Any tips/tricks you learned the hard way?
I know I'm not looking forward to priming/bleeding all those lines.
 

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Hey, Chuck, I'm putting essentially the same Galfer kit on mine right now. Not to highjack the thread, but hopefully to add to it: what was the easiest part and the hardest part of the install? Any tips/tricks you learned the hard way?
I know I'm not looking forward to priming/bleeding all those lines.
Easiest part was the front end brake lines. They are pretty easily accessable
Worst part was getting the old clutch line out of the inaccessible clamp. You have to chop one end off the existing line and then really pull hard.
There was also at least one banjo bolt on the ABS pump that was kind of a pain.

Bleeding wasn't too bad after I installed a full set of speed bleeders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Related threads.
BTW, Moto-heaven is no longer working with HEL, check out their FB page - HEL Performance USA. or [email protected]



 

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My install of the Galfer kit went much better than I feared. I bought a vacuum bleeder kit from Harbor Freight, and a set of speed bleeders as suggested. It did simplify the process.
What I really want to do now, though, is make up a nice aluminum clamp block to secure the three loose brake lines to the steering neck, where the old manifold was clamped. It's a shame Galfer doesn't include that in their kit. In my opinion, it just looks wrong to let the lines move around with every turn of the handlebars, and something has to eventually work itself loose or wear itself through.
Has anyone already come up with something slick & finished looking to secure those?
 

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My install of the Galfer kit went much better than I feared. I bought a vacuum bleeder kit from Harbor Freight, and a set of speed bleeders as suggested. It did simplify the process.
What I really want to do now, though, is make up a nice aluminum clamp block to secure the three loose brake lines to the steering neck, where the old manifold was clamped. It's a shame Galfer doesn't include that in their kit. In my opinion, it just looks wrong to let the lines move around with every turn of the handlebars, and something has to eventually work itself loose or wear itself through.
Has anyone already come up with something slick & finished looking to secure those?
I don't know about slick, but it is pretty easy to use a few zip ties and get it to the point where nothing moves around. If you wanted to do something slick - I'd consider an aluminum spark plug wire loom.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My thought is getting a plastic block the correct length and size to contain all lines, drill the correct hole size evenly spaced for each line then cut it in half, use the original mounting holes with a sheet metal bracket to secure them.
Might also could do something with a rubber hose?
Of course if anyone is a machinist……?

I’m only going to replace one line so a zip tie might satisfy me.
 

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Glad to see I'm not the only one who feels like something needs to be done to hold those three lines in place.
Thanks, great ideas!
 
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I got a little too much "what should Galfer have provided for a cleaner installation," and had the machine shop at work make up this split clamp block. It's held together with two small cap screws, and uses the original L-bracket to secure to the frame.
It was a real pain to fumble together in such a tight space, but patience, and a rag stuffed into the frame hole behind it, got it done. It hasn't budged in 500 miles of riding.
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