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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, first post here. I just picked up an '05 with 68k miles on it that's been sitting mostly for 6 years. The guy I bought it from put 3k mikes on it since 2015 and I highly doubt he ever did anything to it in that timeframe except tires and bar risers. The upside is that the owner before him was very meticulous and even had a notebook with all receipts for service and upgrades. It literally had six years of dust on it and when I cleaned it, the cobalt blue looked amazing regardless of the typical wear and tear for a 17 year old bike. The negatives are the kickstand sensor needs cleaning or simply replacing or bypassing. The throttle cable sticks but like the kickstand sensor, it's an easy fix or a cheap replacement. The only major issue I have is there is final drive oil on the rim after riding it. I know nothing about final drives so can anyone tell me if the seals or gaskets go bad from sitting or could it be something simpler than that? It's not over-filled so I can discount that thought. Even if I have to take it to the stealership (who charges a $198.00 diagnostic fee just to look at it), I still come out golden since I only paid 2k for the bike to start with. However, if there's an easier and cheaper solution, it makes my purchase even sweeter. Any info you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Can you post a pic or two of the oil on the rim? Three possibilities come immediately to mind but each start in different places. Look inside the wheel (grease), from the breather on top of the pumpkin and/or from the weep hole under the shaft housing near where it bolts up to it. Each could maybe show as you describe.
 

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Don't discount the rear end being over filled. Like Big O said, the fluid on your rim could have blown out the overflow vent.
 

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As BigOgre says, pics would help.... could simply be the drive spline was overgreased at last tire change......
 

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Ronman,

Clean off all of the oil/grease, and see if the leak persists. If the Final Drive was overfull, just remove the F-D filler plug and allow the excess oil to drain out. The F-D oil will stop draining, at the correct oil level. (Do not let the rear wheel rotate for 20 minutes prior to removing the F-D filler plug, because that would cause a false result.) Re-install the F-D filler plug, and it may be okay then. If the leak continues, spray the suspected areas with aerosol body powder. Run the bike on the road briefly, and check for the source of the leak. The white powder coating will show you the start of the oil leak, before the oil goes everywhere.

Keep us posted.
 
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How would you overfill? Aren’t you supposed to fill it to the top of the fill hole? Can’t imagine how you would get more in than that.
Whoops,

If you rotate the rear wheel, either on the center stand or just by rolling the bike into the shop, the heavy F-D oil will coat the rear-end gears. Fill the F-D to the correct filler hole level, re-install the filler plug, and your F-D has been overfilled. The excess oil will be vented, and get all over everything back there. That venting is harmless mechanically, but you will need to clean the wheel a few times. You do not want to leave that oil on your tire; oil rots rubber, and it could cause traction problems.

You have to keep the rear wheel stationary (not rotated) for about twenty minutes to drain out all of the old F-D oil, and then keep the rear wheel stationary, before you add the new F-D oil. Some bike shops may disregard the twenty-minute wait. When the resulting overfill convinces you that you have a leak, some shops will gladly "repair" a leak on your bike that does not exist.
 

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How would you overfill? Aren’t you supposed to fill it to the top of the fill hole? Can’t imagine how you would get more in than that.
If the rear wheel turns during the re-fill, it'll hold quite a bit more (excess) oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks so much for the replies. I'll try to add some pics as soon as I can. I took the top filler screw off just to check the FD fluid level and it seemed ok. However I did notice that it looked really clean and what I've been finding on my rim is black and grimy, like old motor oil. My first instinct was to check for motor oil leaks but let's face it, it's a Yamaha....lol. No issues there. I did notice something unusual yesterday. I rode the bike about 40 miles and when I got back home, only one half of the rim was coated and the other half was still clean. It looked as if there was a spurt of fluid that shot onto the rim and not a constant leak that would coat the rim evenly like it did the first time. It sounds like a shot out of the overflow vent but why would this be so much darker and funky looking than my clean looking FD fluid?
 

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It's not likely out of the vent....... if it's spraying around on the left half of the wheel, it's likely grease from the drive splines.... overgreased last time somebody had the rear wheel off.... it will quit eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I really hope that's the case. I can't find any source of any leaks so I'm gonna ride her and keep an eye on it before it goes to the shop on the 22nd for this issue. Hopefully it'll clear up on it's own. I really, really wanna avoid relying on them to fix the problem (if there really is one) because I hate dealerships and all the sleazyness that comes along with them.
 

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Clean it up real good and see for yourself if it's still leaking. Things don't always fix themselves. A little effort goes a long way. Don't rely on a dealership you loathe so much.
 

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If it was my bike I'd pull the wheel and check the drive splines. It's quick and easy to do.

Haynes
 
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It's not likely out of the vent....... if it's spraying around on the left half of the wheel, it's likely grease from the drive splines.... overgreased last time somebody had the rear wheel off.... it will quit eventually.
Ray I am having same issue noticed on last ride grease on left side of rim and weep hole dry. I changed the lube 4,000 miles ago and did NOT over fill.

I guess it time to remove the pumpkin and look at the seals, have you replaced any of these seals?
TIA
Louis
 

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I have not had to replace seals..... it may be just an accumulation, ie, weepage accumulation.... before reaching a conclusion the seal is bad, I'd say just take if off, clean it all up and monitor it for a while. If it's a true leak, it will leak again very soon, if it's weepage, not so much.
Pressure cannot build up in the pumpkin, it is quite well vented at the top.
 

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Ray really Odd it did it after my last service 4,000 miles ago. I had just did a roll on with friends BMW and was way past 100 MPH but that is a normal thing LOL
I checked fluid level (on center stand ) before I headed home and fluid level was just below thread in case. I rode home at 55 MPH and stopped every few miles to see if rim was still clean, only a few spots??

This FJR sat in a Honda shop for a year or two ( IIRC) with valve cover off replacing CCT and in pieces when Dan trailered it home. We/DAN spent all winter 2019 and serviced EVERYTHING. It had 43,000 miles then now 57,000. Two months ago the water pump mechanical oil seal on impeller shaft pushed oil in radiator reservoir never leaked coolant. The impeller was rusty from setting and no coolant. Flushed system system several times distilled water and replaced with Gen III pump. So when this lube leaked on the rim I thought another oil seal failed from setting.
 

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Interesting theory, but I'd think that driveshaft seal at the front of the pumpkin shouldn't dry out..... looked at service manual diagrams, hard to tell but I'm thinking the pumpkin oil level may be below that seal... still shouldn't dry out though.
I'd just clean it up and monitor, if it's truly leaking enough, it will show soon enough. Armchair mechanics.... let's see what's really going on before drawing any conclusions.... regardless it's not a terribly hard thing to fix it. Again, I'm talking about oil coming out the weep hole at the front of the pumpkin......
 

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I will drive around close to home and see what happens. I still don't understand a seal leaking then stop?? The weep hole is clean and dry I really detail my ride on the lift. You can see where the lube was wet around the hub of the wheel going in the "punkin" . I use to drive Dan crazy cleaning on it while he sealed the forks ,head bearings, checked valve clearance, took the fuel pump apart etc etc He purchased it cheep as he wanted the Gen II forks and silver wheels for his 2014. Then he remember my hands and the AE would extend my riding career and asked me if I wanted it and I said go for and $1,500.00 later in parts (new right side fairing) it was running perfect. I owe Dan Big Time for all his labor and showing all the FJR issues removing fairing etc etc.

My arthritis in my hands gets worse in cold weather only want to remove rear tire and "punkin" ONE time so next spring it's ready to ride..
I have like new Gen III shock and one of Russell Holden's pivot arm with grease zerks and remove center stand have new bolts for it. Also new rear tire (Angle GT A spec} do it all at one time. Dan and I, had this apart two years ago inspecting U joints and servicing the "punkin" checking the spline gear etc. so I know what I am looking at now. We did not go into the punkin.

Not many weeks remain for me to ride it this season so I will see how expensive all the "punkin" seals are. For piece of mind I may do it anyway, I don't TRUST it now going fast and say 200 miles from home and get stranded or worse it dumps 6 ounces of grease on rim/tire and go down.
Thanks Ray
 

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yes, i have. On my '07 years ago. Not difficult if you've done shaft seals before.
Thanks Russ good to know if I have a problem when I install/removal of the seals as this is my first shaft bike in 50 plus years, I have the FSM. I have had car rear end "punkins" apart and replaced ring/pinion gears in "punkins" 55/64 Chevys back in the day.
Thanks
Louis
 
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