Hey TT,
See if this is what you're looking for. http://www.service-shop-repair-manu....com/2016-2017-yamaha-fjr1300a-part-lit-11616-29-61-service-shop-repair-manual/
I just order one for my 2016 A. Do a search on their site and they have a manual for 13 thur 15 which should be what you want. They also have separate manuals for ES suspension.

I ordered a manual from these guys for my 14 Stryker, and it is the FSM. I prefer the FSM over aftermarket manuals, I am a tech so I don't see anything vague, but that may just be me.

 

Just to make it clear, theses are copy of OEM manual.

 

Yes, that is what I am looking for. Not looking like I can find a Haynes manual so I spose I will order that one. Haynes manuals sometimes have benefit telling you how to make a special tool or if you need, workaround or re-wording if FSM was not clear. More of a layman's book.

 

TT, I have both an FSM and the Haynes FJR manual. The Haynes is pretty much all you need for routine servicing.

Actually between youtube FJR videos, primarily Bryan Glynn (Two Wheeled Obsession), and various FJR tech sites, you pretty much don't need anything else.

I don't find the FSM particularly difficult to follow.

FJR Haynes book: https://www.amazon.com/2001-2013-Ya...PAIR/dp/B00WHBPTHY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489293579&sr=8-2&keywords=fjr+haynes

 

IMHO if a person is too confused about what manual to buy either:

A) stay away from tools and pay someone knowledgeable to to the work, or

B) buy all the manuals and take your best shot with the understanding that we get to chastise and harass you unmercifully when you screw it up.

I mean really. Seriously dood?

 

IMHO if a person is too confused about what manual to buy either:

A) stay away from tools and pay someone knowledgeable to to the work, or

B) buy all the manuals and take your best shot with the understanding that we get to chastise and harass you unmercifully when you screw it up, or

C) buy a vintage Britbike and serve a two year apprenticeship learning to keep it running. That will also give you a start on learning m'cycle electrical systems. Free hint: An old-style poptop lid is .032" thick - a good ballpark for gapping plugs and points.

Joseph Lucas: "Ride after dark? You must be kidding."

 

Thanks for the USEFUL replies, merely trying to determine which is the best option. I do not mind paying a few more dollars for the FSM if it is more detailed and accurate than the Haynes. I was hoping there would be a Haynes specific to Gen III in order to avoid vagueness. I have used manuals for other equipment that has various iterations and it gets wordy at times. Do this on model XYZ and that on ABC only on CDE do that whilst doing doing this and not that and so on. Best to have the book that covers a specific model in some situations.

Without knowing and not turning the pages on either of these I expect the FSM to go into more detail on engine and tranny rebuild procedures. Is the Haynes more geared towards maintenance and RnR of pieces parts? Curious if the link supplied is a full exact copy, that almost seems a copyright violation.

I am not confused, confusion exist when knowledge is present and not able to make a decision. I am gathering knowledge in order to make a decision, sheesh.....

 

Thanks for the USEFUL replies, merely trying to determine which is the best option. I do not mind paying a few more dollars for the FSM if it is more detailed and accurate than the Haynes. I was hoping there would be a Haynes specific to Gen III in order to avoid vagueness. I have used manuals for other equipment that has various iterations and it gets wordy at times. Do this on model XYZ and that on ABC only on CDE do that whilst doing doing this and not that and so on. Best to have the book that covers a specific model in some situations.

Without knowing and not turning the pages on either of these I expect the FSM to go into more detail on engine and tranny rebuild procedures. Is the Haynes more geared towards maintenance and RnR of pieces parts? Curious if the link supplied is a full exact copy, that almost seems a copyright violation.

I am not confused, confusion exist when knowledge is present and not able to make a decision. I am gathering knowledge in order to make a decision, sheesh.....

It sounds like you are where I was a year ago when I got my Gen III FJR. I have the FSM, the Haynes, and I like the youtubes the best. The Haynes is written in British so you have to decode it but its ok.
(Hint: "Displace" means "Take off")

I am not a super wrench. But. I have seen a service manual or two in my 50 years of biking, car fixing, being an aircraft mechanic, and 30 years of repairing professional two-way radio systems. I dont think I have seen a worst one as far as being non-intuitive and incomplete as the FJR. (The Last Yamaha service manual I owed was for my new early 1980s XV920RH and that was fine)
Here is their idea of instructions for Removing the Front Wheel. Its page 4-24 just so you know I am not making this up.
1. Stand the vehicle on a level surface
2. Remove
Front wheel sensor
Front Brake calipers
3. Elevate
Front wheel

End quote. I dont know why they wasted all those words, They should have said, "remove Wheel" and be done with it. Now go watch a few youtube vids on how to really remove a Gen III front wheel. It not difficult but there are a few good tips and hints and there is a real order of doing things correctly. I will say this for it. They have the torque values right on the part breakdowns. Very handy.

My Honda service manuals were written by people who actually work on machines, I think. Anyway, I would by both and watch the Youtubes.....

 

If a new, paper Series III FSM is significantly less than $90, it is almost undoubtedly a bootleg copy.

 

Chris, Understood. I am a Computer Tech (no not PC's and crap) and some of our manual are the same. The service procedure is the same as the table of contents entry or in diagnostic flow charts when nothing works it says to call the factory tech, uhh that's me!

I will see if I can get my hands on the Haynes for a look so. What I am wanting is the tips n tricks or layman terms how to. YouTube is often good to get a overview but in an involved procedure not wanting to sit through it or rewind.

 

(sending you a PM ref Haynes) For me, I am a visual learning person. Watching those guys on youtube take off the front wheel, for instance, is worth a million words. Lots of "Ah HA!" moments. Like rocking the calipers side to side to open up the pads to make caliper removal easier. Or, "Oh! The right pinch bolts hold the axel non theaded end so you can put the final torque on the axel nut with a torque wrench on the left side...THEN tighten the left pinch bolts..." or "you can take a spark plug socket and stick it in the non threaded end of the axel to work it loose or ?"

 

TT, I have a fsm for my bike (gen lll) and have to say that it has pretty much everything you need to know in it BUT, I will also say that it is poorly organized compared to all my Honda serve manuals, very hard to find what you're looking for but it is there just have to find it. Been looking to maybe buy a Haynes to supplement that for those days when the "old-timers" is in effect (patience), just my .02.

If you get a Haynes let us know what you think of it, also as said before Brian glynn's two wheeled obsession video's are excellent. May be a reason to take a ride to Tampa just to buy him Beer or 3, his video's have been an invaluable resource for me. I have been spinning wrench's all my life so most mechanical things are easily done but sometimes seeing someone else do it first with a few really good tips really helps make the job easier,,,, thanks again Brian !

 

Just an FYI guy's, a business card is usually in .030- .035in range for thickness depending on the ego of the owner.

 

Front Axle-
Some of us are dirt bikers and if you do not align and torque correctly all sorts of grief can occur in Long Travel forks.
Stiction and wear will increase. Just watch a Moto or GNCC race and see how many cycle the front fork goes through in a minute! To a lesser degree a road bike should have the parallel of tubes set to reduce sticton which will improve small compliance. Sometimes knowing WHY you are carrying out a certain procedure makes the steps more intuitive.

 

Set many a points gap with a matchbook.

 

Joseph Lucas, Inventor of Darkness.

Imagine this scenario:
You and your crew are on the way to the moon in Apollo 13. Right after you radio Houston, "Houston, we have a problem.", you notice that all of your instrumentation says, "Electrics by Lucas".

 

Oh great...now I am going to have night mares....at least I got my new front tire on!:wink2: