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According to Yamaha UK, they had a lot of complaints about the "lazy" throttle on take off. So, for the '06, they modified the cam profile of the throttle cable route so it opens the first 20% (or so) very very quickly.

So, it's not easily fixable if you are used to the '05 way of working (like me). But you can learn to open it very very slowly.....

Alan
 

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Well, if that is the case, then they must have altered the pulley profile in the hand grip. So, if you don't like it, I would suggest getting the throttle hand grip from an earlier FJR and fitting it to the 06 FJR.

Note, I don't have a problem with the 06 throttle action, apart from the excessively heavy return spring, which I have disconnected.
 

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Looks like it's a classic case of "be careful what you ask for - you might get it! " Can't see how increasing the "gearing ratio" of twist grip rotation Vs throttle plate rotation is going to create a lighter action throttle. A heavy bike, abrupt FI and highly geared twist grip all contribute to potential low speed handling problems.

Race throttles that only use 1/4 turn rotation from closed to wide open are great when you're racing but a sport-TOURER like the FJR needs low speed tractability with plenty of twist grip rotation Vs rev changes up to about 3000 rpm. Quickening up the throttle in this application makes no sense what so ever. This is completely wrong-headed.
 

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Throttle sensitivity

I have been considering getting a FJR, and test drove one the other day. I noticed the abrupt throttle issue, and being new to the FJR, had difficulty driving smoothly at low speed. That combined with a lot of play or slack somewhere in the drive train (drive shaft?) were close to being deal-breakers. They would be hard to live with.

I see that there is a fix or workaround for another issue....the strong tension on the throttle....that's good news.
 

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alan sh said:
According to Yamaha UK, they had a lot of complaints about the "lazy" throttle on take off. So, for the '06, they modified the cam profile of the throttle cable route so it opens the first 20% (or so) very very quickly.
Pure Bravo Sierra. The '01s - '05s were fairly abrupt, too.

They're trying to put a backspin on a rotten melon.

Strange that their sportbike models have 2-stage electronically controlled butterflies so they are silky smooth, and the old school mechanical single stage on the FJR was made 'more abrupt' (on purpose) due to customer complaint? Like I said, if you'll buy that.. may I show you a bridge or two for sale?

What is with Yamaha lately? Do they think we're THAT stupid? :roll:

:)
 

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I test drove an '06 AE model the other day, and didn't like the throttle feel at all. Didn't realize they had changed it, but now I understand how and why it felt that way.
I had thought I would like the AE, but that is not the case. I love my clutch, smoother and faster!!
 

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Re: Throttle sensitivity

Jackson8888 said:
I have been considering getting a FJR, and test drove one the other day. I noticed the abrupt throttle issue, and being new to the FJR, had difficulty driving smoothly at low speed. That combined with a lot of play or slack somewhere in the drive train (drive shaft?) were close to being deal-breakers. They would be hard to live with.

I see that there is a fix or workaround for another issue....the strong tension on the throttle....that's good news.
WTF???? get on it and ride it for christs sake! its a fantastic bike, my 06 is the best I have had out of over 30.

Bunch of pussy's
 

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here's my 2 cents

My dealer explained that the throttle has 24 positions and with a PowerCommaner and letting them Dyno it on their machine, they can adjusted each throttle position for the best performance, thus rid the bike of not only this problem, but any other throttle related prolblems you may not personally like...I only wonder if this would solve the problem....
 

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Re: here's my 2 cents

starcruiser said:
My dealer explained that the throttle has 24 positions
When I hooked up to the laptop, I could read 100 throttle positions, so I don't think that's accurate. Perhaps he was talking about programmed grid positions on a PCIII map, and then the PCIII extrapolates between the settings, making a smooth 3D graph.

But yes, a PowerCommander can make things smoother with custom fueling. Not quite carb smooth, but better, if you're tuning for that. The FJR's fuel injection system is working for low emissions and high fuel economy, it achieves both when it under-fuels that on-off transition... which is where all internal combustion engines are a bit wasteful.

valentino said:
WTF???? get on it and ride it for christs sake! its a fantastic bike, my 06 is the best I have had out of over 30.

Bunch of pussy's
I guess *that* would've been a more honest response out of Yamaha, but I wouldn't be directing that comment at my friends here.

The abrupt throttle is so common on fuel injected bikes, and with practice you'll adapt to it.

:)
 

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Re: here's my 2 cents

valentino said:
WTF???? get on it and ride it for christs sake! its a fantastic bike, my 06 is the best I have had out of over 30.

Bunch of pussy's
I guess *that* would've been a more honest response out of Yamaha, but I wouldn't be directing that comment at my friends here.

The abrupt throttle is so common on fuel injected bikes, and with practice you'll adapt to it.

:)
Jackson8888 wrote:
I have been considering getting a FJR, and test drove one the other day. I noticed the abrupt throttle issue, and being new to the FJR, had difficulty driving smoothly at low speed. That combined with a lot of play or slack somewhere in the drive train (drive shaft?) were close to being deal-breakers. They would be hard to live with.

I see that there is a fix or workaround for another issue....the strong tension on the throttle....that's good news.
This was what my comment was in response to. I have a new 06 which has the same problem. It is in the shop as we speak being sorted. To allow such a tiny thing to stop you buying such an awsome bike seems rather petty and I doubt you would ever find the right bike if that sort of thing puts you off.
 

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I have just bought a late 04 FJR and the first thing that struck me is the heavy throttle and heavy return spring.

I have been riding my Suzuki bandit 1200 for the last 5 years and find the throttle on that very sweet. The FJR in comparison is very rough.

Anyone got any ideas. Perhaps a softer return spring? I haven't touched the bike yet - only had it a week, so can any of you seasoned FJRists tell me how best to go about it. Thanks.
 

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throttle return spring

Johnbull,

The throttle body has 3, count 'em, 3 return springs on the 02-05s. I disconnected the 2 side springs and that solved it for me.

I also test rode an AE earlier this week before ordering one and found the throttle response much smoother than on my 05 ABS (which I also sold earlier this week). Obviously YMMV.
 

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I have an (us) '03. I've never experienced any kind of "lazy throttle". I did notice a gap in time between beginning to turn the throttle and the bike responding but it was clearly because the default setting had too much slack in the throttle cable. Once that was adjusted properly, it was fine.

iirc the '03 throttle pully is excentrically-shapped too. perhaps they exaggerated the excentricity in the '06 model?
 

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A couple weeks ago, Petey told me his '06 did behave differently from his '03. He said he did think the throttle cam was different. Sounds like I was wrong... I just can't imagine why Yam would do it. Maybe to counteract the feeling of higher gearing and more weight in a back-to-back comparison.



:)
 

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Some folks seem OK with it (20V etc) but the logic of a quick low speed throttle on a relatively heavy bike is lost on me. The mod that effectively increases the pulley radius seems worthwhile from the user reports. A more comprehensive disassembly of the mechanism and massage / replacement of the pulley may be more "professional" but ultimately may not show any better results for the extra time.

My only concern with adding a copper part or other questionably secured part (o rings, cable ties) is potential work hardening and / or subsequent component disintegration and jamming of the throttle mechanism at the worst possible time. Yeah, I know, I'm a bloody worrywort but I prefer failsafe engineering and if a mod has a potential "maximum" downside even at a low probability, then perhaps some added level of engineering spec to increase the pulley radius may be worth considering. This is in no way critical of "Freds Fix" because its all about deeds and not words and he's achieved a simple, workable fix for a common problem.
 

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Re: here's my 2 cents

valentino said:
WTF???? get on it and ride it for christs sake! its a fantastic bike, my 06 is the best I have had out of over 30.
But followed up by:

valentino said:
I have a new 06 which has the same problem. It is in the shop as we speak being sorted.
Well, which course of actions do you want the pussies to take then, m8? Shall they get on it and ride it for christ's sake, or should they take it to the dealer to get it sorted? :crylarf:

Just kidding.... it would appear that the PC-III for the 2006 FJR has essentially eliminated this issue altogether, according to those that have had one installed.

Linky ==> Review of 06 Power Commander PCIII
 

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IN MY OPINION, trying to fix this by changing the fuel map (via a "Power Commander") is not addressing the root cause, and is not the proper way to fix it. Changing the fuel map is not going to do anything to correct the incoming air flow rates, which are controlled by throttle plate angle. All you will end up doing is making the bike run way to rich at low rpm in an attempt to reduce it's horsepower to try to get rid of the jerkiness.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the fuel mapping and ignition timing curves on the 06 that needs to be changed. The bike runs great stock. The problem is in the progressive pitch pulley and IN MY OPINION, the only way you are truly going to be able to fix it, is to modify the pulley so the throttle plates don't open so far and so fast at low throttle positions.

I have now added shims to about 5 2006 FJR's including an AE model. My own bike now has 6K miles running with the copper shim installed. I will admit, it is not the most elegant or beautiful way to fix it, but short of buying a complete set of throttle bodies for an 05 ($1,000) and pulling off the throttle pulley, it is the best I could come up with at the time.

If done properly there is absolutely no way the shim can come out or jam the throttle. The shim is pinned in place on both ends and can't leave the pulley.

Another option might be to attack it from the throttle grip itself and attempt to mill a reverse progressive pitch groove in it to make the effective diameter of the throttle grip smaller at the beginning, but then you would have some cable slack you would have to take up.

You might also be able to do a more elegant mod to the pulley if you removed it from the throttle bodies so you could work on it better, but there are some springs you are going to have to contend with and removal appears to me like it may present some challanges of it's own, which is why I went the route I did.

Personally, I think spending money on a Power Commander to try to fix this is a waste of money and time and in the end won't be nearly as effective.

If someone has a better idea on how to fix it, I am all ears.

http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/thottlepulley

12 gage copper romax (ruler markings are millimeters)




 
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