FJR Owners Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your bike HERE to be a part of this months Bike of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Scotts

I have been using one for ~12000 miles.

It's cool to change oil and not throw something away, I have had no problems and it looks cool.

Otherwise,I don't think it adds anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
My riding bud got one. Payoff occurs after 14 changes or so ($100/$7), it certainly has the bling look to it. Some have mentioned (and I agree) the difficulty in thoroughly cleaning the mesh element, I have seen this on older Yamis I had with a factory mesh element. It has also been stated that the mesh doesn't filter as finely as a good paper filter does. Comparisons have been made to the Oberg race filter used in most if not all Nascar motors, what isn't mentioned is that these engines recieve a complete rebuild after every race, another example of the fact that whats good in racing doesn't necessarily translate to good in street use. A plus is the fact you have a clear picture of what the motor is dumping metal wise. If you have the dough to spend, why not?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK, so both paint & radman, whats the bottem line if I going to keep my 04 for awhile (I still have the cb1100f, euro version, motor wise that I bought new in 83)(mind you I've had afew used inbetween 7-8 I think) Time ie mulitpe oil changes will cover the cost so yes or no :?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
949 Posts
Changing engine oil is a dirty bloody job at the best of times. It's got me puzzled why anyone would decide to spend time cleaning out a filter assembly with questionable minimum particle size filtration versus a quality disposable filter. Racing oriented products are generally biased towards ultimate engine output not longevity.

Optimise your time and filter function, use a good quality disposable filter with high power magnetic drain plug and high power magnetic band around the filter casing. When you inspect the mag plug and cut open the filter (to satisfy your curiosity) then you will get a quick understanding of filter performance and progressive engine wear. The magnetic extraction of damaging metal particles down to smaller than minimum filtration specs is the only "filtration add on" that I have found practical for use on a bike.

Cheers
Lenz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Only trouble with magnetics is that so little of an engines vitals are ferrous anymore. I suppose if you found a rod cap or a crank throw attached to it, it might indicate a problem in the making...... :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
I use one.

Time ie mulitpe oil changes will cover the cost so yes or no
I suppose it would, but I didn't buy it to save money. I have spent gobs of money on this bike and the Scott filter was small change.

Good things about Scott filter:

1. Bling

2. Has a magnet (guess that's good - see the same black crud as on rear end drain plug).

3. Can look at contents for pieces of engine, etc.

4. I am presuming that this filter allows much more oil to circulate. At least that's their claim.

5. Little fins on can aid cooling? Probably not, but surely add to the Bling factor.

5. Did I mention Bling?

Bad things about Scott filter:

1. Needs to be cleaned a bit. Disposable just needs to be thrown away.

2. Mine has a pain in the arse spring clip holding everthing together. Appears newer version has a coil spring sitting on top to keep media in place.

3. What to do when the funky proprietary o-ring wears out or gets screwed up? Maybe sell the filter on e-bay :lol: I didn't see any replacement gaskets on their website, but that was a couple of years ago.

Anyway, I'm not convinced about the great oil filter war. What the hey! I still use Frams on my cars and none have ever given up the ghost. Need finer filter media? Maybe, but just what is floating around down there in that oil? Thirty microns is pretty small (Scott filter media).

Unless you just want it for the pretty factor, I don't think it's really worth the trouble of cleaning, etc. I got mine mostly out of curiosity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
949 Posts
radman said:
Only trouble with magnetics is that so little of an engines vitals are ferrous anymore. I suppose if you found a rod cap or a crank throw attached to it, it might indicate a problem in the making...... :lol:
While I may be showing my age (~50) I have never believed oil used for the engine should be used in the transmission - the pressure and shear duty are enormously different. However the current reality is that the oil is now common to both gearbox, clutch and engine vitals. Some clutches use steel "driven" plates and others use plated aluminium with all sorts of non-ferrous crap going into the oil from the friction plates. Gearbox components including all needle and roller bearings through the engine mechanicals are ferrous.

Apart from the use of non ferrous big end bearings it is my understanding that the vast majority of high load engine components are ferrous. It is simply not practical to install any commercially available by-pass auxillary filter on a bike to filter down to the 2-5 micron range however a good quality disposable oil filter with a large surface area element PLUS a ringed series of high power magnets around the oil filter casing WILL remove damaging ferrous particles smaller than the average 30-50 micron standard of commonly used oil filters.

The devil is in the detail old mate - the "very fine" detail.

Cheers
Lenz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
949 Posts
Just as an add on to my last rant I don't know what are the limits of boundary lubrication oil film thickness for non presurised moving parts but no doubt there is a shitload of ugly physics and long term wear tests that would support the removal of as much suspended particulate matter as possible.

Cheers
Lenz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
I use the Scotts filter for two main reasons. I ALWAYS seem to forget.....
1, to buy an extra filter and.
2, I'm always changing my oil at midnight before a big ride.
Pop off the Scotts, clean it with brake cleaner, put it back on. Done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I would in no way use a reusable filter. We used to use them on our planes and found it is too much hasle compared to long term savings. I quit on the yamy also. Use K&N now. What a great easy design. 17mm wrench takes it on and off. Has anyone found anything bad about these yet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Has anyone found anything bad about these yet?
I am 62 years old and I have never found anything wrong with any filter that I used on any engine. That doesn't mean much, other than I haven't blown an engine (yet).

I know that some have posted in the past that Frams are junk. Have cardboard in the ends or something to that effect.

I doubt if anyone will find anything to carp about with the K&Ns, but who knows?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
949 Posts
joeseedoo said:
I would in no way use a reusable filter. We used to use them on our planes and found it is too much hasle compared to long term savings. I quit on the yamy also. Use K&N now. What a great easy design. 17mm wrench takes it on and off. Has anyone found anything bad about these yet?
Do you mean you are using a disposable K&N oil filter on the FJR and on aircraft.

Lenz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I am using the disposable K&N's on my FJR. They seem very nice and of good quality. BTW I agree with previous post. I have never found a problem on any filter, Except I did have a big chunk of glue that fell out of a FRAM. I will not use them anymore after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I guess my question has been answered :!: Thanks to everyone for their input :idea: I guess I'll keep using the factory yamaha filters....hopefully I'll get to meet some of you in Reno this summer :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Scotts oil filter

I guess my question has been answered :!: Thanks to everyone for their input :idea: I guess I'll keep using the factory yamaha filters....hopefully I'll get to meet some of you in Reno this summer :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
For $6, the PureOne PL14610 is about as good as it gets. Lots of high quality filter media. Vastly superior to the Yamaha OEM. I cut them both open after use. No comparison. No sense spending more for less I say.
Some guys are using these up to 15000 miles on automobiles with Mobil 1, cutting them open and still in good shape. I would think that you could safely reuse the PureOne through a second change interval on the FJR if you took it off during crankcase drain and let it drain out too. So total cost of $3, but is anyone really that cheap? I hope not.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#OilFilters
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
From the same site. Makes sense to me.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters

"There's a new type of filter being marketed, the "laser cut stainless steel filter," which we're told is "good for the life of your vehicle."

These filters typically have 35-40 micron holes, which is really not acceptable. They typically have 30-40 square inches of filter material, which is really not acceptable. A paper based element is a 3 dimensional filter - when a particle gets stuck deep in the filter element, oil can still flow around it. The stainless steel elements are 2 dimensional - when a particle gets caught, one of the holes is clogged up.

I don't see how you can assure that all the holes get cleared out when you clean these. Certainly simply soaking the filter in kerosene is not going to release particles that have been jammed into a hole at 60psi. Blowing the filter out with air sounds good, but a motorcycle filter is too small to let an air hose inside.

These stainless steel filters cost about $120, about 25 times what I pay for a Pure One. Since I use my filters for about 8,000 miles, that means I have to go 200,000 miles to break even. I've never put more than 60,000 miles on a vehicle.

I don't think this technology is ready to use yet. When the holes get down to 20 microns, and the surface area up to about 100-150 square inches, then I think I'll consider using one. Meanwhile, "good for the life of your vehicle" is not an impressive claim if the device shortens the life of your vehicle."
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top