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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In getting ready to remove Center stand and remove rear linkage for service. Before I do, can someone tell me the size and length of the two bolts I will be cutting off. I’d like to pick them up before I get started. I can reuse lock nuts if you also know the thread pitch. Thanks
 

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Dunno why Yammy didn't put them in the other way and save us all this trouble..... M10-1.25 x 30mm. Half threaded (i.e., shoulder on half). They are black dichromate coated to resist corrosion.
Yammy 90101-10004. You may be able to find equivalent locally.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks very much. Wish me luck.
 

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Thanks very much. Wish me luck.
Mooseman,

WWW.ANYWHO.COM
can find local "Nuts and Bolts" sellers for you, by that category and a local ZIP code.
Just bring the bolt pieces along with you. Call ahead for stock availability.
 

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2016 FJR1300 ES
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I brought the bolt that I sawed off down to Home Depot and bought a similar size. It was a tad too long, so I had to cut a piece off before installing, but it all went well.
 
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I brought the bolt that I sawed off down to Home Depot and bought a similar size. It was a tad too long, so I had to cut a piece off before installing, but it all went well.
As long as you got "Stainless steel" or at least "galvanized" as others will rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok finished except for one more last item. Main stand spring. Any tips on putting it back on. I can get the light spring but the big one it giving me trouble. Should I try installing it with main stand up or down. All rear suspension bearing looked good. Added more synthetic grease and reassembled 61,000 miles. Installed new rear tire and pulled driveshaft and greased splines. Flipped rear break pads, thicker one is now on other side. Any tips on main stand spring would be appreciated. For those inquiring mines, I’m not telling you what brand of tire or grease I used. (Puts a little suspense in the story)!
 

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2016 FJR1300 ES
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I don't recall having trouble with the springs. You can use coins to extend it (insert one in each space in the coil). On your brake pad comment, you should not see a significant difference in pad thickness on the rear. If you do, that's an indication that something isn't right. Maybe the sliding pin isn't lubed, maybe the pistons aren't moving freely. The only place you should see different pad wear is on the front right - due to the linked braking system. On the front right I swap the two sets from time to time to make them wear at a similar rate
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Mortenk. The brake pins are fine. After 61000 miles one pad showed a little more wear than the other, so I did the flip! Now I got to go buy a roll of quarters!
 

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Don't understand why so many remove that particular bolt with all the hassle involved. If you remove the other 3, which is easy, see how the thing swings. If it moves smoothly and easilly it does not need any attention. The problem one is the one on the bottom of the shock as it gets all the muck on it. You can put as much grease on the bearings as you like but when you slide the sleve in it pushes most of the grease out. The top difficult bearing is protected from muck so unless you squirt a pressure washer at it it will do many thousands of miles.
 

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Regarding your spring dilemma, The bottom tool in this picture is for removing and replacing springs in a drum brake setup. Ive had one for over 40 years and among other things, it is excellent for refitting stand springs. Brake Tool Set 7 Pc.
 

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I always use a Big screwdriver to slide springs on. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries.
 

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What Kiwi says, or one of those hook tools with a handle for pulling springs......
 

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What you're supposed to do is before removing the springs, put the sidestand down to extend springs. Insert coins as mentioned. Put sidestand up and remove. Works every time. I posted pics of this 6 or 7 yrs ago but not surprised as folks often tend to work harder as necessary.
 
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