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Hello all,

I am new to the site as a registered member but have been lurking for months. I recently picked up my 2006 fjr and have 1000 miles on it. I have a complaint that I want to throw out there. The roll on throtle response is very abrupt coming from off throttle and back on in a turn.
When trying to roll on to maintenance throttle while trail bracking the transitionis not smooth but very abrupt. I talked to a mechanic today and he said he had noticed the same thing on the fjr's he had ridden. He believes the servo mechanism spring in the drive-by-wire setup is too tight. I asked about re-mapping to smooth the response out but he didn't think it would help. My question is if anyone has this problem? Also, I am going to write Yamaha and register my complaint. I would like others who have noticed this to do the same so they can work on a remedy.

Thanks and I am curious to see if others have noticed this.
 

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Did you read the post entitled, "Heat on the 06, Florida riders preferably?"

It's been that way since the bike came out in 2001.

Drive by wire? Huh? Drive by cable, maybe?



:)
 

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Hey Scotty, welcome to the board. If the mechanic you were talking to thinks the FJR is 'drive by wire', I would find another mechanic!! Maybe he thinks all the 'R' models are that way. Only the '06 R1 as far as I know.
Give that bike another 5000 and see what you think. You should be as smooth as glass by then!
 

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I've posted the same complaint on another post. One has suggested that because the bike has the amount of bottom end torque that it compounds the problem with the FI. I tend to agree with him. Bikes and FI have tended to have this problem in the past as wekk as well as present in some bikes as the FJR. Suzuki has seemed to have figured it out with the dual butterflies in the throttle bodies on their bikes. One is cable operated and the other is computer controlled to smooth out transisions. I had a 98 VFR800 before and it had the same problem but I didn't have 1300 CC with the torque to go with it. Less noticable but there all the same. With me being as pleased with the bike as I am I tend to accept it as charactor.
I do wonder if you could possibly fatten the CO2 level as I have read on the earlier bikes and soften it a bit. But I am not sure that it is even an option with the 06 yet.

Bryon
06 FJR
 

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scott said:
I would like others who have noticed this to do the same so they can work on a remedy.
That's funny. All the whining in the world isn't gonna get the factory to redo EFI maps that they spend BIG $$$ on to get past the EPA. Simply won't happen.

But yes, I've noticed it and until you're willing to plunk down $$$ on an EFI control unit such as a Dynojet PCIII or similar, my advice to you is to train your right wrist (see, it is good for something else). I have about 1000 miles on my 06 and I don't even notice it anymore. Not to say it's gone away, it's just that I think you learn to work it a bit better. My old FJR was abrupt too, my R1 is abrupt, I think most of the big HP EFI bikes are this way in the on/off throttle transition.

As with many things we do with our right wrist, practice makes perfect!
 

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I most be very smooth with my throttle hand, as I have never even noticed this behavior. (actually I know I am) Learn to be more smooth.
 

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I think this problem would be conciderably reduced if you disconnect one of the throttle return springs to lighten the effort required to move the throttle. I find that with a lighter throttle it is easier to make the tiny movements neccessary to prevent sudden on/off power applications.

Also, adjust out any slack in the throttle cables so that there isn't any backlash in the movement. Be careful not to over adjust as this will cause binding of the cables.

The spring to disconnect is located on the third throttle body, between the second and third bodies.
 

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Some of it has to do with learning how the bike reacts to throttle input and adapting your muscle memory. All EFI's can be abrupt when compared to carb fed bikes. Now knowing your riding background, it may be nothing more than needing more seat time. Have you adjust the slack out of your throttle cable? That helps a lot.
 

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Bernie said:
I think this problem would be conciderably reduced if you disconnect one of the throttle return springs to lighten the effort required to move the throttle. I find that with a lighter throttle it is easier to make the tiny movements neccessary to prevent sudden on/off power applications...
Ah Ha! Now that may be an option there. I have thought that the throttle spring was a little on the heavy side. Now that I know that there are more than one spring then I will give it a shot.

Taking the slack out of the throttle cables does help as well. I have already done that. Thanks for the spring idea. Definitely going to try that.

Bryon
 

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I've noticed the abruptness also - mainly been compensating with an extra light touch - or slipping the clutch. I think I'll try reducing the slack also - sounds like a good idea. I'm reluctant to remove one of the return springs - couldn't this lead to a potential problem..... :?
 

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Mine does it too now it's getting run in. I may ask the dealer to check the throttle body sync - my old one never did that.
 

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I've noticed the abruptness also - mainly been compensating with an extra light touch - or slipping the clutch. I think I'll try reducing the slack also - sounds like a good idea. I'm reluctant to remove one of the return springs - couldn't this lead to a potential problem..... :?
 

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alan sh said:
Mine does it too now it's getting run in. I may ask the dealer to check the throttle body sync - my old one never did that.
I checked the sync when I did my 600 mile service. It was only .5 in out on the #3 cylinder. I brought them all to the exact same but it didn't help anything.
 

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Joecbr1100, the throttles on the FJR are operated by dual cables, one cable pulls the throttle open, and the other pulls it closed. So you are not relying on springs to close the throttle. You could operate the throttles with no springs at all, I have actually done this on other bikes and it is a delight to ride a bike like this.

However, in the FJR's case, the situation is a little more complex. The throttle arm which passes through the 4 throttle bodies is not a solid rod, it is 4 short rods loosely coupled together, and there are springs to take up the slack in the couplings. You cannot disconnect these springs without causing severe imbalances in the throttle operation. There is one spring which is not involved in this process, and that one can be disconnected.

Other arguments which people bring up are, what happens if a cable breaks and there is no spring to close the throttle? well, you have a "KILL" switch on the handle bar, use it. The other one is, what happens if you have an accident and the motor keeps running? The FJR has a mercury tilt switch for this situation, and the motor will cut as soon as the bike falls over.

But in the FJR's case, you are only disconnecting one spring, there are still 4 others to do the job. :D
 

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jerky throttle response

I just did my throttle body sync and they were out of spec a little. It helped smooth the jerky throttle response noticeably. A good place to start. My Goldwing, another big torqe heavy engine does not do this as much. I've learned to live with it.
 

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CO2 adjustments on an 06???

Has anyone tried adjusting the CO2 on these bikes? I have read about it on other web sites but was looking for some personnel experiences with it. Considering the EPA requirements for lean cruise I would wonder if fatting up the CO2 level (richening) a bit if that may help as well. Now what I have read is with the 05 and below bikes. I am not sure if it is still an option with the 06 or not. Does anyone know?

Bryon
 

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Is CO2 adjustment some 4 letter word or something? I can't seem to get a hit on the ?? of CO2 adjustment

Bryon
 

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Thanks Rabbit,
It all makes perfect sense. Now, the next question is, is the 06 harness the same? I am smart enough to know to be absolutely sure that you are jumpering the correct pins before plugging into an ECU. I have no diagrams of the 06 plus I haven't seen the details on what signals are being bypassed/jumpered. Anybody out there who could help?

Bryon
 

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Hey Scott and to the rest of you Gentlemen..

I just joined this forum 2 minutes ago..... I have been riding my new 06 FJR for a few weekends now and have put about 1200 miles on it and I have the same "abruptness" as Scott and many of you are experiencing!

I ride 2 up 95% of the time and the lack of smoothness on the transition from 10% throttle to 30% (in the 2,500 RPM to 3,000 RPM range) is very pronounce as this is when I am exiting a slow tight corner...it's much more pronounce in 2nd gear, but also there in 3rd. This also happens during straight line re-acceleration. I have been feathering the throttle way too much.......and I don't think we riders have to work so hard to get a fluid transition!

We all have paid a lot of hard earned money for an very expensive piece of equipment and I expected a little better than what I have been experiencing. Shouldn't this matter be a dealer fix issue? I also purchased the 4 year "YES" YAMAHA Factory warranty. I would like to think that Yamaha Corporate would want to correct this problem sooner than later.

Any constructive advice? Scott, please copy me on your communication to Yamaha, and I will also write to them. I am going to advise my local dealer here in Petaluma, California re this issue on Tuesday.

Wish me luck!
 
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