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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Two years ago I was strongly counseled by some wiser souls on this site not to buy a wrecked Gen 3 and move the dash and cruise control to my 2012 Blue Beauty. (Frankenbike was one person's description of the inevitable end product.) Still seeking cruise control after riding my son's HD Heritage with it, I just bought a 2014 FJR. (Yes, Redheads are a standing weakness of mine.) Looking forward to many smoother miles with less stress about mph creep and LEO's.

I read that Gen 3's are easily inflicted with a broken mirror strut. Will be stripping most of the plastic off the 2014 this winter anyway. While the strut is exposed, is there any preemptive way to reinforce the strut before it fails?

Also, are there any other Gen 3 issues I should address while the bike is idle?

Thanks!
 

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2015 FJR1300A
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I don't know that the mirror struts are weak unless it hits the ground, but that's hard on most all mirrors. Gen3s are pretty well sorted out, check that the front brake switch recall was done. If you don't know the maintenance history, service the fluids. brake, clutch bleeds, coolant change and the drive shaft fluid. Check the steering head bearing torque. Most of that should be yearly anyway. A lot of what you read on the interweb is all the bad/problems people have, rarely the good, The FJR is a good sound motorcycle, like every other man made thing issues come up but not to many on these.
 

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You may be able to minimize the chances of the front stay breaking in a drop if you loosen the nut securing the mirror just enough that the mirror remains in place at speed. That may enable the mirror to collapse a little more easily and reduce the impact to the stay.
 

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In my opinion the mirrors are far too tight, which contributes to the problem. I like my mirrors so that they are loose enough to flip out of the way if I clip a car mirror when filtering, but tight enough not to wobble. It means a bit of trial and error but take the mirror off and try to keep the washers together. Take one washer away and alter the position of the cup washers. When you are happy with the tension rub the washers with greasy fingers. After some fiddling I got mine just right. On a previous post I suggested this and some one that had to make a comment said that it would not make any difference, but it will as the rigidity is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
John and Linton, you are are absolutely right about reducing the tension holding the mirror out will reduce stress on the strut when the mirror has pressure. Have done this on my other bikes and plan to do it on The Red Head.

It seems that too many posts about stay failure come from the bike being dropped, the mirror folding, and the stay taking the shock load. If there is a way to reinforce the stay while I have the plastic off, I would like to do this too. Have seen photos of JB Weld repairs to the strut. Wonder if this same approach would work before the stay fractures? Or is there an even better way to buttress the failure point?
 

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I think that's a great idea while you have them exposed. I'd imagine anything you could come up with could only help should the time come. Sure couldn't hurt in any case, as long as you can get the plastic all back together afterwards. And we all accept this same line of thinking when it comes to stiffy kits and different racks to reinforce the rear sub-frame 'just in case'.

Not looking at a schematic but maybe something along the lines of a splint clamped onto both sides? Or wrapping it in fiberglass?

Edit: Just looked at a schematic. Wonder if you could cut metal plates that matches the shape of the strut and place them on either side, running a couple of bolts through each to clamp together? Think along the lines of boxing out an I-beam for additional strength. BUT - then the question becomes: If the stay doesn't break during a drop, where are the forces transferred too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
... Not looking at a schematic but maybe something along the lines of a splint clamped onto both sides? Or wrapping it in fiberglass?

Edit: Just looked at a schematic. Wonder if you could cut metal plates that matches the shape of the strut and place them on either side, running a couple of bolts through each to clamp together? Think along the lines of boxing out an I-beam for additional strength. BUT - then the question becomes: If the stay doesn't break during a drop, where are the forces transferred too?
I like the way you are thinking - maybe fiberglass, or a structure that can be bonded with JB Weld or ??? Do not want to use welding or drilling holes. Wonder what buttressing would work best?

In a perfect world, the forces would be transferred to an element that is significantly stronger than the stay and could absorb the load without failing. BUT, Murphy's Law says it will only transfer the load to a more expensive part that is more difficult to access and that part will still fail!

Hoping someone has done this already and has some photos. If not, I will try to document and post the process when I get in there.

Thanks for your thoughts and wisdom!
 

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The trouble with the folding mirrors, is that they fold in the horizontal plane, whereas, if the bike falls down, the force applied to the mirror strut is in the vertical plane. That is why the Stay breaks.
 

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Step 1, don't drop your bike.
If you cannot accomplish step 1, make sure that you buy crash bars that keep the mirrors off the ground
 

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No. Just put T-Rex armor on it and don’t worry about it. Mine have been down with r&g frame sliders or T-Rex engine guards,
coupled with T-Rex bag guards, multiple times with zero damage.
Two years ago I was strongly counseled by some wiser souls on this site not to buy a wrecked Gen 3 and move the dash and cruise control to my 2012 Blue Beauty. (Frankenbike was one person's description of the inevitable end product.) Still seeking cruise control after riding my son's HD Heritage with it, I just bought a 2014 FJR. (Yes, Redheads are a standing weakness of mine.) Looking forward to many smoother miles with less stress about mph creep and LEO's.

I read that Gen 3's are easily inflicted with a broken mirror strut. Will be stripping most of the plastic off the 2014 this winter anyway. While the strut is exposed, is there any preemptive way to reinforce the strut before it fails?

Also, are there any other Gen 3 issues I should address while the bike is idle?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No. Just put T-Rex armor on it and don’t worry about it. Mine have been down with r&g frame sliders or T-Rex engine guards,
coupled with T-Rex bag guards, multiple times with zero damage.
Totally agree about the value of engine and luggage guards. Am too old and inseam is too short. Would not own a bike without such protection. Sometimes they look ugly (esp. luggage guards when the bags are off), but the protection and peace of mind are worth it.
 

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Versys 1000 CBF1000 VFR800
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Don't waste your time trying to reinforce the mirror stay.... the whole thing is weak (thin casting). It will just break somewhere else...... let it break where at least you can get at it with the dash plastic off.
Perhaps put FZ1 mirrors on, they fold up more easily and closer to the body. If you keep stock mirrors, remove the washer stack and re-stack with less tension.... but the base is going to hit anyway and ...... ooops. Yeah, don't drop it, lol.
 
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When it breaks, just remove the mirror and smear some epoxy on the break to "glue" it back together, then put the two pieces back together. The fairing will hold it in place at the mirror mount. Reinforce it with more epoxy when back together. JB Weld is rather runny, I'd use Permatex. It usually breaks further inboard than in Back in Black's.
 
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Unfortunately I have had the stay break three times in 0 mph tip overs. I have JB welded the stay back together and it lasts for a while. Until I hit rough road like dirt road wash board. And the stay has broken in different spots every time. The stay is a piece of shit and will find a way to break. My last repair lasted about a year until I hit a really rough section of dirt road. The mirror moves a little more than the undamaged stay side, but it is aggravating. I will probably replace the stay this winter. Just don't let it drop. Yeah, right!!
 

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Funny that nobody has tried to build a replacement out of steel if this is such a common occurrence. Or at least some sort of bracket to tie the ends to something solid in the center
White Bicycle part Font Rim Auto part
 

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That baby is an all day job to replace.... fun wow. If you can, get a third hand to help get things out of the way..... take your time, make note of which screw and part goes where. A buddy is waiting for some parts, then I get to help him do yet another one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Funny that nobody has tried to build a replacement out of steel if this is such a common occurrence. Or at least some sort of bracket to tie the ends to something solid in the center
You are sooo right! Would love to replace the original stay when the plastic is off this winter. The cost of a stronger replacement stay is cheap insurance for not having the stay fail at an inopportune time and need to open everything up again.

Unfortunately I have had the stay break three times in 0 mph tip overs. I have JB welded the stay back together and it lasts for a while. Until I hit rough road like dirt road wash board. And the stay has broken in different spots every time ...
Calling all machinists, metal benders, carbon fiber specialists and engineers! (Maybe even 3D printing gurus?) Here is your chance to save humanity! What can you provide? How big a first production run do you need to make this possible?
 
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