Huh? Catastrophic failure? Of the rear suspension? Am I missing something? Never heard of this. Certainly not common by any means.

Unless you know something specific about your bike, if have to say you probably have nothing to worry about.

 

I never heard of this except in the UK. Considering the wet, and muck, and mud that you guys regularly ride in, extraordinary maintenance is required on anything near the road. A couple of old posts described a situation where the suspension links "froze" and in one case I remember the guy bought a used bike and discovered the frozen links because of the handling {or lack of it}, and there was a story of a guy where the rear links actually failed and the rear of the bike ended up riding on the wheel, but if I remember right he got it stopped and off the side of the road without being hurt.

Since these situations, everyone talks about this so much on FJR forums that it's not likely to happen to one of us. I just checked my linkage at 30.000 miles on my USA bike which has been ridden in the rain maybe 3 times, and it looked like new.

 

It's not a common fault but has occurred.
I wouldn't loose any sleep over it, but if you service the linkages it shouldn't happen.

You don't have to remove the relay arm totally, you can service most of the bearings.
That last frigging bolt, the frame linkage bolt #23, is a pain, but you can get some lube into it, anything is better than nothing.

I ended up grinding away some metal to access the bolt, to remove the relay arm totally.

Its an easy job for a rainy day.
No need to sling the bike ever and able to service the arm within an hour.

It happens when the bearings seize up and the 2 dog bones bend.
I think it's happened on 2 Aussie bikes.

I did Bob, my Gen3, with an industrial die grinder, took about 10 minutes.
You will have to cut off all the threads, bar one, of the bolt using a 4" cut off wheel, (with the guard removed) stupidity warning

 

One should do a preventative maintenance with a generous greasing, which will go a long way to delay any corrosion. The alternative to grinding away material for that front bolt is to cut off the two centerstand bolts and remove it (while the bike is suspended of course). Then replace the bolts but turn them the opposite way so they can be removed easily in future.

 

This is an easy job, and satisfying to do, especially if you have access to a lift table.

The advice about the center-stand bolts is good, and will make the job easier next time.

While you are in there, pull the swinging arm, strip, inspect and regrease.

Also get some Moly (60 or 70) on BOTH ENDS of the UJ.

All in all, a pleasant afternoon's work.

 

Now you have serviced the linkage dont worry about it - and don't believe what you read on some FJR forums for christ sake some people what to make you ill with worry.

If you intend to use your FJR though a UK winter just service the linkage again come spring.

 

My first FJR was a 2005, I sold it after 3 years with 75000 miles on the clock. I never carry a pillion but the new owner did and
BANG the connecting arms snapped. The bearing on the bottom of the shock absorber had seized solid preventing any movement.

On subsequent FJRs I have greased the linkage every time I change the rear tyre, but I never bother with the difficult one that involves removing the stand, As you undo the other 3, easier to release on the side stand and then put on centre stand, you will soon notice if there are any problems with any of the bearings. Once the 3 bolts are removed swing the housing and you will find that as the bearing is protected from dirt by the swing arm it is perfectly OK.
The problem with the needle bearings on the suspension is that they move very little, the grease is more to stop them seizing than lubricate their movement.

If you do need to replace a bearing it is very easy, get a large 'G' cramp, put a slightly smaller socket than the bearing on the bearing, put a larger socket on the other side and wind it out.
If you put the new bearing in the freezer it may reduce in size very slightly and with a well greased housing carefully push it in.

 

I thought while we are in lockdown I might as well lub the rear link arm on my 06 Gen 2 that I have owned for only 2 years. It has 61k kms on it. Thought I was going good. Swing arm bolts cut off easy, link rod swing arm bearing all good, front bearing good, shocker link arm bearing good and middle rod bolt out easy, sleeve tight - are we might have a problem, tapped the sleeve out with only a light tap with a drift so might be not so bad but no such luck. Right side bearing absolutly shot but left side only a bit knochy but sleeve pitted. So have ordered new bearings and sleeve and new swing arm bolts.