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:frown2:I have just got my bike back from the dealer after doing the 2nd gear recall, see my reply under that thread, but just to say all is well. I did the first check on my bike at the 600 mile interval and changed out the oil for Mobil 1 Metric synth and filter. I then obtained the official Yamlube shaft drive gear oil, which I understand is low foaming. I drained off the old oil into a measuring jug which happened to be calibrated in ounces. The hand book states it should be 0.2 of a litre, the drained oil amounted to 4.8 ounces. I left it to drain overnight to ensure that I had recovered it all. I did the conversion on Google and it would appear that ex-factory - pre delivery prep the bike was operating on low oil. I replaced the oil at 7 fl ounces. When I took the bike in for the gearbox fix I told the dealer that the oil was low but that I had replaced it with the measured quantity as stated in the manual. The shop manager said that the oil in all Yamaha shafts should be just visible at the bottom of the filler plug threads. I do not think that the 7 ounces got it to that level. The question is do I leave it where it is or top it off to the bottom of the filler hole threads?
 

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This is explained in detail and well documented in the owners manual, page 6-14 and 6-15 in the version I have.
 

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:frown2:I have just got my bike back from the dealer after doing the 2nd gear recall, see my reply under that thread, but just to say all is well. I did the first check on my bike at the 600 mile interval and changed out the oil for Mobil 1 Metric synth and filter. I then obtained the official Yamlube shaft drive gear oil, which I understand is low foaming. I drained off the old oil into a measuring jug which happened to be calibrated in ounces. The hand book states it should be 0.2 of a litre, the drained oil amounted to 4.8 ounces. I left it to drain overnight to ensure that I had recovered it all. I did the conversion on Google and it would appear that ex-factory - pre delivery prep the bike was operating on low oil. I replaced the oil at 7 fl ounces. When I took the bike in for the gearbox fix I told the dealer that the oil was low but that I had replaced it with the measured quantity as stated in the manual. The shop manager said that the oil in all Yamaha shafts should be just visible at the bottom of the filler plug threads. I do not think that the 7 ounces got it to that level. The question is do I leave it where it is or top it off to the bottom of the filler hole threads?
I pour 7 ounces in mine as well, and the new oil is so clear it can be hard to see the exact level. But just to amuse myself* I stuck a thin piece of clean paper in to the bottom of the threads, and it did, indeed, start wicking up oil. Every since then I drain until it starts dripping slowly and replace with 7 ounces. 87,000 miles later all's good :)

* I can very easily amused since retiring.

Edit:
Again, because I'm so easily amused I checked my US Owner's Manual, and it shows the level at the top of the threads. Hmmmmm.........
Maybe next time.
 

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Scope,

You can use the link below to find a free copy of the Yamaha owners manual. if you don't have one.
Then search the index to find the final drive oil section for your bike.

https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/gb/en/services/owner-manual/

For both FJR ( 2007 & 2013 ) I have owned, I've always filled the rear diff to the threaded area. O/M of both those FJR states that is the correct amount, same as in the photo from Mr_Ed
 
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:frown2:I have just got my bike back from the dealer after doing the 2nd gear recall, see my reply under that thread, but just to say all is well. I did the first check on my bike at the 600 mile interval and changed out the oil for Mobil 1 Metric synth and filter. I then obtained the official Yamlube shaft drive gear oil, which I understand is low foaming. I drained off the old oil into a measuring jug which happened to be calibrated in ounces. The hand book states it should be 0.2 of a litre, the drained oil amounted to 4.8 ounces. I left it to drain overnight to ensure that I had recovered it all. I did the conversion on Google and it would appear that ex-factory - pre delivery prep the bike was operating on low oil. I replaced the oil at 7 fl ounces. When I took the bike in for the gearbox fix I told the dealer that the oil was low but that I had replaced it with the measured quantity as stated in the manual. The shop manager said that the oil in all Yamaha shafts should be just visible at the bottom of the filler plug threads. I do not think that the 7 ounces got it to that level. The question is do I leave it where it is or top it off to the bottom of the filler hole threads?
You mean you didn't check? OTOH, 4.8 oz. is a bit, but not critically, low. And 7 oz. = 207 ml, so that is about right.

BTW, if you think that SAE 80 - 90 weight gear oil seems to be a little thin, you would be right. Gear oil is graded differently from engine oil. SAE 90 gear oil is equivalent to SAE 50 engine oil.
 

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I think the spec actually calls for 6.7 oz, but some oil stays in the measuring cup and some in the funnel when you pour it in, so I pour 7 oz in the measuring cup and dump it all in.
 
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I think the spec actually calls for 6.7 oz, but some oil stays in the measuring cup and some in the funnel when you pour it in, so I pour 7 oz in the measuring cup and dump it all in.
FYI, 6.7 US fluid ounces = 6.973647 Imperial fluid ounces.

I live to serve.:grin2:

Haynes
 

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In my climate I find 80W90 gear oil to be quite thick, except if I’m changing the final gear case oil on any of 3 days in late July. Here’s what I do to make sure I get all the old gear oil out and the proper amount in:

1. go for a short ride to warm up the gear oil
2. drain the final gear case
3. while draining the case warm the unopened liter of new gear oil in a bucket of hot water
4. place the bike on its centre stand with a thin shim (5-6mm) under the left foot of the centre stand
5. fill the final gear case with new gear oil (hint – use the screw-on “nipple” that should have come with the 1 liter bottle of Yamalube 80W90 gear oil) without measuring
6. add gear oil until it runs out of the filler hole
7. remove the shim from under the centre stand
8. allow the excess oil to run out of the filler hole
9. reinstall the filler plug and torque to the specified 23 N.m
10. don’t think about gear oil again until 24,000km have elapsed on the odometer

On the FJR the shim mentioned at #4 above is not really necessary as the filler hole is at about a 45° angle to the case, unlike the filler hole on the final gear case of the 2013 Super Tenere which some genius designed to be at 90° (horizontal) to the case.

My 2¢.

Haynes
 
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I just changed mine out the other day. Reddish/brown came out. Is that the color of the Yami fluid?

I just let it drain, put the plug back in, add some new fluid and spin the rear wheel as I drain it out, repeat 2 times. Then add fresh fluid until it comes out the fill hole just like Yami says, no measuring.
 
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I believe the FJR instructions tell you not to turn the wheel when draining, unlike the ST1300 which tells you to turn the wheel when draining.
 

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The ST thing never made sense to me, when you turn the gears it coats them with fluid and it will leave residual oil. Best leave it sit a while after draining so that residual goes to the bottom, so when you fill it's not an overfill.
When you refill, do not turn the rear wheel, same thing happens, you coat the gears and will end up with an overfill. When the final drive heats up, you will get a fogging or splooge out the final drive vent and you'll be wiping off your final drive later.
As for interval, usually it's a 2 year recommendation, however, if you inspect and find it milky (water), probably should change it. Once a year is plenty enough, which is what I do.
 

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I believe the FJR instructions tell you not to turn the wheel when draining, unlike the ST1300 which tells you to turn the wheel when draining.
Whooshka,

+1 on the Ferret's advice. Turning the rear wheel coats the gears with oil that would otherwise drain out.
If you turn the rear wheel when filling, you will over-fill the Final Drive.
The excess oil will exit at the weep hole, go everywhere back there, and it will make you think that you have an oil leak, when you do not.

Put the bike on the centerstand. Put an oil catch pan under the Final Drive. Remove the FD filler and drain plugs. The FD drain plug is magnetic, so clean it off with a clean rag. Let the rear wheel remain stationary for at least 30 minutes, while the old oil drains out. Then re-install the FD magnetic drain plug, and refill with fresh oil, as per the Owner's Manual. Install the filler plug, and you are golden there. HTH.

NOTES: If you want a magnetic drain plug for the engine crankcase oil too, the magnetic drain plug for the Final Drive is identical, but with the magnetic core. I use a magnetic FD drain plug in both places. New crush washers can be had at any auto parts place, same as some Volkswagen engines use. BTW, the torque spec for the engine crankcase drain plug is wildly excessive. Ignore that crazy number. You can buy aftermarket magnetic drain plugs for the FJR that are drilled for safety wire. Better to use safety wire on that plug, than to risk stripping out the crankcase threads there.
.
 

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Holy Cow!!
Pull fill and drain plug.
Watch oil pour on floor.

Satisfied with size of oil pool on floor, install drain plug.

Fill with oil till it runs out.

Install fill plug.

Find sandwich.



I pay more attention to cutting one toe nail then I do changing diff oil.
 

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Holy Cow!!
Pull fill and drain plug.
Watch oil pour on floor.

Satisfied with size of oil pool on floor, install drain plug.

Fill with oil till it runs out.

Install fill plug.

Find sandwich.

I pay more attention to cutting one toe nail then I do changing diff oil.
I'm good with this but prefer to celebrate my accomplishments with a cold beer! YMMV.
 

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Holy Cow!!
Pull fill and drain plug.
Watch oil pour on floor.

Satisfied with size of oil pool on floor, install drain plug.

Fill with oil till it runs out.

Install fill plug.

Find sandwich.

I pay more attention to cutting one toe nail then I do changing diff oil.
Ah, I so miss the days of just pulling whatever up on the dirt road and dumping it right there. >:)
 

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I spin the wheel to let the fresh fluid "wash off" the old fluid. I give it sufficient time to drain inbetween "wash off's" and installing the fill plug. It's not overfilled.
 

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I spin the wheel to let the fresh fluid "wash off" the old fluid. I give it sufficient time to drain inbetween "wash off's" and installing the fill plug. It's not overfilled.
Whooska
You have way to much time on your hands>:)
 
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