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2007 FJR1300A
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Maybe you could get the pads out if you removed the caliper bracket from the bike (removed rear wheel - or at least the axle and spacer). Doesn't seem like that would be possible, but I have not tried it. If you took the caliper bracket off the bike - then yes you could easily compress the piston, even with the pads still sitting in the bracket/caliper. Couldn't grease the caliper pins completely with them still installed, which would be an issue.
Thinking about this some more, since the pins are attached to the caliper and not the bracket. With it removed from the bike, I suppose the whole caliper could slide out of the carrier taking the pads with it since the pins just ride in the carrier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I personally hate using Helicoils unless the part that is messed up is super expensive. But if you do go that route, pick up the big metric kit from Northern Tool. It'll cost $60-$70 which is about double what a kit for just a single size typically costs.
I ordered a caliper with pads and a carrier on eBay for $25. The pads in the photo look pretty good, so if all else fails maybe I can bolt it on and hope it is actually in good shape. Like I said, I'm trying to get ready for a 5000-mile trip and trying everything I can. I could buy the whole shebang for $251 (#3) but it wouldn't ship for 26 to 31 days. We'll see how it goes.
 

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2007A, 2013A
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Thinking about this some more, since the pins are attached to the caliper and not the bracket. With it removed from the bike, I suppose the whole caliper could slide out of the carrier taking the pads with it since the pins just ride in the carrier.
Exactly right. #6 pins don't need to be removed to change rear brake pads.
 

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2007A, 2013A
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I ordered a caliper with pads and a carrier on eBay for $25. The pads in the photo look pretty good, so if all else fails maybe I can bolt it on and hope it is actually in good shape. Like I said, I'm trying to get ready for a 5000-mile trip and trying everything I can. I could buy the whole shebang for $251 (#3) but it wouldn't ship for 26 to 31 days. We'll see how it goes.
When is the trip? Sounds like less than a month based on stated delivery worries. I hope you've learned a valuable lesson here Grasshoppah- never, EVER do anything to the bike for at least 2 weeks, 4 is better, before a planned trip. And you found out why- delivery time of a replacement if something goes wrong. Plan way ahead, get things done way, way in advance and coast with your mind at ease on your trip. Mechanic-ing like this should be done at least 2 months in advance. It's not like you're going to wear out brake pads before you leave.
 

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You beat me to it. :LOL:

Never break the 2 week rule. This weekend I do an oil change in preparation for my Memorial Day trip. Then all it gets is waxed, loaded and tire pressure check.
 

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2007A, 2013A
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Mine used to be a 2 week rule but as delivery times have lengthened over the past couple of years so has my rule. I go 4 weeks now.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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10,628 Posts
Silicone brake grease won't melt under higher pressures........ BTW, I never remove the slide bolt... why? Just slide the caliper apart, grease it and slide it back together... EZ PZ.
Clean the piston while you're at it, then remove the cap off the reservoir and push your piston back in.
 

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2007A, 2013A
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Silicone brake grease won't melt under higher pressures........ BTW, I never remove the slide bolt... why? Just slide the caliper apart, grease it and slide it back together... EZ PZ.
Clean the piston while you're at it, then remove the cap off the reservoir and push your piston back in.
^^ this.
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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2,196 Posts
Silicone brake grease won't melt under higher pressures........ BTW, I never remove the slide bolt... why? Just slide the caliper apart, grease it and slide it back together... EZ PZ.
Clean the piston while you're at it, then remove the cap off the reservoir and push your piston back in.
You guys are why those things are siezed ;)
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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So convince me why I would ever want to remove that pin?
 

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To me, inspecting/replacing rear brake pads gets done in conjunction with rear wheel removal for tire replacement. It's not a task that I'll do on its own. Just like drive shaft & u-joint. Kinda silly to pull the axle for brake pads, doncha think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
When is the trip? Sounds like less than a month based on stated delivery worries. I hope you've learned a valuable lesson here Grasshoppah- never, EVER do anything to the bike for at least 2 weeks, 4 is better, before a planned trip. And you found out why- delivery time of a replacement if something goes wrong. Plan way ahead, get things done way, way in advance and coast with your mind at ease on your trip. Mechanic-ing like this should be done at least 2 months in advance. It's not like you're going to wear out brake pads before you leave.
I actually did think I was giving it plenty of time. I'm leaving June 10. I've mounted new tires even though I could have done another 1000 miles on the old. But like you say I wanted to get the tires on and check things out with plenty of time if needed. Since I replaced the rear pads rather easily last time with the rear wheel in place that's what I planned. Didn't work so well this time. If I ordered the new caliper from Partzilla (with the carrier, pads, yada, yada) they say plan for 26 to 31 days. That's cutting it too tight for me or I'd just order the blasted thing.

I see now from this thread and looking at mine how pads could be installed with the wheel off and not removing the pins. I do check the pads each time I have the wheel off and will do that in the future. I have a used caliper coming. If it's in good shape, I'm good to go.

And that's "Mister Grasshoppah" to you. ;)
 

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2007 FJR1300A
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To me, inspecting/replacing rear brake pads gets done in conjunction with rear wheel removal for tire replacement. It's not a task that I'll do on its own. Just like drive shaft & u-joint. Kinda silly to pull the axle for brake pads, doncha think?
Sure. That is why I remove the caliper bolts to look at them ;)
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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I check mine every tire change, so take the time to clean the piston up, etc. while I'm there. Given the issues folks seem to be having with seized pin bolts, certainly if you're going to check without wheel removal, then as prevention, remove the pins and put some anti-seize on the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well, I appear to be OK. I ran a new die down over the bolt / slide and a new tap through the threaded hole. I was then able to thread a good M10 x 1.25 nut over the bolt / slide, and I was able to screw a good bolt through the threaded hole with just my fingers. Everything felt smooth, so I put it back together with new grease on the slide and a bit of anti-sieze on the threads. Threads felt good going in place, and I was able to torque them to the 19 ft lb prescribed in the manual. I'll keep it watched, and I do still have the used unit coming as a fall-back if necessary.

Next, I'm planning to install the new front tire and brake pads Sunday. I hope I don' destroy anything there. LOL

Thanks again to all of you for your input. You've been most helpful.
 
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