[Oldjeep]

Heat it up with a torch and try some penetrating oil. Those like to seize and rip the threads out of the caliper

 

[Oldjeep]

Might want to check ebay for a used caliper. I actually have a good one on the shelf for a Gen 2 (used) that I bought because I thought I had ripped all the threads out of mine - turned out I only pulled a couple so I didn't swap it out.

 

[Oldjeep]

I wonder what years are interchangeable. There's a 2006 on eBay, but it includes the backing plate. I'd probably destroy it as well trying to get it apart.

Thanks again.

Look up your caliper on partzilla - then scroll to the applications list. It'll show you everywhere that yamaha used that exact part number

 

[Oldjeep]

I'd stick with something that says it is for caliper pins. I have some tub of generic brake grease that I bought a million years ago since you use so little. Equally important is to put a little antisieze on those threads.

 

[Oldjeep]

You shouldn't have to remove #6 to simply change pads...

Huh? How are you going to push the piston back in, even if you could get the pads off without removing the caliper?

 

[Oldjeep]

Maybe I'm wrong, but I could swear that I had the pads out during tire change. If that's possible it's typically possible to push the pistons in by hand or using a lever of some sort. I'll have to check this - I need to check my pads shortly anyway...

Maybe you could get the pads out if you removed the caliper bracket from the bike (removed rear wheel - or at least the axle and spacer). Doesn't seem like that would be possible, but I have not tried it. If you took the caliper bracket off the bike - then yes you could easily compress the piston, even with the pads still sitting in the bracket/caliper. Couldn't grease the caliper pins completely with them still installed, which would be an issue.

 

[Oldjeep]

I personally hate using Helicoils unless the part that is messed up is super expensive. But if you do go that route, pick up the big metric kit from Northern Tool. It'll cost $60-$70 which is about double what a kit for just a single size typically costs.

 

[Oldjeep]

Maybe you could get the pads out if you removed the caliper bracket from the bike (removed rear wheel - or at least the axle and spacer). Doesn't seem like that would be possible, but I have not tried it. If you took the caliper bracket off the bike - then yes you could easily compress the piston, even with the pads still sitting in the bracket/caliper. Couldn't grease the caliper pins completely with them still installed, which would be an issue.

Thinking about this some more, since the pins are attached to the caliper and not the bracket. With it removed from the bike, I suppose the whole caliper could slide out of the carrier taking the pads with it since the pins just ride in the carrier.

 

[Oldjeep]

Silicone brake grease won't melt under higher pressures........ BTW, I never remove the slide bolt... why? Just slide the caliper apart, grease it and slide it back together... EZ PZ.
Clean the piston while you're at it, then remove the cap off the reservoir and push your piston back in.

You guys are why those things are siezed

 

[Oldjeep]

So convince me why I would ever want to remove that pin?

Why would you want to remove the axle to change brake pads? Or are you saying there is some way to pull the caliper off with the caliper bracket in place?

 

[Oldjeep]

To me, inspecting/replacing rear brake pads gets done in conjunction with rear wheel removal for tire replacement. It's not a task that I'll do on its own. Just like drive shaft & u-joint. Kinda silly to pull the axle for brake pads, doncha think?

Sure. That is why I remove the caliper bolts to look at them