Rear brake pad replacement

Oldjeep said:

Heat it up with a torch and try some penetrating oil. Those like to seize and rip the threads out of the caliper

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That's as I feared. And it looks like only way to replace it is to buy the whole shebang which isn't available for 26-30 days . I'm trying to get this thing ready for a 5000-mile trip

Thanks for the prompt response.

Oldjeep said:

Might want to check ebay for a used caliper. I actually have a good one on the shelf for a Gen 2 (used) that I bought because I thought I had ripped all the threads out of mine - turned out I only pulled a couple so I didn't swap it out.

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I wonder what years are interchangeable. There's a 2006 on eBay, but it includes the backing plate. I'd probably destroy it as well trying to get it apart.

Thanks again.

Oldjeep said:

Look up your caliper on partzilla - then scroll to the applications list. It'll show you everywhere that yamaha used that exact part number

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Huh. I didn't realize you could do that. 2006 is shown. Thx once again.

Got it out. The threads on the bolt are not good, but I'm hoping to chase the threads out in the caliper and be OK. I think they're M10 x 1.25, but can anyone verify that?

And the book calls for silicone grease on the slides. Is slilcone dielectric OK?

EricV said:

You want silicone brake grease. Sold at any auto parts store under a couple of brands. Sometimes they have the little one time use packets at the counter too.

If you can get a replacement bolt, you could helicoil the caliper mount easily enough and end that problem forever. Take the good slider pin to the hardware store and find out the size/pitch if you don't have measurement tools.

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I've never done a helicoil, but if the tap doesn't work how much worse could I make it? LOL

Linton West said:

Give everything a good clean with brake and allow wheels cleaner, make sure to rinse it well. I use Girling/Lucas green brake grease, which is for use with braking components and use it on the pins as it is essential that the caliper can slide on those pins for the rear brake to work properly. The rear wheel should spin easilly, if it does not the brakes are sticking.

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Ah. I was searching "silicone grease" and finding everything but brake grease. I searched "brake grease" and got it. Thx.

Oldjeep said:

I personally hate using Helicoils unless the part that is messed up is super expensive. But if you do go that route, pick up the big metric kit from Northern Tool. It'll cost $60-$70 which is about double what a kit for just a single size typically costs.

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I ordered a caliper with pads and a carrier on eBay for $25. The pads in the photo look pretty good, so if all else fails maybe I can bolt it on and hope it is actually in good shape. Like I said, I'm trying to get ready for a 5000-mile trip and trying everything I can. I could buy the whole shebang for $251 (#3) but it wouldn't ship for 26 to 31 days. We'll see how it goes.

rbentnail said:

When is the trip? Sounds like less than a month based on stated delivery worries. I hope you've learned a valuable lesson here Grasshoppah- never, EVER do anything to the bike for at least 2 weeks, 4 is better, before a planned trip. And you found out why- delivery time of a replacement if something goes wrong. Plan way ahead, get things done way, way in advance and coast with your mind at ease on your trip. Mechanic-ing like this should be done at least 2 months in advance. It's not like you're going to wear out brake pads before you leave.

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I actually did think I was giving it plenty of time. I'm leaving June 10. I've mounted new tires even though I could have done another 1000 miles on the old. But like you say I wanted to get the tires on and check things out with plenty of time if needed. Since I replaced the rear pads rather easily last time with the rear wheel in place that's what I planned. Didn't work so well this time. If I ordered the new caliper from Partzilla (with the carrier, pads, yada, yada) they say plan for 26 to 31 days. That's cutting it too tight for me or I'd just order the blasted thing.

I see now from this thread and looking at mine how pads could be installed with the wheel off and not removing the pins. I do check the pads each time I have the wheel off and will do that in the future. I have a used caliper coming. If it's in good shape, I'm good to go.

And that's "Mister Grasshoppah" to you.

Well, I appear to be OK. I ran a new die down over the bolt / slide and a new tap through the threaded hole. I was then able to thread a good M10 x 1.25 nut over the bolt / slide, and I was able to screw a good bolt through the threaded hole with just my fingers. Everything felt smooth, so I put it back together with new grease on the slide and a bit of anti-sieze on the threads. Threads felt good going in place, and I was able to torque them to the 19 ft lb prescribed in the manual. I'll keep it watched, and I do still have the used unit coming as a fall-back if necessary.

Next, I'm planning to install the new front tire and brake pads Sunday. I hope I don' destroy anything there. LOL

Thanks again to all of you for your input. You've been most helpful.