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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to replace my rear brake pads and cannot get one of the bolts (#6 below) out (pin slides on Partzilla). The front one came out easily, but the rear one came out a small amount and seems to have bound up. Now it won't go in our out. I don't want to force it. Anyone got any ideas?

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Heat it up with a torch and try some penetrating oil. Those like to seize and rip the threads out of the caliper
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Heat it up with a torch and try some penetrating oil. Those like to seize and rip the threads out of the caliper
That's as I feared. And it looks like only way to replace it is to buy the whole shebang which isn't available for 26-30 days . I'm trying to get this thing ready for a 5000-mile trip :rolleyes:

Thanks for the prompt response.
 

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Might want to check ebay for a used caliper. I actually have a good one on the shelf for a Gen 2 (used) that I bought because I thought I had ripped all the threads out of mine - turned out I only pulled a couple so I didn't swap it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Might want to check ebay for a used caliper. I actually have a good one on the shelf for a Gen 2 (used) that I bought because I thought I had ripped all the threads out of mine - turned out I only pulled a couple so I didn't swap it out.
I wonder what years are interchangeable. There's a 2006 on eBay, but it includes the backing plate. I'd probably destroy it as well trying to get it apart. :rolleyes:

Thanks again.
 

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I wonder what years are interchangeable. There's a 2006 on eBay, but it includes the backing plate. I'd probably destroy it as well trying to get it apart. :rolleyes:

Thanks again.
Look up your caliper on partzilla - then scroll to the applications list. It'll show you everywhere that yamaha used that exact part number
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Look up your caliper on partzilla - then scroll to the applications list. It'll show you everywhere that yamaha used that exact part number
Huh. I didn't realize you could do that. 2006 is shown. Thx once again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got it out. The threads on the bolt are not good, but I'm hoping to chase the threads out in the caliper and be OK. I think they're M10 x 1.25, but can anyone verify that?

And the book calls for silicone grease on the slides. Is slilcone dielectric OK?
 

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I'd stick with something that says it is for caliper pins. I have some tub of generic brake grease that I bought a million years ago since you use so little. Equally important is to put a little antisieze on those threads.
 

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Huh? How are you going to push the piston back in, even if you could get the pads off without removing the caliper?
Maybe I'm wrong, but I could swear that I had the pads out during tire change. If that's possible it's typically possible to push the pistons in by hand or using a lever of some sort. I'll have to check this - I need to check my pads shortly anyway...
 

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Maybe I'm wrong, but I could swear that I had the pads out during tire change. If that's possible it's typically possible to push the pistons in by hand or using a lever of some sort. I'll have to check this - I need to check my pads shortly anyway...
Maybe you could get the pads out if you removed the caliper bracket from the bike (removed rear wheel - or at least the axle and spacer). Doesn't seem like that would be possible, but I have not tried it. If you took the caliper bracket off the bike - then yes you could easily compress the piston, even with the pads still sitting in the bracket/caliper. Couldn't grease the caliper pins completely with them still installed, which would be an issue.
 

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You want silicone brake grease. Sold at any auto parts store under a couple of brands. Sometimes they have the little one time use packets at the counter too.

If you can get a replacement bolt, you could helicoil the caliper mount easily enough and end that problem forever. Take the good slider pin to the hardware store and find out the size/pitch if you don't have measurement tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You want silicone brake grease. Sold at any auto parts store under a couple of brands. Sometimes they have the little one time use packets at the counter too.

If you can get a replacement bolt, you could helicoil the caliper mount easily enough and end that problem forever. Take the good slider pin to the hardware store and find out the size/pitch if you don't have measurement tools.
I've never done a helicoil, but if the tap doesn't work how much worse could I make it? LOL
 

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Give everything a good clean with brake and allow wheels cleaner, make sure to rinse it well. I use Girling/Lucas green brake grease, which is for use with braking components and use it on the pins as it is essential that the caliper can slide on those pins for the rear brake to work properly. The rear wheel should spin easilly, if it does not the brakes are sticking.
 

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I personally hate using Helicoils unless the part that is messed up is super expensive. But if you do go that route, pick up the big metric kit from Northern Tool. It'll cost $60-$70 which is about double what a kit for just a single size typically costs.
 

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I've never done a helicoil, but if the tap doesn't work how much worse could I make it? LOL
OEMs often use helicoils for aluminum parts that will be end user disassembled for service. Steel thread insert in the aluminum part. You can buy an individual kit that comes with the correct size drill bit, helicoil tap, installation tools and several helicoils, plus instructions. It's not a difficult job for most people comfortable with drilling and turning bolts.

My concern on just tapping the hole is how much material is left to tap. Taps remove material. A thread repair tool will form what's left w/o removing material, but that's a specialized tool that's not usually found at the local hardware store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Give everything a good clean with brake and allow wheels cleaner, make sure to rinse it well. I use Girling/Lucas green brake grease, which is for use with braking components and use it on the pins as it is essential that the caliper can slide on those pins for the rear brake to work properly. The rear wheel should spin easilly, if it does not the brakes are sticking.
Ah. I was searching "silicone grease" and finding everything but brake grease. I searched "brake grease" and got it. Thx.
 
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