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I wouldn't trust a dealership to lay eyes on it let alone touch it. My '07 went to 2 different dealerships early in its life and both times came back with broken and missing parts. IMNSHO you're better off trusting an unskilled blind man doing his own work than you are any dealership "certified" mechanic. Here's my first visit's results -> Need fjr advice
 

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I definitely would not bring it to a mechanic, anything that would be interesting to check would cost a bundle. The rest of the stuff should be easily figured out by looking at it, and maybe a test ride. I do have to say that for someone talking about buying a bike to do iron butt rides you seem to be really unsure about a simple purchase. It's only going to get worse when you decide to start doing 1000 mile days.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I definitely would not bring it to a mechanic, anything that would be interesting to check would cost a bundle. The rest of the stuff should be easily figured out by looking at it, and maybe a test ride. I do have to say that for someone talking about buying a bike to do iron butt rides you seem to be really unsure about a simple purchase. It's only going to get worse when you decide to start doing 1000 mile days.

Good luck
It's not that I'm unsure, I've just had bad experiences with owners trying to hide problems with their bikes. I didn't really think getting it checked out at a dealer was a great idea but a friend of mine suggested it and I thought I'd check with the people on this forum.

I am unfamiliar with the FJR and because of that, I don't see anything wrong with being overly cautious.
 

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It's not that I'm unsure, I've just had bad experiences with owners trying to hide problems with their bikes. I didn't really think getting it checked out at a dealer was a great idea but a friend of mine suggested it and I thought I'd check with the people on this forum.

I am unfamiliar with the FJR and because of that, I don't see anything wrong with being overly cautious.
Any 14 year old vehicle you buy is a pig in a poke. Buy it, deal with the consequences ;)
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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Likely nothing wrong with the bike, just get caught up on the scheduled maintenance and it will be fine. Very reliable..... save up yer money for that new seat and windshield you might want to replace.......
 

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2008 FJR/AE
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Likely nothing wrong with the bike, just get caught up on the scheduled maintenance and it will be fine. Very reliable..... save up yer money for that new seat and windshield you might want to replace.......
^^^good advice^^^

I'll add, you'll need to farkle it up a little to your spec's anyway. So, some things won't make a huge difference. I will bet I have spent more in farkles than on my initial purchase. And... I'm not NEAR as bad as some of the competing iron-butter's. Some of them have more in computers, dual-navigation, night-vision, and excess fuel systems than I can imagine. Crazy SOB's... (actually a title-of-honor if you know any of them...)
 
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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
UPDATE: I met with the owner today and chatted about the bike. Tons of green flags, he's taken care of the FJR amazingly well. I would say that it looks basically brand new. He's kept service records and has owned another 5 bikes over the past 50 years. To answer a few questions raised earlier in this thread:

The harness was recalled sometime in 2010, and the owner has had no problems since then.

No issues with the rear shock linkage, but that doesn't mean there will be a problem in the future.

He does not have the valve check clearance readings, but the u-joints were lubed during the last major service (40k miles).

I could not check the cam chain tensioner as I couldn't see it at the time.

Everything looks great and after talking to the owner for 2+ hours I've gotten a good read of him. The one red flag is... the owner didn't let me ride the bike. His insurance wouldn't cover test rides and I currently do not have active insurance because I am in-between motorcycles. He did take me for a test ride with me riding as a passenger, it shifts smoothly, handles well, no weird noises. The bike looks to be in perfect mechanical condition, I just haven't been able to test-ride it.

I'm almost certain I will buy the bike but maybe ask for $100-$200 off the price tag as I cannot ride it. Not sure if he'll budge, he said the price was pretty firm.

Let me know what you think.
 

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Not too unusual that someone will not let you ride a bike, especially a big powerful one.
The test ride on my FZ1 was a minute after I handed the owner the cash and rode it home. Didn't blame him a bit for not wanting some random bozo to test ride a 149HP bike.
Sounds like you should buy it if you want it.
 
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If I had found one like your describing I would definitely have bought it. I'm happy with mine so far but I do wish I had thought to really examine the rear shock more closely, it will need to be replaced before too long and that is not cheap and certainly would have been a solid bargaining chip.
I also wouldn't interpret the test ride as a red flag; all the bikes I looked at during my search required asking price in hand to allow a test ride (just in case).
At any rate, glad you found a nice one (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
If I had found one like your describing I would definitely have bought it. I'm happy with mine so far but I do wish I had thought to really examine the rear shock more closely, it will need to be replaced before too long and that is not cheap and certainly would have been a solid bargaining chip.
I also wouldn't interpret the test ride as a red flag; all the bikes I looked at during my search required asking price in hand to allow a test ride (just in case).
At any rate, glad you found a nice one (y)
Thanks! When I go back (maybe tomorrow or Saturday) I’ll take a look at the rear shock more. What should I look for?
 

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unless it is leaking, I don't know what you will see. A used gen 3 stock shock is a nice cheap upgrade
 
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Check the STATIC Sag.if you can lift the rear of the bike up more than just a small amount either the shock is going away OR the preload is very very soft OR spring is sacking out.Any of these is not good.
To check this stand on the left side of the bike with your right hip or both thighs against the seat and
( pull up on the back of the frame or whatever you can get hold of until it tops out.Make sure it tops out.
OR Even better. have the owner hold the bike straight up and you lift the rear.) should be very little movement if any at all.
NEXT:
REBOUND =push down on the passenger seat.( bike upright)The suspension should come back to STATIC position immediately.
If it is slow returning the shock is bad.
Look for leakage on the shiny chrome metal shaft at the middle of the shock.Wipe it with fingers not a rag to detect oil leakage.
If any found shock is bad.
Hope this helps you out.
P.S. I would offer 500.00 less than asking price and go from there.
 

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IMHO quit dragging your feet or you'll find it sold to someone else. If you like it, buy it and deal with the other stuff later.

No insurance for a test ride? Unless you put the asking price, in cash, in my hand I wouldn't let you ride mine either. And I surely would not have ridden you on it. Sounds to me like he's gone above and beyond.
 

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UPDATE: I met with the owner today and chatted about the bike. Tons of green flags, he's taken care of the FJR amazingly well. I would say that it looks basically brand new. He's kept service records . . . .

Everything looks great and after talking to the owner for 2+ hours . . . .

I'm almost certain I will buy the bike but maybe ask for $100-$200 off the price tag . . . .

Let me know what you think.
Ok, being you asked what I think - not only are you almost certain to buy it but THE GUY SPENT OVER TWO HOURS showing you the bike and answering ALL YOUR QUESTIONS. Are you really going to try and chew him down for a couple of hundred after that?? I dunno and I wasn't there but if I was in the seller's boots and you asked for a hundred off I'd be tempted to add a hundred on just on principle.

Besides, if the bike gives you years of enjoyment, average out that little savings over how many months of riding. Are you really going to notice the difference when it's all said and done?

Remember, you asked. :)
 

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I have a 2014 with 61000 miles. Miles do not matter its all in the care.
The title says it all. Currently looking at picking up one of these beautiful bikes. The seller is asking $5,000.
  • Single Owner
  • Never Dropped
  • Full maintenance record
What should I look for when I look at the bike/look through the maintenance record? Is this a good price? Would it be smart or insulting to haggle lower? I've heard these bikes can go for 100k+ miles if taken care of, so is 55k miles something to be worried about? Any insight is greatly appreciated!
I bought A 2006 63,000 MILES one owner all maintenance. Great bike zero problems couldn't be happier and I think you'll be just as happy. I ride and suddenly I'm smiling.
 

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1) It's a used bike.
2) Don't expect it to be brand new everywhere.
3) Do expect to do some maintenance and/or repairs.
4) See number 1.

Do you like it? buy it before it's gone. I don't allow test rides without cash in MY hand. He's treated you pretty well, stop wasting his time.
 
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The title says it all. Currently looking at picking up one of these beautiful bikes. The seller is asking $5,000.
  • Single Owner
  • Never Dropped
  • Full maintenance record
What should I look for when I look at the bike/look through the maintenance record? Is this a good price? Would it be smart or insulting to haggle lower?
I've heard these bikes can go for 100k+ miles if taken care of, so is 55k miles something to be worried about?

Any insight is greatly appreciated!
A year and a half ago I purchased a 2014 for about 1200 more than what you're paying with the same mileage and it's a nice bike.
 

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Before you go back on Saturday ask the guy if he'll let you take it for a test ride if you give him the cash with the understanding that if there's something amis and you bring the bike back as it left his garage that you get your cash back. You can also call your insurance company and confirm that your current moto policy will cover any test rides. If not, you can add his bike to your policy with the expectation that you're buying it and if you don't then you just cancel it right away. This will cover you for any test ride and the ride home if you buy.

Some other things to look at if you haven't already:

  • Make sure the bike is cold when you see it and watch the tail pipes when you start it. If the weather is cold there might be some condensation but you don't want any white smoke (oil burning)
  • Check tires, oil, brake fluid, etc. Turn the key on (leave bike off) and make sure the glove box door opens and make sure the brake light is activated with the front and rear brake levers.
  • With the bike on the center stand, spin the rear wheel and try to wiggle it. Also see if someone can push the rear end down while you spin the front wheel
  • Check the throttle. Does it spring back to neutral or stick? If it sticks, turn the bike on and see if it still sticks. Don't ride a moto if the throttle is sticking
  • During the test ride:
- Check the brakes before you get any real speed going. Make sure it doesn't pull
- On a straight, take your hands off the bars and see if the bike tracks straight. With hands on the bars and going straight, look down at the bars to make sure they're aligned properly - you don't want to see the bars skewed left or right with the bike going straight
- At low speed, does the bike surge/sputter
- Are there any misses when accelerating
- Does the windshield go up and down? Are the heated grips getting hot?
- Note anything else that doesn't feel right
  • Take a flashlight and inspect around and under the fairings. Any fluids? Are any fairings cracked, missing bolts/plastic plugs? The fairings should all be solid - try moving individual pieces - if you find movement, try and track it down. A bolt or plug might be missing or it could be cracked.
  • Try and wiggle each mirror. There should be zero movement. If they move/wiggle at the base (where they connect to the bike), the Fairing Stay is broken/cracked. This is an expensive part and a few hours or more of your time to replace.
  • Remove the seats. Factory tool kit? Misc wires from "upgrades"? Etc
  • Look around the oil drain plug and filter - any signs of leaks? ALso check the rear pumpkin and water pump (on the right side of the bike)
  • Make sure the side bags are properly mounted and nothing is broken

Without taking the fairings off, etc it will be hard to see much more but if you begin to see any red flags, then its an indication there's more.
 

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Before you go back on Saturday ask the guy if he'll let you take it for a test ride if you give him the cash with the understanding that if there's something amis and you bring the bike back as it left his garage that you get your cash back. You can also call your insurance company and confirm that your current moto policy will cover any test rides. If not, you can add his bike to your policy with the expectation that you're buying it and if you don't then you just cancel it right away. This will cover you for any test ride and the ride home if you buy.

Some other things to look at if you haven't already:

  • Make sure the bike is cold when you see it and watch the tail pipes when you start it. If the weather is cold there might be some condensation but you don't want any white smoke (oil burning)
  • Check tires, oil, brake fluid, etc. Turn the key on (leave bike off) and make sure the glove box door opens and make sure the brake light is activated with the front and rear brake levers.
  • With the bike on the center stand, spin the rear wheel and try to wiggle it. Also see if someone can push the rear end down while you spin the front wheel
  • Check the throttle. Does it spring back to neutral or stick? If it sticks, turn the bike on and see if it still sticks. Don't ride a moto if the throttle is sticking
  • During the test ride:
- Check the brakes before you get any real speed going. Make sure it doesn't pull
- On a straight, take your hands off the bars and see if the bike tracks straight. With hands on the bars and going straight, look down at the bars to make sure they're aligned properly - you don't want to see the bars skewed left or right with the bike going straight
- At low speed, does the bike surge/sputter
- Are there any misses when accelerating
- Does the windshield go up and down? Are the heated grips getting hot?
- Note anything else that doesn't feel right
  • Take a flashlight and inspect around and under the fairings. Any fluids? Are any fairings cracked, missing bolts/plastic plugs? The fairings should all be solid - try moving individual pieces - if you find movement, try and track it down. A bolt or plug might be missing or it could be cracked.
  • Try and wiggle each mirror. There should be zero movement. If they move/wiggle at the base (where they connect to the bike), the Fairing Stay is broken/cracked. This is an expensive part and a few hours or more of your time to replace.
  • Remove the seats. Factory tool kit? Misc wires from "upgrades"? Etc
  • Look around the oil drain plug and filter - any signs of leaks? ALso check the rear pumpkin and water pump (on the right side of the bike)
  • Make sure the side bags are properly mounted and nothing is broken

Without taking the fairings off, etc it will be hard to see much more but if you begin to see any red flags, then its an indication there's more.
If you came to my house expecting to remove parts and go through all that I'd give you about an hr then you either buy it or you don't. if you're that worried about it go buy a new bike and quit wasting my time.
 
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