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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does Pirelli Angel 190/50-17 cure the speedometer error? They also show a 190/55-17. I have a sheet on tire dimensions for Dunlop and Metzeler but can't find the same for Pirelli.
 

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The aspect ratio is the height of the sidewall expressed as a percentage of the width. So a 180/55 has a sidewall height of 99mm. A 190/50 is less tall at 95mm, so virtually the same.
By all reports your Gen3 US speedo is off 3% and a 190/55 will almost correct the speedo error...... no such luck up here where the error is 7%. I never look at it any more, use my GPS speed.
 

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Fun anecdote... My spedo lights don't work on the left side of my dial so instead of doing the responsible (and probably easiest) thing and just buying and replacing what I assume is a $1.99 bulb from Auto Zone I memorized the speed by tach and gear. That probably is of no help at all considering the diameter/rotation change but fun none the less.

Another fun anecdote... Every truck I have owned for the past 20 years I have got with stock tires and then changed them immediately to 35" and never calibrated the ODO. So when I sell the truck's I actually end up getting 10k-12k free miles. This also doesn't help at all.

Helpful advice: Don't look at the speedo, we all know how fast we are going. We have been doing this long enough we can look at the road and tell. (In legal speeds) I start to look after 80mph.
 

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Fun anecdote- I prefer the Gen2 analog needle to the Gen3 numerical display. I had memorized the needle positions. With the display I actually have to read!
If I ever had a LED display I would swap it and sell the new one on EBAY. Just sayin. There is something perfect about dials that cannot be improved upon. Kids these days can't even read a clock so they give em the numbers.
 

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Dials can be digital too.... they are on some of the bikes with TFT displays.
StreamRider, there are some old threads somewhere about changing all the Gen1 instrument bulbs to LED.
 
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I was under the impression you need a ballast or something to cut the voltage down as well like with the turn signals. The PO did install an auxiliary LED light bar for high beams that I use frequently. Is there something that can reduce the power for the entire bikes lighting system or would I have to do each component to change the dash/lights/signals etc.?
 

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I was under the impression you need a ballast or something to cut the voltage down as well like with the turn signals. The PO did install an auxiliary LED light bar for high beams that I use frequently. Is there something that can reduce the power for the entire bikes lighting system or would I have to do each component to change the dash/lights/signals etc.?
You don't need anything special to use LED bulbs for anything but turn signals. The only reason you need to switch to a different flasher when using LED signal bulbs is that they don't pull enough power to trigger the normal flasher. (Or some people add resistors, which eliminates one of the benefits of the LED bulbs - by making them suck more power)
 

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A bunch of old codgers around here. I love the numerical readout of the Gen 3+ speedometer. So easy to see in an instant. AFAIAC, the Gen II speedometer sucked. Too small of graduations made it difficult to read. My personal favorite however, is the Gen I.

Yes, 190/55 will help with speedometer error. Running a car tire will help even more. Depends on what Gen you have. Gen I - a little error. Gen II - more error. Gen III+ - the least error. A car tire on my Gen III+ make the speedometer dead nuts accurate. Almost the same on my Gen I.
 
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A bunch of old codgers around here. I love the numerical readout of the Gen 3+ speedometer. So easy to see in an instant. AFAIAC, the Gen II speedometer sucked. Too small of graduations made it difficult to read. My personal favorite however, is the Gen I.

Yes, 190/55 will help with speedometer error. Running a car tire will help even more. Depends on what Gen you have. Gen I - a little error. Gen II - more error. Gen III+ - the least error. A car tire on my Gen III+ make the speedometer dead nuts accurate. Almost the same on my Gen I.
You had me at Gen 1 car tire. <3 <3
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A bunch of old codgers around here. I love the numerical readout of the Gen 3+ speedometer. So easy to see in an instant. AFAIAC, the Gen II speedometer sucked. Too small of graduations made it difficult to read. My personal favorite however, is the Gen I.

Yes, 190/55 will help with speedometer error. Running a car tire will help even more. Depends on what Gen you have. Gen I - a little error. Gen II - more error. Gen III+ - the least error. A car tire on my Gen III+ make the speedometer dead nuts accurate. Almost the same on my Gen I.
You and I are a lot alike. I can read the display on my 14 much better than on the 08. Used to keep a map on the tank bag. Not anymore, can't see it well enough to navigate so if you see an old fart on a red FJR with his road atlas out, that's me.

Currently running a 160/70 17 Roadsmart and 80 on the speedo is actually 81 GPS so probably just stay with that setup.
 

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I was under the impression you need a ballast or something to cut the voltage down as well like with the turn signals. The PO did install an auxiliary LED light bar for high beams that I use frequently. Is there something that can reduce the power for the entire bikes lighting system or would I have to do each component to change the dash/lights/signals etc.?
You are not cutting the voltage down on turn signals.... adding a resistor to keep the same flash rate, or changing the flasher to one compatible with LED's.
Your dash lights are simply swapping LED's in for the incandescents for brighter backlighting. Nothing else to do.
 
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You are not cutting the voltage down on turn signals.... adding a resistor to keep the same flash rate, or changing the flasher to one compatible with LED's.
Your dash lights are simply swapping LED's in for the incandescents for brighter backlighting. Nothing else to do.
Wow okay had no idea after delving into the depths of the LED headlight postings.
 
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