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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm very happy with these so far! Put about 3-400 miles on them this weekend...with nothing but good things to say. I'm usually a cheapo when it comes to tires...I've used Conti Motions and Road attacks in the past and like them on my VFR, but I just wear them out fast. Rears in 3-3500...fronts in 4000-4500. Unfortunately, the combination of size and the ability to still really hoon on an FJR makes those cheaper tires no match for the long haul. At full lean the GT's track very very well with no sign of slippage or inconsistency. As for longevity I'll just have to find out through use. I have to admit I am a bit skeptical they will last 7,8,9000 miles like some people say with the way that I tend to ride....but that would be awesome! They look great too! A+

-Side note: I like to "fat side" my rear with a 190/55...(personal preference). I noticed these have a slightly different profile than the Conti 190/55's. Theres more chicken strip visible on the rear after pushing it ..maybe 1 inch or so vs the 1/2inch on the Conti's...but time will tell if that remains the case.
 

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I ran the 190's as well, same, chicken strips will be a tad wider.
 
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I have 9000 and I estimate another 5-6000 km. I usually drive with two people using a freeway and country roads. I always have a good feeling when cornering and braking. The only thing I do not like is that they have more rolling noise. So far I have been running with bridgestone and pirelli. I'm thinking of going back to t30.
 

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PR4 front will be prone to noise, I'd chose a different front.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have 9000 and I estimate another 5-6000 km. I usually drive with two people using a freeway and country roads. I always have a good feeling when cornering and braking. The only thing I do not like is that they have more rolling noise. So far I have been running with bridgestone and pirelli. I'm thinking of going back to t30.
Thats pretty good mileage! I doubt the road noise will bother me. Between earplugs, my Sena playing music, and the air turbulence, I don't really hear the road. Honestly up to about 80, my naked bike is quieter:LOL:

PR4 front will be prone to noise, I'd chose a different front.
How many miles do you see per set?
 

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I got about 11,000km out of a set of PR4GTs and by then the rear was worn to the cords and the front was worn bald, both sides of centre. The PR4GTs are the first set of tires I've ever owned where I actually replaced the front before the rear (actually they were both equally worn when I changed the front and I pushed the rear another 800km before the cords showed). Also, I hated the handling of the front after about 4,000-5,000km.

Currently running a Shinko 009 Raven front and a PR4GT rear and so far (about 1,000km) I'm impressed with the Shinko.

Haynes
 
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I have about 13,000mi on my front PR4 (not GT) and it still has a fair amount of tread on it, I run it with 40psi. No complaints at all, it was quite noisey when it was new, so much so I was going to take it back but within 200mi it was pretty much quiet and has been since.

The PR4 replaced a nearly new Shinko 009 because of severe steering head shake that I had and the dealer’s service manager was convinced that it was because of my “cheap” Shinko,,, it wasn’t and the Shinko will go back on once the PR4 wears out. I currently have a Shinko Verge on the back with not many miles on it so the jury is still out on it, but it seems ok. Although it seems to be wearing some for as new as it is, but I had been pretty hard on the throttle after my clutch issues a couple of years ago.

We’ll see !
 

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Talking front tires, the PR4 tread pattern will be noisier and prone to cupping/scalloping whatever you want to call it, rather obvious when you look at it. PR3's were similar but softer, I don't know anyone who was really in love with them. I ran Metzeler Z6's on the front mostly.

Talking rears, the PR4 has about the right compound for the variety of riding, similar mileage to Haynes. My CBF came with a new set of Raven 009's.... about 15,000 km (9300 miles) the rear was just down to the wear bars, the front has about 1/3 - 1/2 of it left. However, 525 lb. bike and I ran more "slab" than I would have liked. I think the Ravens are slightly harder than PR4, but I had no issues with grip and I ran in a lot of rain last fall.

Your tire wear is your tire wear for the most part, your pressures and riding style. Get a general opinion and try them is all you can do. I look for grip, good in the wet and the cooler temperatures.... in other words, I don't use the highest mileage harder compounds, particularly in rear tires. Don't be afraid to try different tires and don't get hung up on "matched sets".
 
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So the '15 I bought used came with PR4 GT's on it. They have plenty of tread left but already have some cupping/scalloping (I grab some pics later). I know they are highly rated but I see a lot of posts on several boards about their tendency to cup. I have been a big fan of Pirelli Angel GT's, GREAT grip, predictable, good in the rain and I get at least 6-7K miles out of them before I switch them out (I never wait until bald, always at the first sign of hitting the wear bars) and they always wear evenly.

I know there are several reasons for the odd wear, bad suspension settings, poor air pressures, road surface, etc. My question is if I address the issues that can cause the odd wear pattern, can the current cupped tires be restored to normal wear? I'd like to see what these tires are all about and would hate having to trash them with so much life left.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Takes me about 35-40min to get to the "mini mountains" near me....and takes about 1hr to get to the real ones. So the tires will be on slab for at least a couple hours every weekend joyride...but when I'm in the real mountains, I could end up spending 2-3hrs basically just on the sides of the tires. I loved the wear on the Conti's, but the center would wear out when i still had another 1000miles on the sides left. I'm hoping these will wear the same but all at the same time!
 

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Angel GT's good tires, front and rear. Normally you can't fix a cupped tire, but I have had partial success if it's minor... basically increase the pressure and ride those twisties. But, once gone so far, no fixing it. There will be no fixing a front PR4 IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Angel GT's good tires, front and rear. Normally you can't fix a cupped tire, but I have had partial success if it's minor... basically increase the pressure and ride those twisties. But, once gone so far, no fixing it. There will be no fixing a front PR4 IMHO.
I wonder if fatsiding the rear will be better or worse for the profile in this scenario...lol
 

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Pilot Road GT4s can be had pretty reasonable right now. Both Revzilla and Rocky Mountain ATV have them for about $300 a pair. I've run a set of them in the past, and they are solid tires, especially in the rain. The front cupping is an issue though.

My current tires are Dunlop Roadsmart 2s. They are shockingly good tires for how cheap they were. Lots of miles and great traction, even pushing hard in the Rockies. Unfortunately I can't find them anymore. The new iteration aren't near so cheap. They are also prone to cupping on the front. My front looks like dog poo, and there's probably another 1000 Miles on the rear.
 

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Imho, cupping is not a tire created issue, as i said above I have a little over 13k on my front PR4 and will say that there is no cupping on it, a very slight amount of feathering but no cupping.

the oe “Stone” was severely cupped to the point of feeling & sounding like rumble strips when pulling up to a stop. What changed ? Tapered steering head bearings ! That has been the case on every bike I’ve had that cupped the tires. But I’ll add that you must keep retorqueing the bearings after some use until it maintains it’s torque.
 

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Higher tire pressures = less cupping. I run 40-42 psi in the front. Also, if you want to reduce cupping and extend the life of the front tire, reduce the amount of front braking you do while leaned over. Hard braking while leaned over = accelerated cupping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Imho, cupping is not a tire created issue, as i said above I have a little over 13k on my front PR4 and will say that there is no cupping on it, a very slight amount of feathering but no cupping.

the oe “Stone” was severely cupped to the point of feeling & sounding like rumble strips when pulling up to a stop. What changed ? Tapered steering head bearings ! That has been the case on every bike I’ve had that cupped the tires. But I’ll add that you must keep retorqueing the bearings after some use until it maintains it’s torque.
I wish I knew if the old MCL triple tree setup came with new steering bearings as part of the package...because thats whats on my bike. No idea if my bearings are stock or not, but I'm hoping given the mods that were already done to it, that the previous dude did them too🤷‍♂️

Higher tire pressures = less cupping. I run 40-42 psi in the front. Also, if you want to reduce cupping and extend the life of the front tire, reduce the amount of front braking you do while leaned over. Hard braking while leaned over = accelerated cupping.
Yeah I run 42 back, 40 front. I try to trail brake as much as possible, but I do occasionally get caught coming in slightly too hot and use the fronts.....which sucks because you have to keep them dragging the whole turn or you'll upset the bike:LOL:
 

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I have the MCL setup and no it didn't include the steering head bearings not to say that it couldn't have been done at the time but they are two different issues. I haven't changed the bearings on my bike still running the stock ones. I would try contacting the seller probably the only way to check without disassembly. Just my $.02. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've never had a cupping or scalloping problem with PR4s.
I'm betting it has a lot to do with riding style and PSI. I use a healthy amount of pressure and my riding tends to be a healthy balance because of commuting to the twisties. Fingers crossed...I've never owned higher mileage tires before, to be honest :LOL:
 
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