Just my 0.02
Before complicating things with the linked brake system rule out the obvious.
Check if that those worn pads have the pistons sticking in the out position and causing them to drag more after braking.
Flip side of that coin, is the other side semi seized and not actually pushing out and you’re actually really only braking fully on the one you found to be worn.

 

I had about 32k on mine when I changed the front pads, just recently too. Rears like you say, little ware. One pad wore a little different but didn’t worry about it. They all basically wore as if they couldn’t slide on the pins. Tilted worn? I put all new pads on the front and left the rear as is. Polished and put a little thin grease coat on the pins too.

 

Doesn't have anything to do with the rear, that is right front lower set only. However, many have seen somewhat uneven pad wear.... swap pads around to have an even set, keep your old "decent" ones for that purpose.
Why uneven, if one side is worn, then the caliper is not floating.... due to dirt, slide bolt not lubed, crud on the pad pins, etc.... caliper cannot equalize. I think there's a little design issue as well with such small pads, but it is what it is, just my opinion.
Check each tire change, take the opportunity to clean things up and prevent the oh shite moment of pads down to nothing. Leave the old pads in, squeeze the lever until they are together, that exposes enough piston to clean them up with a toothbrush/brake fluid and an alcohol rinse (or Simple Green and water rinse).
Your rotors should float too, so take a suitable tool and rotate the rivets/brake cleaner here to clear out crud if you like. Totally free, you should be able to rotate the rotor fore and aft and hear it click as you do so. If you hear a click when putting brakes on, that will go on for a while until some more dirt builds up in the rivets.
If everything is clean and freely moving you should have more even pad wear.

 

Here is my response to all posts above. I too thought about something sticking. I did not see anything obvious. But my front wheel has never spun as easily as I thought it should so I have pulled the calipers and pads a couple of times to give them a thorough cleaning. I have asked my dealer who I like and trust about how the wheel spun and they told me it looked normal to them.

I’m still inclined to agree that something just was a little kitty whampass and that the key is that I was thorough enough to discover it. Thanks for the replies. I still am open to learning from others.

 

Each rivet that connects the rotor to the hub should rotate freely, as RayZerman says. The right size of common screwdriver can "grab" in the center of each rivet, and let you rotate the rivet in both directions, for all rivets, and all rotors. Dirt can "lock" each rivet, and some rotation will get the dirt/grit out of each rivet. Also, the caliper should "float" on the mounts, allowing it to center itself when the brake is applied, to avoid uneven wear on the pads.

 

I'm puzzled by the continued reference by several people of FJR "floating" calipers.
None of the FJR's I've owned, or seen, have floating calipers on the front forks. They are all solid mounted to the fork legs.

I'll wait while you go out to the garage to see if you can wiggle the calipers around.

Only the pistons are free to move. When the pistons don't move freely (retract) is when the problem starts. Even when the pistons don't retract properly, the problem still may or may not be in the caliper depending on whether it is all the pistons or just some of them. Or on the right front caliper (linked brakes) which pistons.

Only the rear caliper "floats" since it is a single cylinder sliding caliper design. It is designed to slide on guide pins to press one pad against the rotor until it draws the other pad against the opposite side of the rotor.

And, I am still unable to fully explain why I get some un-even brake pad wear, too. I occasionally swap pads around to even out the wear, as others have suggested. I usually try to shuffle them so that the pad is still oriented in the same direction of rotation relative to the rotor.

YMMV, no lifeguard on duty, objects in mirror, etc.

dan

Don't bother me with facts, son. I've already made up my mind! -- Foghorn Leghorn.

 

You are correct, Dan the fronts don't float...... I work on so many bikes I forget (don't have an FJR in the stable any more). But yes, on some, uneven pad wear occurs, others are fine.... just keep things clean. Some put some grease on pad pins, I never have, but perhaps try it as an experiment?

 

jjscsix,

the guys here will get will get all technical on ya very quickly and go off on tangents that really have nothing to do with anything but here's my take on your "situation" from both a high mileage Gen2 and a medium mileage Gen3- it's normal. At least on my 2 bikes it is. It's why, at every tire change, I inspect and generally swap brake pads right-to-left and left-to-right, staying on the same caliper. If you brake like I do using fronts and rears generally together 90% of the time, at 32K miles the OE pads, when swapping is done regularly, should be about 2/3 worn down. Keep in mind I wear mine down to the nub. Like at 1/8" I look at replacing them and not sweating it if I wait a month or two. It takes about 2 minutes to inspect and a maybe a half hr to swap the fronts. Also I've found that by doing this EBC HH and OE last about the same time/mileage.

This little routine thing of swapping pads will significantly extend bake pad life, keeps me on top of my brake pad condition so there's no surprises like you got this time, and reduces my stress level. And lastly, a maintenance tip: loosen the front "pad pin" prior to caliper removal, anticipating the swap. Loosening them after caliper removal is a PITA .

 

Would greasing the pins collect dirt to the pins dust. Would graffite be better.

 

Don't over think it. And don't slather them in grease. I use the little packets of brake grease from Auto Zone. A little dab'll do ya! And no, when used sparingly I've not seen them collect dirt or dust.

 

Agree with Russ.... my thought was yes grease can collect dirt, only a bad thing if you never look at them, but do Russ's routine and you should be golden.... the pins get dirt ground into them with no grease too.....

 

And give those slide pins a good look see to make sure no corrosion or excessive wear.

 

The front wheel should turn easilly, take each caliper off in turn, give it and the pistons a good clean with brake and alloy wheel cleaner and a tooth brush, rinse well and put back on. If that does not work you may need to replace the caliper seals.

 

Thanks for the continued advice. I have used brake pad grease on the back of pads and on pins. I’ve actually tried with and without on pins, and replaced the pins about 5,000 miles back and did grease them very lightly. BTW, I also went to the much cheaper Honda pins. I have always greased the back of pads.

I can see arguments both ways. As stated by myself and others, these pads are simple to pull out and inspect. That is the ultimate best advice.

 

I have done a lot the past few days. I’ve had the calipers and/or at least pads, on and off the bike a few times. The new EBC pads are on, I pulled the rotors off and cleaned them per Rays advice, I’ve bled the brakes. Everything helped, but nothing reached my goal of getting the wheel to spin as freely as I’m used to on other bikes….until today.

Today I did as complete of a brake fluid flush as possible without activating the ABS as I don’t have the “tools” to do so, All the fluid is new and fresh except what’s buried away in the ABS modulator. And the wheel is now spinning freely enough to call it a complete victory!

Thanks for all the advice.

 

To cycle the ABS no special tools are required. I normally use an alligator clip. Time before last it was a paper clip.

 

Were you able to figure out the issue. I have the exact same problem on my 2007. Same pad, same caliper almost worn to the lining. Wouldn’t have noticed except stopped to air up front tire, bumped back of hand on rotor: smoking hot. Got back to house, unbolted caliper to inspect. I depressed the four pistons back into the caliper housing with channel locks. The three normally worn pistons stay in the housing, but the badly worn one pushes back out on its own. Flushed with new brake fluid: same. Don’t know the answer here. Only thought is reservoir is overfilled, so when pushing piston back into housing the fluid pressure cannot return to the reservoir and easiest moving piston moves out. Would greatly appreciate any comments on any issues you found. Thx.

 

Only thought is reservoir is overfilled, so when pushing piston back into housing the fluid pressure cannot return to the reservoir and easiest moving piston moves out. Would greatly appreciate any comments on any issues you found. Thx.

Overfilled is certainly a possibility, especially if refilling (like during a brake fluid bleed) is done with somewhat worn brake pads. Also, check the condition of the reservoir diaphragm and the vent notches in the cap. If the diaphragm is bloated or the slots blocked in any way, a pad can act as you describe. Consider replacing the diaphragm with new.