Get a list of things from the dealer what the 12K mile service entails. I bet it's an oil change and a dozen check this and check thats. Stuff you can do yourself. But if it's in your budget and you don't have the knowledge then pay the dealer.

 

There's a pretty comprehensive list in the owner's manual for the 12K service that I would guess is very similar to the Yamaha service manual. Problem I see is several things were missed along the way....for example spark plugs are supposed to be replaced at 8K, air filter checks or replacements if necessary, brake fluid change, etc. Just not sure if I can hold off until 13K or should take it in at 12K. How important is adjusting synchronization of the fuel injection system or checking error codes in the diagnostic system check? According to the manual these things should have been done 3 times already. Just trying to get ideas from folks who know far more about this bike than I do.

 

Many of the owner's manual listed 12,000 mile services are visual inspection and or moving parts lubrication / adjustment, most of which the owner can perform.
If the scooter seems to be operating normally, most of the small stuff doesn't require too much other attention.
Periodic lubrication of the lever pivots and brake pedal and shifter pivots is desirable but can be performed at home.
Air filter inspection / clean / replace as necessary (more often if a dirty environment).
Go over the fairing fasteners with a screwdriver / allen wrench occasionally.

No real need to over maintain known long life / low failure rate items.

One item that is recommended and is also highly recommended by the esteemed gurus on this forum is the brake and clutch fluids flush / replacement / bleed every two years or less along with the ABS system exercise. Referred to in another thread on this forum.
ABS activation proceedure 2022 | FJR Owners Forum

One other item where the collective forum usually differs from the owner's manual is tire air pressure recommendations.
Most (but not all) agree that the manual recommended pressures are too low.
Most (but not all) recommend approximately 40+- front and 42+- rear pressures measured with cold tires.

Some items are apparently just to generate revenue.
Even though the manual indicates spark plug replacement every 8,000 miles (and checks every 4,000 miles in between), most wait much longer.
Personally, I change spark plugs and radiator coolant every 30,000 miles at the same time as a valve clearance check / adjust (if necessary) along with a Throttle Body Synchronization and other "under the hood" inspections. Just for reference, I have been riding / maintaining my own FJRs for over 20 years and over 250K miles. Others have been at it even more miles than that.

Diagnostic System Check usually isn't needed unless there is an Error Code light or message on the dash.
Throttle Body Synchronization is probably pretty close at low mileage and can usually wait until valve clearance checks unless there is some drivability issue or objectionable vibration noted.



YMMV

dan

 

I appreciate the info Dan. Interesting comment on tire pressures. Just put a new Michelin Road 6 GT on the rear and have been running 36 front and 42 rear as per Yamaha recommended pressures. Just out of curiosity what pressures do you run in your FJR?

 

Since you seem to be paying out of your pocket for a dealer to do service, and since some of those items are 'revenue generators' to me, you can ignore or delay most of those items..... better yet, the simple stuff you can do yourself and save $150 per hour they charge these days...... anyway, in general, what Dan says is good.

Valve check can be pushed out to 30-40k miles, includes a coolant change, and spark plugs can go 30k. Air filter I look at annually end of season, blow it out with compressed air, turn it around 180 and re-install. You can do that a couple of times before needing to replace it. Shine a light inside and see how much light comes through the paper filter.

Rear diff fluid once a year is plenty, or if clear, leave it. Milky, replace it (milky=moisture got in). Do regular oil changes, Yammy interval is low, you can go bit more if you like.

Throttle body sync really only changes with valve clearance changes. First one would have been done at the 600 mile service and you can mostly ignore until valve check time.

Error codes in diagnostics are stored, not active, and usually only need to check if you're having a specific problem. An Active code should come up on the display, make note of it. With this bike, you'll need an OBD reader and adapter cable... all DIY with a little instruction.

Nothing wrong with you going over a few of the items for visual, ensuring fasteners not loose/missing.

Brake/clutch fluid, for us DIY-ers I recommend annually, but up to 2 years is fine too.

For some time I was thinking of coming up with the "Rayzerman FJR Maintenance Schedule"..... you just reminded me I should get on it, submit here for comments, then finalize it. I'm a busy guy, but I'll try to get off my butt.......

 

Thanks for the great info. I'd love to see the "Rayzerman FJR Maintenance Schedule". 👍👍

 

Routine winter maintenance (10-12Kmiles), most of which are very simple procedures that can be done by the most inexperienced:

1.Engine Oil Change
2.Final Drive Oil Change
3.Brake Fluid Change
4.Clutch Fluid Change
5.Coolant Fluid Change
6.Air Filter Maintenance
7.Valve Clearance Check (30K Miles)
8.Spark Plug Replace (20K miles)
9.Tire Pressure Check (Daily, get a TPMS!)
10. rear shock relay arm bearings clean and lube (30K Miles)

Drive shaft and u-joint SPLINE clean and lube (during tire change)

Brake and clutch lever clean and lube, inspect clutch lever bushing, replace if needed

shift and brake pedal clean and lube, shifter rubber turn-around or replacement

front and rear brake caliper clean and lube, inspect pads, replace if needed (during tire change)

Mirror pivots clean and lube (don't drop the 3 balls!!) (20K miles)

fuel treatment for cleaning injectors

MAYBE a drop or two of light oil in throttle cables.

Ignition and all other lock clean and slight lube


For your reading pleasure, helpful downloadable files -> Dropbox

For beginners, I recommend the Haynes manual. Don't worry about the application years, just get the latest one. You can save tons of $$$$ and learn a little about your bike.

 

Thanks rbentnail. Great advice. 👍

 

If you can hold a wrench I'd take these guys advice and try to do at least some of the things yourself. Get your confidence up doing one or two items and you might find yourself digging into more. But my bottomline advice is to not assume everyone working at any dealership is an "expert". That's something a friend just refused to believe.

He's a corporate pilot and pretty sharp. A few years ago he bought a very nice HD Ultra used and wanted to fit a SAE plug for his heated gear. He called looking to arrange a ride home before dropping it off at a dealer. I tried to convince him that we could easily do this in either of our garages and it would save him a bunch of money but he was adamant that the dealers were professionals and that's where it should go. He analogized it to his plane saying that while he understood the different systems there was no way he would ever touch anything to make a repair. That was the job for the trained techs and of which he wasn't certified. In his mind motorcycle dealerships had similar setups with certified techs and I had no luck convincing him otherwise.

 

Thanks BigOgre. It may take some time but I plan to learn to do some of these things myself.

 

No one answered the tire pressure question yet but the consensus for majority of riders is 40 front and 42 rear. You should feel the difference from the 36 psi the factory suggests. You picked a good tire I have run 3 sets so far and love them. Might want to replace the front?

 

Thanks cra-z1. I'm going to try experimenting with different tire pressures next time I ride. Previous owner replaced front tire just before I bought the bike so I'm in good shape there.