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2018 FJR1300ES
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3,303 Posts
John says it all.

I measured. The gen IV FJR produces approximately ~1 metric **** ton (1¥sht/t)of current. Even with heated gear, stock LED lighting, and a garmin gps, I only consume ~.41 metric **** tons of current.
Not true. A Series II or III has about 300 watts of reserve capacity as long as the engine is spinning enough to generate full charging current (590 watts at 5000 rpm). LED headlights would give you another 80 watts.

One day, I will try to measure the actual electrical power consumption of the bike.
 

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1,630 Posts
I run a short pig tail that exits between the seat and the tank in the center. Then I have a coiled extension that connects to that and goes through my tank bag handle. The jacket plugs into that coiled extension. My controller knobs are mounted on the left side faring just aft of the glove box.

I run the extension because I can plug/unplug while riding and most importantly I like to stand up on the pegs to stretch while riding without the jacket unplugging.
 

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My power pigtails for heated gear come from under seat when I need them. I have connections for both rider & pillion. They are sourced from an Eastern Beaver fuse block (which is also under seat) via always live connections. I am considering moving the pillion pigtail to a switched source in the fuse block. The rider always live connection allows that pigtail to have multiple uses: heated gear, tire pump, battery tender.

The rider power pigtail exits from right front seat area by tank thus when connected to the jacket liner the cord doesn't dangle as it runs between me and tank. Just makes sense to me. YMMV. The pillion power pigtail is long enough to come out from under seat on either side or between front/rear seats.
Do the PWR and GND wires for the fuse block go under the tank up to the battery? I have heated gloves and considering adding heated vest, but right now I have to run wires for the gloves from the battery over the tank (under my tank bag) and looking for a more elegant solution, especially if I want to try another Iron Butt run soon! I wasn't sure if running the wires from the battery under the tank (but above the heatshield) was safe from a thermal perspective...would the wires melt?
 

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Premium Member
Versys 1000, VFR800
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9,795 Posts
No problem at all wires under the tank over the insulation..... Eastern Beaver PC-8 I believe can accomodate up to 10ga. wire, however FZ1 Fuzeblock can only take up to 12ga.... which I'd use as minimum.
Heated jacket liner and gloves don't draw that much really, 10amp fuse OK, but if you add pant liner and socks you might want to make that 15amp. or carry spare 10's. Use minimum 16 ga wire for your heated gear.
 

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2007A, 2013A
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9,020 Posts
No problem at all wires under the tank over the insulation..... Eastern Beaver PC-8 I believe can accomodate up to 10ga. wire, however FZ1 Fuzeblock can only take up to 12ga.... which I'd use as minimum.
Heated jacket liner and gloves don't draw that much really, 10amp fuse OK, but if you add pant liner and socks you might want to make that 15amp. or carry spare 10's. Use minimum 16 ga wire for your heated gear.
Or here's an idea, know the facts. Don't guess. RTFM. Your gear should come with info of wattage. This easily converts to nominal amperage. Use appropriate wire size, insulation type and overcurrent protection based on that info.
 

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212 Posts
This is how I did it. Connected a Powerlet socket directly to the battery, using a suitably sized fuse and SAE connector so that it can be disconnected whenever I need to remove the side panel. I can power my heated jacket or connect my lithium battery power pack to it. Yes, I did have to drill a hole in side panel, but hey, it's my bike and I can do whatever I want to make it work for me.

YMMV


Car Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design
 

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This is how I did it. Connected a Powerlet socket directly to the battery, using a suitably sized fuse and SAE connector so that it can be disconnected whenever I need to remove the side panel. I can power my heated jacket or connect my lithium battery power pack to it. Yes, I did have to drill a hole in side panel, but hey, it's my bike and I can do whatever I want to make it work for me.

YMMV
I love the Powerlets and was thinking of doing something similar for charging the battery to get rid of the loose SAE I have now and provide an adapter for whatever I need (coax, USB, SAE, etc..). I am curious though about your lithium battery comment. I assume that is for jump starting? I ask because in my planning for the same, I came to the conclusion that the 15a limit on the Powerlet was a roadblock to that idea (jumpstart anyway).
 

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52 Posts
I have an open coaxial female connector on a wire come out between the seats that works well. The other end hooks up to a relayed fuse block under the seat. I put the connector under the rear seat when not in use or it just dangles down against the left side of the seat. If I forget to unhook the coaxial connector separates easily.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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A Powerlet won't allow jump starts either for all the same reasons as the SAE. Keep the SAE for charging, coax for heated gear and hardwired to a fuse block for all other power needs.
 
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