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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Heated wiring gurus!

Finishing up setting up the FJR for cold weather riding.

Santa came early this year and bought me a Mobile Warming dual power jacket and matching Barra winter gloves. Can run on 12v battery or wired to the bike directly to your battery:



I've run the 12v power lead adapter with a fuse to the right side towards the saddlebag. Properly soldered and heat shrink wrapped all connections running to my relayed 6-circuit fuse block. Female end of plug should be a 5.5 x 2.5 plug.

But, I'm still thinking it's not the most elegant way to having the power cord just dangling.

Have any of you installed a DC coax jack panel mount so you can merely plug in and where?

This one from Warm & Safe Heated Gear:


Or this Gerbing 12V Panel Mounted Port:


Thinking of installing around the yellow dot on the fairing panel rear of the battery on the throttle side:



Pictures of your installs?
 

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Mine is run directly from the battery, and is accessible between the fairing and the tank. Tucks away when not in use. Access is good on or off the bike. Angle is good so if I forget to unplug it unplugs without too much stress on anything.
 

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Cleanest install I've ever seen was the old helmet lock bracket with a receptacle installed. Below is a pic of one of my helmet locks but the little bracket was also available with a port for gear.

I have no idea if he still makes them, might be worth a PM or email. -> https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/24-fjr-specialist-suppliers/14214-fjr-lock-brackets-available.html
Yepper, their still available:





ES Model:


Please e-mail me at [email protected] for options, pic's and prices.. Please put in the header FJR, the year and if an ES model

Thanks, Scott
 
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Most heated gear has its cords on the left side..... no good spot to panel mount without an extension cord to your gear, cord flops in the wind against your paintwork... you can leave a short bit sticking up between your seat and tank (auto-unplugs if you forget) or the Townsend brackets at the seat lock. I have mine wired through my fuse block under the seat, so it is switched on with ignition on... in case you forget to unplug. No fuseblock, use a relay to switch it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Most heated gear has its cords on the left side..... no good spot to panel mount without an extension cord to your gear, cord flops in the wind against your paintwork... you can leave a short bit sticking up between your seat and tank (auto-unplugs if you forget) or the Townsend brackets at the seat lock. I have mine wired through my fuse block under the seat, so it is switched on with ignition on... in case you forget to unplug. No fuseblock, use a relay to switch it.
@ RaYzerman - My power lead originates from relayed fuse block under the seat:



I could just add 12-20" of 16AWG wire to extend the power load under the tank outto the battery area and then zip tie there.
 

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OK, I was just curious why anyone would want the outlet up by the battery which is pretty far away from where you'd want to plug in your jacket.... again assuming your connection point is on your left side and not wanting to drag an extension cord across your tank...
 
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My power pigtails for heated gear come from under seat when I need them. I have connections for both rider & pillion. They are sourced from an Eastern Beaver fuse block (which is also under seat) via always live connections. I am considering moving the pillion pigtail to a switched source in the fuse block. The rider always live connection allows that pigtail to have multiple uses: heated gear, tire pump, battery tender.

The rider power pigtail exits from right front seat area by tank thus when connected to the jacket liner the cord doesn't dangle as it runs between me and tank. Just makes sense to me. YMMV. The pillion power pigtail is long enough to come out from under seat on either side or between front/rear seats.
 

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I mounted a coax receptacle on the fairing where it goes down in front of your left leg. I mounted it on the part of the fairing that actually angles back towards the front of the bike above the shifter, more or less. I've mounted a lot of panel mount receptacles for heated gear, and this is my favorite. I'll try to find a picture.

Here you are. Not a great picture, but you can see where I mean. It's a great place because it comes straight up to the side of the jacket where the cable is.

BTW, I did not take the picture sideways, the forum did that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@jjscsix

Thanks. Would love to see an install picture.
 

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There is not a lot of current leftover for heated gear. I would be more interested in finding a way to have more watts available. At one time I saw a discussion of another forum of some sort of addon to the driveshaft to drive an auxiliary generator.

With regard to location of plug or connection, I would think design param would be-
Safety and integrity of connection from mechanical abuse
Operation with gloves
Ability to self unplug when dismounting
Ability to turn on off or adjust temp with gloves on
 

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There is not a lot of current leftover for heated gear. I would be more interested in finding a way to have more watts available.
My old '04 ad the lowest charging capacity, a bit lower than the newer bikes. With that said, I ran a Widder vest and Widder gauntlet gloves W/O any issues.

I ran the same set up on my FZ600 which is WAY lower charging wattage wise. I did turn the controller off when stopped at a light but otherwise, running it was fine,
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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You have email. But I already have a helmet lock mounted.
The pictures above are for Gen II and up bikes.

The Gen I is very different (the bracket does NOT clamp around the frame at all) :





 

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There is not a lot of current leftover for heated gear. I would be more interested in finding a way to have more watts available. At one time I saw a discussion of another forum of some sort of addon to the driveshaft to drive an auxiliary generator.
Not true. A Series II or III has about 300 watts of reserve capacity as long as the engine is spinning enough to generate full charging current (590 watts at 5000 rpm). LED headlights would give you another 80 watts.

One day, I will try to measure the actual electrical power consumption of the bike.
 
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