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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought this 2013 in 2019 with 50k miles on it from the dealer the OP bought it from and the dealer gave me all the maintenance history. The valves were checked at 26k miles and all were in spec.

Fast forward to yesterday, the bike has 61k miles on it so I decided it was time to check the valves again. All were still in spec and the same as the dealer recorded. Nice. I had ordered the gaskets needed but this was a spur of the moment decision so I am waiting on spark plugs and to get some coolant before I button it up. It took me two hours to get the valves checked and the gaskets on. I am also waiting on some block off plates to leave the PAIR system off.

A pretty simple procedure, especially compared to a Concours 14 which took me and a buddy almost 2 days to do, what an ordeal.

When I got to the plumbing I noticed the hose clamps for the pair system were not even on the pipes, they were slid back on the hoses. I know why I hate for a dealer to do anything to my bike, at least if I screw up it is my fault.

Attached is a picture of where the clamps were.

I will have to wait until this coming Friday to finish up as I am waiting on the plugs and block off plates.
 

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I don’t believe I have ever heard of FJR valves being out of spec.
 

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FJR's have had valves out of spec, not many, but it happens.



Cognosticator, one could leave the clamps entirely off the PAIR system as it it a passive mild suction of fresh air into the exhaust ports, reed valves prevent reverse flow. The clamps are "overdesign"....
However, if you've got block-off plates, go for it. Note, you will have to leave the solenoid connected, as Gen3+ senses whether it is present, and if not will record an error code or maybe a Check Engine light. The good news it doesn't take up a lot of room with all the hoses gone. I suppose one could test the resistance of the solenoid and replace it with an appropriate resistor........
 
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Hey Cog,

Which block-off plates did you go with?

I need to get a set one day, as I just put big rubber plugs over my ports.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Note, you will have to leave the solenoid connected, as Gen3+ senses whether it is present, and if not will record an error code or maybe a Check Engine light. The good news it doesn't take up a lot of room with all the hoses gone. I suppose one could test the resistance of the solenoid and replace it with an appropriate resistor........
Thanks for the information. I have Ivan's ECU flash and it states the following, would that negate the need to connect the solenoid?

4) Closes AIS valves electronically
No need for block-off plates for air injection system
No popping on decel !!
No hoses to plug - Just plug in your ECU and go !!

TIA
 

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I don't believe I have ever heard of FJR valves being out of spec.
I just did one at 36,000 miles. Two intakes were under spec at .127. ALL the rest of the intakes measured really close to the minimum (.152), so I went ahead and replaced those while I was in there.
3 exhaust valves measured at .178 and were replaced. The rest measured .203.

So I guess I'm one of the rare ones that actually had to change shims.
 

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I removed the PAIR system on my Gen 3. Disconnected the solenoid. Have never had a code or check engine light.
Hmmm........ made me look for codes..... Looks like I was in error, it applies to 2016 up, code is P1400. No code listed for Gen3.
 
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I just did one at 36,000 miles. Two intakes were under spec at .127. ALL the rest of the intakes measured really close to the minimum (.152), so I went ahead and replaced those while I was in there.
3 exhaust valves measured at .178 and were replaced. The rest measured .203.

So I guess I'm one of the rare ones that actually had to change shims.
Based upon my many years on FJR forums, I'd say that yes, you are a rare one.
 
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I am equal parts dreading this check, and wanting to get it over with. My bike only has 18k on it, but I know once the valves are done it's pretty much smooth sailing with oil/coolant/shaft fluid changes off into the horizon..lol
 

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Hey Cog,

Which block-off plates did you go with?

I need to get a set one day, as I just put big rubber plugs over my ports.
So, is there any advantage to the block-off plates over just the plugs?
 

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I don't think so, other than the plugs will dry-rot pretty quickly.

The plates will last longer and just look cleaner, I think.

I will post up pics of my plugs, and then the plates, after I install them.
 

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The internal reed valves prevent back-flow, plugs or blocking plates just prevent the passive entry of fresh air into the exhaust ports. With an intact system, the solenoid would block/allow the flow instead.
 

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I don't think so, other than the plugs will dry-rot pretty quickly.

The plates will last longer and just look cleaner, I think.

I will post up pics of my plugs, and then the plates, after I install them.
I would agree on cleaner looking, but it's under the tank so ..... only I would know ;) Dry-rot is a consideration. Thanks.
 

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I am equal parts dreading this check, and wanting to get it over with. My bike only has 18k on it, but I know once the valves are done it's pretty much smooth sailing with oil/coolant/shaft fluid changes off into the horizon..lol
The valves are not due checking until 24000 miles, time is irrelevant as if they do wear it will only be with use. The chances of them needing adjustment at that mileage is very low.
 

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Darn, I should'a bought that BM Trouble-U. WHat's worse, constant valve re-adjustments required or 2nd gear recall?
That type of thing is why I went for the 2015 instead of a 16+. I said 6 speed would be cool yes, but the 2015 is latest model of the transmission they used for what..15years straight? I figured anything on that trans that needed sorting would have been well sorted in 15 years.
 
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