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2003 Gen 1
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Murphy showed his diabolical evil self this morning. Before leaving on my trip this a.m. I took a quick dry run to make sure all my gear would stay put. Aside from a heavy ass the bike behaved and nothing fell off. I fiddled with the compression and rebound on the new/used/rebuilt Ohlins till I was happy, turned around came home.

In front of the garage as I'm turning the h'bar to the left while maneuvering around my car, the bike dies. That's weird. Did I hit the kill switch? Nope. Turn the bars straight, hit the starter, fires right up. Okay. I again turn the h'bar to the left and the engine dies again. crap. Turn the bar back straight again, hit the starter button, fires right up, then dies, never to start again.

For giggles I put it in gear, hit the start button, and no start, of course, but the fuel pump kicks in when I press the start button. Is that normal?

As I wheel the bike back in the garage, in desperation, hoping it was a fluke, hit the start button. It won't start, but now the starter spins so fast it's almost like the engine has no compression. I've never heard the starter spin that fast.

All the dash lights light up as normal when I turn the key on. Fuel pump primes. No start but the starter spins crazy unusually fast.

So, here I sit, broken hearted, wanted to ride, it won't started.

Any ideas from you experts? Bike/engine has 45K on it. It was running perfectly normal!!

Oh, here's another weird thing. I changed the oil and filter couple days ago, went through the usual process, fill, run engine for a couple minutes, shut it off, let the oil drain down, filled to just below the high/upper fill line. Done it a bunch of times, easy job. Today after I got the bike back in the garage on the center stand, noticed the sight glass is completely filled? covered? way up past the high fill mark. No free space showing. Does the engine have a fail safe shut off if there is too much oil in the crankcase? How could the engine have too much oil if the level was just below the high mark on the sight glass???

Thank you in advance for any insights, suggestions or advice. I guess my trip is fubar'd.
 

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I would start easy. Spray some contact cleaner in the kill switch and anything electrical on the h'bars. Then try to start the bike as you wiggle the wires under the key switch. You might have a chaffed wire that shorts or loses contact when you turn the bars.

Worse thing I can think of is the spring that engages the starter gear is stuck. A rap with a hammer might free it if that's the case.
 
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Premium Member
2003 Gen 1
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181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I did the wiggle thing. I'll try it again though. Thanks for the suggestion on the contact cleaner. I've been through the ignition switch a couple years ago, the result of nothing when I turned the key. When I took the switch apart (now that was quite a project!) I could see that two of the contacts had come loose. It was pretty obvious they were cold joints, so I re-heated/re-soldered them and no problems since.
If that starter spring is stuck, would that cause the starter to spin really fast?
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll give the starter a whack.
 

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2003 Gen 1
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah I did the wiggle thing. I'll try it again though. Thanks for the suggestion on the contact cleaner. I've been through the ignition switch a couple years ago, the result of nothing when I turned the key. When I took the switch apart (now that was quite a project!) I could see that two of the contacts had come loose. It was pretty obvious they were cold joints, so I re-heated/re-soldered them and no problems since.
If that starter spring is stuck, would that cause the starter to spin really fast?
Thanks for the quick reply. I'll give the starter a whack.
I would start easy. Spray some contact cleaner in the kill switch and anything electrical on the h'bars. Then try to start the bike as you wiggle the wires under the key switch. You might have a chaffed wire that shorts or loses contact when you turn the bars.

Worse thing I can think of is the spring that engages the starter gear is stuck. A rap with a hammer might free it if that's the case.
Ha, my Haynes lists fault codes and explains where to find it. On the dash! Looked at my dash to see fault code 19, which is the sidestand switch. Eureka. Hopefully an easy fix!
 

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The starter would spin fast because there's no resistance. I don't know what it's called on a bike but thinking back to my old car days we called it a Bendix spring. It would push the gear on the starter out to the fly wheel and spin it to turn the motor over.
 

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Oooops, sorry I replied before I saw your code 19 post. Fingers crossed.

I had a side stand switch fail on a ZRX mid trip. Obviously could not get the part on the road and cleaning it didn't help. So we just cut the wires and twisted them together, essentially bypassing it until a permanent fix was done. I don't know if you can do the same with an FJR.
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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There is no Bendix on an FJR (or most bikes') starter.... it is constantly engaged in a gear, and on the hub of that gear there is a one-way clutch. When the starter cranks, the one-way clutch engages to spin the motor, and when it starts, the one-way clutch free-wheels. I can't explain why your starter free-wheels without saying the one-way clutch is bad..... which I find hard to believe at 45k. Maybe the starter motor is not getting full power, not spinning fast enough to engage the one-way clutch? Dunno. Check the connector at the starter relay for corrosion.........

(IF you want to watch the starter clutch in action, remove the stator cover)

I would concentrate on finding out the reason for not engaging when the handlebars are turned. As mentioned already, could be a chafed wire around the steering head or ignition switch issue. Find the spot at which it doesn't work and wiggle those wires while trying to get it started.
 
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Thanks Ray. Never really had to look into an issue with a starter so I am/was totally ignorant on it. All good info to know.
 

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2003 Gen 1
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oooops, sorry I replied before I saw your code 19 post. Fingers crossed.

I had a side stand switch fail on a ZRX mid trip. Obviously could not get the part on the road and cleaning it didn't help. So we just cut the wires and twisted them together, essentially bypassing it until a permanent fix was done. I don't know if you can do the same with an FJR.
Okay, another question. When the sidestand is up, is the switch open or closed? I'm testing the switch for continuity as per Haynes, but electrical easily confuses my litte pea brain. When the stand is up, the meter yells at me. When the stand is down, the meter is quiet. According to Haynes " with the sidestand up there should be continuity (zero resistence) and the stand down there should be no continuity (infinite resistence) Humor me please. It may stick this time.
thanks.
 

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2003 Gen 1
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, another question. When the sidestand is up, is the switch open or closed? I'm testing the switch for continuity as per Haynes, but electrical easily confuses my litte pea brain. When the stand is up, the meter yells at me. When the stand is down, the meter is quiet. According to Haynes " with the sidestand up there should be continuity (zero resistence) and the stand down there should be no continuity (infinite resistence) Humor me please. It may stick this time.
thanks.
Well crap, turns out Fault Code 19 isn't JUST the sidestand switch. It could be the clutch switch or something in the starter circuit. This is gonna be a rough learning curve and not easily or quickly fixed by me. good bye road trip.....
 

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Geez I'm sorry but I can't answer that. Electronics is far from my strong suit. Somebody with electrical knowledge should be along shortly.

The only thing I know about electricity is never stick your tongue in a wall socket.
 

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Current FJR's 2 2011's Past FJR's 2003 2x2005 2008 2010 2013
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Had the same problem with my 03 back in 05....ran all the tests and bypasses I could think of the ign switch plug in had a little corrosion that got cleaned up . Narrowed it down to the ignition switch...called my rep at the time to confirm my diag....he got in touch with mama Yamaha....rep got me to pull switch and we sent to Japan overnite...they didn't realize there were 2 loops in the switch and one had gone south....I had a complete lock kit sent to me in 2 days....many so sorrys from mama.....long story short...just replace the switch....
 

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Versys 1000, VFR800
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With side stand up, it should be closed.........

To eliminate clutch or side stand switch, shift to neutral, fuel pump should run and enable starting.
Fuel pump/starter should not run when in gear and side stand down.
Fuel pump/starter should work with side stand up, in gear with clutch pulled.
 

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2003 Gen 1
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Had the same problem with my 03 back in 05....ran all the tests and bypasses I could think of the ign switch plug in had a little corrosion that got cleaned up . Narrowed it down to the ignition switch...called my rep at the time to confirm my diag....he got in touch with mama Yamaha....rep got me to pull switch and we sent to Japan overnite...they didn't realize there were 2 loops in the switch and one had gone south....I had a complete lock kit sent to me in 2 days....many so sorrys from mama.....long story short...just replace the switch....
Murphy showed his diabolical evil self this morning. Before leaving on my trip this a.m. I took a quick dry run to make sure all my gear would stay put. Aside from a heavy ass the bike behaved and nothing fell off. I fiddled with the compression and rebound on the new/used/rebuilt Ohlins till I was happy, turned around came home.

In front of the garage as I'm turning the h'bar to the left while maneuvering around my car, the bike dies. That's weird. Did I hit the kill switch? Nope. Turn the bars straight, hit the starter, fires right up. Okay. I again turn the h'bar to the left and the engine dies again. crap. Turn the bar back straight again, hit the starter button, fires right up, then dies, never to start again.

For giggles I put it in gear, hit the start button, and no start, of course, but the fuel pump kicks in when I press the start button. Is that normal?

As I wheel the bike back in the garage, in desperation, hoping it was a fluke, hit the start button. It won't start, but now the starter spins so fast it's almost like the engine has no compression. I've never heard the starter spin that fast.

All the dash lights light up as normal when I turn the key on. Fuel pump primes. No start but the starter spins crazy unusually fast.

So, here I sit, broken hearted, wanted to ride, it won't started.

Any ideas from you experts? Bike/engine has 45K on it. It was running perfectly normal!!

Oh, here's another weird thing. I changed the oil and filter couple days ago, went through the usual process, fill, run engine for a couple minutes, shut it off, let the oil drain down, filled to just below the high/upper fill line. Done it a bunch of times, easy job. Today after I got the bike back in the garage on the center stand, noticed the sight glass is completely filled? covered? way up past the high fill mark. No free space showing. Does the engine have a fail safe shut off if there is too much oil in the crankcase? How could the engine have too much oil if the level was just below the high mark on the sight glass???

Thank you in advance for any insights, suggestions or advice. I guess my trip is fubar'd.
Well folks, mystery solved. What's wrong with this picture? I had resolderd a cold joint that came undone (the red wire) and was convinced the ig switch was fine. fjrville03 got me to thinking, so decided what the heck, took it out, and well, I was wrong. Can't afford a new switch ($200!!) that may have the same problems down the line, so gonna whip out the soldering iron tomorrow. I may get some road time in yet on my vacation! I need a beer. Or two.
Thanks everyone for your time! Happy riding.



Purple Automotive lighting Input device Personal protective equipment Electric blue
 

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2003 Gen 1
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181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well folks, mystery solved. What's wrong with this picture? I had resolderd a cold joint that came undone (the red wire) and was convinced the ig switch was fine. fjrville03 got me to thinking, so decided what the heck, took it out, and well, I was wrong. Can't afford a new switch ($200!!) that may have the same problems down the line, so gonna whip out the soldering iron tomorrow. I may get some road time in yet on my vacation! I need a beer. Or two.
Thanks everyone for your time! Happy riding.



View attachment 88385
Upside to this debacle is the bike had a tantrum in my front yard. Would have really been a bitch if this had happened 800 miles from home.
 

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2003 Gen 1
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Upside to this debacle is the bike had a tantrum in my front yard. Would have really been a bitch if this had happened 800 miles from home.
Repaired, and we have ignition. Also re-heated the cold joint next to it for a stronger connection. Housten, prepare for liftoff.

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bicycle part Motor vehicle Rim

Coil Electrical wiring Needle-nose pliers Cable Wire
 
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