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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had some back problems for a long time, and even though the FJR riding position is pretty upright, it put me in a little bit of a crouch that could bother my back after awhile. I considered buying one of the setbacks that I've seen for FJRs, but my brother has a whole machine shop at his place, so I thought I would try making my own.

With a lot of measuring and making paper patterns (and with my brother looking over my shoulder), I came up with a pair of blocks like in the attached. There are also shots showing the bars mounted with the setbacks and a side view showing the handlebar position.

The setbacks move the bars back about 1 5/8" and make the bars about 5/8" wider. Since I always had the bars mounted in the rear position and I've mounted the setback blocks in the forward position, the net effect is about 1" back from what I'm used to. The bars are also 3/4" higher since the blocks are 3/4" T6 aluminum.

I used the hel performance replacement front brake line to get enough length (see this post http://www.fjrowners.com/forums/10-...brake-line-3-inches-available-bar-risers.html). Everything else was long enough with some rerouting. (Regarding replacing the front brake line: make sure you have a really good flare nut wrench; the fitting on my FJR was very, very tight as it came from the factory.)

These setbacks are a big improvement for me. I wasn't able to use the low seat position before, because the low position is also further back, meaning I had to crouch even more. Now I can use the low position and still not be in a crouch. (This also seems to have reduced the engine heat on my knees since I'm now just a little further away from the fairing.)

Still to do: I want to set up to center drill and tap the bolt heads that I used to mount the bars so I can put the little metal covers on the bars.
 

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Nice job on the setbacks. Still no time yet to make mine. Hopefully once september hits. Thanks for the link on the brake line as well. I'll definitely need that.
 

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Awesome job, my friend.
I was just going to reach out to some friends to see if I can get some T6 and a little shop time.
I'm only 5'5" tall and I just scored a low mile Gen I.
Nothing in the aftermarket looks like it's going to work.
Again, great job and kudos for fashioning your own. :)
 

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The stock (gen III, anyway) riding position isn't upright compared to any bike I've ridden. I had no intention of adding risers, or peg lowering brackets, when I bought the bike, but pretty much immediately figured out that was going to be a requirement to keep the bike. I love my helibridge, but I'd go another full inch back if I could get it. Good on you for fabbing your own stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Finally, finished it off with covers over the bolts

I finally finished this project off by making some posts to mount the bolt covers that Yamaha originally had over the bar mounts. I drilled small holes in the bolt heads and tapped them. The pictures show the posts I made and the final result. For those who like boring details, read further.

I had originally planned on tapping the bolt heads and then just mounting the covers using a spacer and a long screw. So I went out to my brother's shop and got out his tap and die set. The screws used by Yamaha to mount the covers are M4s with a 0.7 thread pitch. The tap and die set had only M4 by 0.75 pitch. I thought, what the heck, I'm going to have to replace the screws with longer ones anyway, I'll just use the 0.75 pitch tap and get new screws. So I drilled and tapped the bolt heads, put the bars back on, and then started looking for screws. That's when I found out that nobody makes M4 X 0.75 screws. I looked all over, including online, and and found lots of taps and dies at 0.75, but nobody had screws. At this point, I should have bought new bolts, and started over. But instead, I turned it into a bigger project.

I got a new set of taps and dies that had M4 X 0.7 in it. Then I turned a piece of steel in the lathe to be the post with an end turned down to 4mm. I used the M4 X 0.75 die to thread the 4mm end so it would screw into the bolt head. Then I drilled and tapped the other end of the post with M4 X 0.7 to match the original Yamaha screws. I couldn't use the original screws, though, because if I drilled deep enough for the length of the screws, it would go all the way through the post and the threaded end would drop off. So that's why I ended up with the (shorter) Phillips head screws in the picture.
 

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Glad you came back with the update. I was thinking, "funny you should mention that". I just today finished what I started Saturday:

Started with stock plate and Genmar risers that I installed about a gazillion yrs ago.



Then Saturday I swapped out for Heli Plate w/ no risers. This went back to stock height but closer to me.



A little time on the lathe Sunday for drilling and tapping, a little thread addition to 2 bolts and a slight deepening of HeliPlate pinholes and voila! Don't forget to add o-rings to the 4mm cover screws- keeps from overtightening and cracking paint, especially of the softer-paint Gen3 models.







 
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