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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
A little embarrassed to post this one but “it’s all part of the process”

Sculpture Artifact Wood Art Statue

What do I even do here? The bearings inside feel smooth and the thing wiggles around like a soft plastic bait but what do I do to help her out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Obviously I have to clean out all the splines and get the grime off. There is a retaining ring down on the transmission side but I have no idea what it is retaining as the U Joint just slid off like in Marks walk through.
Wood Natural material Tree Musical instrument Close-up


EDIT: Going to soak this whole thing in WD-40 tomorrow and attack it with a toothbrush and see how she comes out. I don't know who "KOYO" is or how they do what they do but after seeing the amount of turn that shaft has to do to just get one rotation out of the wheel I would like to send them a congratulatory letter and personally thank them. It is insane to think about how fast this thing is spinning in between our ankles and just how many times it has to do it's job without exploding into a thousand shards and tearing through our legs like a grenade.
Hell of a job boys. We will get ya all cleaned up and spinning like a top in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
On a side note, the "ticking" is happening when the RPM's are at 2.7K-3.2K in all gears. If I just ride it gentle and don't accelerate too hard or decelerate too hard it will keep the tick going. Anything outside of that range and it disappears. I am assuming that I thought it was coming and going because of how I was riding but experimenting with it today I found that I can get it to happen all the time in those conditions. I highly doubt the final drive has anything to do with it but I am 1000% happy I tore it apart when I did because this bugger needs some love before real damage sets in.
I also noticed that my claim of the engine RPM's not having any bearing on the tick was false. In that range of RPM's it does slightly increase and decrease but not as fast as the RPM's of the engine. My imagination wanders to the cam chain again and the possibility of the plastic guides being worn down and not liking that range. I don't know. It is still going to tick (most likely) after I finish lubing this thing up like a Turkish wrestler but at least she will be in a better state of mechanical function.
 

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FYI, the driveshaft is spring-loaded at the pumpkin end, and it constantly pushes the forward end splines into the U-joint and thus U-joint to the transmission output shaft (middle gear drive). The worst you've found is rust, and I think once you clean it up you'll find the splines haven't worn much. Pretty sure your tick is not there. Grease it up and put it back together. U-joint failures are rare, we just don't hear of them, not constantly under stress since the whole shebang is pushed together in full engagement at all times.

As for the cam chain, if you can nail down the location to the right side engine, that would help. You already replaced the CCT. There is a plastic "Guide, Stopper 2" pressed into the valve cover (above the cam sprockets) to prevent chain slack from hitting the valve cover, maybe that's what you're hearing. If you ultimately decide to do surgery (valve cover off, valve check), you could replace the plastic chain guides and the chain. At 60k, I'd guess they aren't all that bad but you won't know until you get there. IF you really are concerned and want to sleep better at night, it's a reasonably easy job. Chain is ~$50, guides ~$150-ish.

I would be more concerned if you were hearing rattle...... which means the CCT is failing, which yours isn't.
 
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A little embarrassed to post this one but “it’s all part of the process”

View attachment 85269
What do I even do here? The bearings inside feel smooth and the thing wiggles around like a soft plastic bait but what do I do to help her out?
Wow. I've pulled better looking ujoints out of jeeps from the 40's. That is a crazy amount of rust for a motorcycle u-joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
FYI, the driveshaft is spring-loaded at the pumpkin end, and it constantly pushes the forward end splines into the U-joint and thus U-joint to the transmission output shaft (middle gear drive). The worst you've found is rust, and I think once you clean it up you'll find the splines haven't worn much. Pretty sure your tick is not there. Grease it up and put it back together. U-joint failures are rare, we just don't hear of them, not constantly under stress since the whole shebang is pushed together in full engagement at all times.

As for the cam chain, if you can nail down the location to the right side engine, that would help. You already replaced the CCT. There is a plastic "Guide, Stopper 2" pressed into the valve cover (above the cam sprockets) to prevent chain slack from hitting the valve cover, maybe that's what you're hearing. If you ultimately decide to do surgery (valve cover off, valve check), you could replace the plastic chain guides and the chain. At 60k, I'd guess they aren't all that bad but you won't know until you get there. IF you really are concerned and want to sleep better at night, it's a reasonably easy job. Chain is ~$50, guides ~$150-ish.

I would be more concerned if you were hearing rattle...... which means the CCT is failing, which yours isn't.
I think I am going to do a throttle body sync first and foremost just to see where things are at and if they are off by how much. Then (if I feel confident enough) I may go full surgical mode and get a look at the valve clearances. I do know how to check them and the tools/procedure involved but do knot know the method for adjusting them. I am also looking into what plastic guide I should be looking for and locating it on the parts fiche so I know exactly what I am looking at. I really appreciate the ideas and help.
 

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To adjust valve clearances, each cam can be removed and rotated out of the way, then you remove the bucket (use a magnet), and the shim is under it. To change clearances, you calculate the new shim thickness you need. I order shims from Rocky Mountain ATV as you can get them in 1/4 sizes. You may be able to swap some around......

If you're in there that deep and are replacing guides and chain, then take both cams out.... at the very start, set #1 cylinder on compression stroke using the timing mark at the crankshaft. This is your reference datum point. Cam sprockets have marks to line up so valve timing is correct.

This is one parts diagram, choose your favourite parts supplier.......

I'll make you an offer.... we're having a tech day on June 4 in Eden, NY.... bring it over. We're doing one other valve check that day. Let me know if you're coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
To adjust valve clearances, each cam can be removed and rotated out of the way, then you remove the bucket (use a magnet), and the shim is under it. To change clearances, you calculate the new shim thickness you need. I order shims from Rocky Mountain ATV as you can get them in 1/4 sizes. You may be able to swap some around......

If you're in there that deep and are replacing guides and chain, then take both cams out.... at the very start, set #1 cylinder on compression stroke using the timing mark at the crankshaft. This is your reference datum point. Cam sprockets have marks to line up so valve timing is correct.

This is one parts diagram, choose your favourite parts supplier.......

I'll make you an offer.... we're having a tech day on June 4 in Eden, NY.... bring it over. We're doing one other valve check that day. Let me know if you're coming.
ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!??!!? Are asking if I would ride 3 hours on a Saturday??? AND let professionals that have already helped me on a cool ass forum look at my bike??? As long as it isn't a torrential downpour all day I will be there with bells on! Just let me know how much cash I should bring and the time/location and I will pack a couple cold ones as well!
 

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All the tools will be there and a full shim kit....... you bring your parts and a jug of coolant and your beverages of choice, it's BYOB. You'll do the work, I'll just watch, lol. Order your parts ASAP in case there are supply issues....
Expect a PM soon.
 
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I never listen to music and I never wear earplugs because 99.999% of the time I am listening to the sound the engine makes and while it does not make a loud tech it is audible to me and new so I’m doing my regular thing and thinking of all of the worst things
Keep doing that( not wearing earplugs) and you won't hear anything anymore. Not wearing earplugs is a very, very bad habit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
All the tools will be there and a full shim kit....... you bring your parts and a jug of coolant and your beverages of choice, it's BYOB. You'll do the work, I'll just watch, lol. Order your parts ASAP in case there are supply issues....
Expect a PM soon.

Okay that sounds awesome!!! Thanks for the invite!

so just keeping with the way the thread has gone, here is where we are at boys.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle wheel


Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Circle Symmetry Pattern

Everything scrubbed down and cleaned as good as I could get her. Got everything covered in moly (I bought a tube of the good gloopy stuff) the “pumpkin” back on, changed the rear gear oil as well to Mobil 1 70W-90 synth, dust covers installed and just have to put the rear wheel back. Also just ordered brake pads all the way around.
 

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You're going to want to wipe some of that grease off unless you like it all over your wheel. Just need a tiny bit on the splines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Keep doing that( not wearing earplugs) and you won't hear anything anymore. Not wearing earplugs is a very, very bad habit.
I already have tinnitus and serious hearing loss. Ironically when I wear earplugs it causes the tinnitus to be extra loud and slightly painful but the wind sounds calm it. I spent a lot of time in my younger days behind firearms, having shit explode near me, and felling trees and ripping 2-strokes before that but back in the 80's 90's they didn't tell you it would come back to bite you in the ass. I appreciate your concern and advice though, honestly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
You're going to want to wipe some of that grease off unless you like it all over your wheel. Just need a tiny bit on the splines.
I coated it and jambed them in and out of each other to work it in into the metal and the nooks and crannies, then I pulled them apart and wiped off the globs that pushed out and excess that had came away from the splines. Planning on doing the same with the wheel even though it will be extra work. I just want to make sure it gets it in all the places it need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Question: Should I have used Loctite on the 4 bolts that hold the drive "pumpkin" in place? There was none on them to begin with but so far I am not putting any stock into the previous work done. (or not done in this case) I am going to remove the rear wheel again in a few days do check on the state of things, clean up any extra moly and replace the brake pads when they come in and I can just add it if needed then. I am not going to be putting 200 miles a day on the bike before that so I am not worried about them coming loose but if yall think it is a good/bad idea I will go on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Font Auto part Parallel Drawing Automotive exterior

Also... In this diagram it shows the washer [21] going on the outside of the caliper axle stay. That would not allow the axle to fully enter the rear swing arm recess. I have always taken it from between the end of the wheel bearing spacer [22] and the brake caliper stay. That is correct? Or did someone along the way do something stupid and change something?
 

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Question: Should I have used Loctite on the 4 bolts that hold the drive "pumpkin" in place? There was none on them to begin with but so far I am not putting any stock into the previous work done. (or not done in this case) I am going to remove the rear wheel again in a few days do check on the state of things, clean up any extra moly and replace the brake pads when they come in and I can just add it if needed then. I am not going to be putting 200 miles a day on the bike before that so I am not worried about them coming loose but if yall think it is a good/bad idea I will go on that.
I didn't. Properly torqued there is no reason they should come loose.
 

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I have used loctite on those 4 nuts, wouldn't worry about it much. If you have a thin film of moly, no worries, you need very little. If you have too much it will spray out onto the wheel, just wipe off it will quit eventually. No need to pull the wheel. Yes the washer goes between the caliper stay and the swingarm, the axle pulls in to create a sandwich all pulled to the left side. Once you snug up the big nut, do up the pinch bolt. IMHO 80 ft. lbs is plenty on the big nut.
 
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle tire Tire Bicycle chain


Just to be clear, the axle goes all the way through, pinches on the whole wheel, brake, drive, etc and THEN you tighten the pinch bolt. The outside of the axle (hex part) is flush with the swingarm.
 
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