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Hi FRJ'rs,

I heard good things about the STS turn system so I recently bought it from Moldavia. Crazy right. I looked at the install instructions and listened on youtube installs on a FJR and concluded that my skill isn't high to get it right. There are some challenges to mounting it for an FJR 1300. With that in mind I came up with the idea that perhaps there is an installer somewhere near Sunnyvale California zip is 94087 that has done it before and needs cash or is a local person who wouldn't mind walking me through it. I rarely do motorcycle electronic installs and as old Clint used to say, "a man's got to know his limitations." I can't imagine what I would do if I opened this baby up and didn't get through all the install requirements for the STS Smart Turn and failed. It'd be pretty ugly. So anyone out there know an installer near 94087 zip or local who actually installed the Smart Turn System on an FJR? I would be happy to pay for the install or help. Thanks. This is a 2013 FJR 1300 without electronic suspension. It's in wonderful shape. Picture below.

BTW, Santa Clara Cycles a great local shop turned down doing it as it looked to them rather involved. I asked STS if they had a recommended installer and they did not.

Thanks.
Mark
 

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The connections you need are up in the nose, so have to remove windshield, dash trim, upper dash trim. Do a search for "turn signal" and you'll find some threads... such as this one........
You will need 6 positap connectors unless you want to use insulated spade terminals. You do have to cut three wires and connect the STS wires to the cut ends. Then you need a switched power supply (e.g. fuse tap in the hazard fuse works) it is low power, and a ground wire.

https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/10-fjr-farkling-ii/129130-st2-self-cancel-turn-signal.html
 

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Hi FRJ'rs,
I heard good things about the STS turn system so I recently bought it from Moldavia. Crazy right. I looked at the install instructions and listened on youtube installs on a FJR and concluded that my skill isn't high to get it right. anyone out there know an installer near 94087 zip or local who actually installed the Smart Turn System on an FJR? I would be happy to pay for the install or help. Thanks. This is a 2013 FJR 1300 without electronic suspension. Thanks.
Mark
Mark,

If you install two connectors on the STS cable, it becomes a plug-and-play install, with no cutting of wires and an easy switch back to stock, if desired.

Take a look:

http://www.fjriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2378#p33332

You only need the STS Blackbox (the top) part of this diagram, not all the rest. Enlarge and print the image. Wires that do not connect to the STS are wired straight across, pin-to-pin, from the male connector to the female. The STS with connectors will just go into the turn signal plugs, on the bike.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b551/John-dv/STS/ACCESSORY%20WIRING_zpsnlydvrkw.jpg

HTH.
.
 

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Not only do I not want to start splicing wires and tapping into the electrical system on my bike, I'm not sure there's a need for such a device. The FJR already has self-cancelling turn signals: You have to cancel them yourself.

Haynes
 
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The connector red mentions is for Gen2 and is a mating OEM connector, so that will work for that application. Gen3 has different connectors, and I wasn't able to locate a source for those particular ones.
 

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If we could properly identify the OEM, maybe by now we can find one... If memory serves, the 2013 had a different one than 2014 plus... pics and a coupla measurements and we can dig into it again. 10-way or 13-way with 12 used, etc....
 

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I don't get the big deal with not cutting the wires by using two connectors. You can get back virtually to stock by just replacing the cut wires between the connectors. Is it really that big a deal that the exact same wires be saved and put back in place? Or am I missing something?

I can't imagine ever going back to stock anyway and when I do sell my bike I can't imagine a buyer being concerned with this. There are just too many other things to be looking at when you are buying a used bike.
 

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I don't get the big deal with not cutting the wires by using two connectors. You can get back virtually to stock by just replacing the cut wires between the connectors. Is it really that big a deal that the exact same wires be saved and put back in place? Or am I missing something?

I can't imagine ever going back to stock anyway and when I do sell my bike I can't imagine a buyer being concerned with this. There are just too many other things to be looking at when you are buying a used bike.
If and that's a big if, the wiring was done cleanly, securely and neatly, there is no issue but I've seen soooo many hack jobs that I wouldn't buy a modified bike unless I gave the wiring a good inspection. I know what to look for because I've been wiring aircraft for the past 40 years. If I didn't know what to look for, I would walk away from a bike that had electrical mods done to it.
 

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I'm intrigued...

Way back in the day I had a Seca 750 with self-cancelling signals and after that I had a V45 Sabre also with self-cancelling signals. None of my FJ1200s had them nor does my '06 FJR so I've been riding without them since 1994. When I had self-cancelling signals I just loved it. When I went to bikes without them I learned to live with it. After I became a riding instructor doing road tests and saw how many people who have self-cancelling signals rely on them too much, I changed my mind. What I mean is that most factory self-cancelling turn-signal systems (except maybe ones on newer bikes?) either cancel too soon or too late. Too early is usually when the rider is entering an expressway and the turn-signal cancels before they get onto the acceleration lane and actually merge into traffic. Too late is when the rider makes a turn at an intersection and then the signal stays on after they've passed a number of driveways or side streets. Either case can make for a dangerous situation. We tell our students with self-cancelling signals that they should still get in the habit of cancelling them (or having to turn them back on) for just those reasons.

That being said, I am curious how well the Smart Turn System works if it is cancelling not just based on time and/or distance but lean angle, acceleration, etc. Anyone here have it installed? What are your thoughts? How "smart" is it?

Zwartie
 

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The V65 (and your V45) had a pendulum system and mechanical lever/relay to flick them off, rather ingenious and it worked.. Many electronic sytems (Goldwings) rely on timers/distance, etc. and none seem to fit all situations. STS has accelerometers to sense lean angle, etc. but also has a timer I believe 20 seconds before it times out in the event of no turn or didn't cancel. Senses lane changes but one must be upright and initiate a lane change signal, even leaning slightly will cause it sometimes not to cancel after lane change complete, but still quite good, but not perfect.


STS (and Kisan) require adding springs or foam (supplied) to the existing turn signal switch so it self-centers... push to initiate, push again to cancel, it activates a latching circuit.
 
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I'm intrigued... Way back in the day I had a Seca 750 with self-cancelling signals and after that I had a V45 Sabre also with self-cancelling signals. None of my FJ1200s had them nor does my '06 FJR so I've been riding without them since 1994.
I am curious how well the Smart Turn System works if it is cancelling not just based on time and/or distance but lean angle, acceleration, etc. Anyone here have it installed? What are your thoughts? How "smart" is it?
Zwartie
Zwartie,

My 1985 FJ1100 has self-cancelling turn signals, based on both time elapsed and distance traveled, whichever comes first. Good stuff. Wish my FJR1300 had the same set-up, or maybe something better. The FJ1100 set-up was fine, IMHO, and you canceled the turn signals manually at the push of the turn signal button, if needed. The turn signal "relay" was an epoxy-encased module, though, so if it fails now, you may be out of luck for a serviceable replacement.

I can't report on the STS system operation. I hear that it works well, but if you want to cancel the STS turn signals manually, you have to select (activate) the other side of the turn signal switch briefly. That seems kinda lame and awkward for such a "smart" system. Close, but no banana. :wink: Maybe a "Cancel" function like Yamaha had on my FJ1100, on the next generation of STS?
.
 

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The manual cancel can be push again the same side or the other side, doesn't matter. You're right though, why not design something where you can leave the OEM switch function as is....
 
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I think you cancel only by pressing again in the same direction. If you press in the opposite direction it switches to the opposite direction.
 

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My 1985 FJ1100 has self-cancelling turn signals, based on both time elapsed and distance traveled, whichever comes first. Good stuff.
Thanks Red. My buddy has an '85 FJ1100 as well and it has self-cancelling signals, just like my '81 Seca 750 had. It seems odd that Yamaha seemed to take a step backward by removing it in FJ1200. Maybe they just didn't think it was worth the cost. Who knows.

Zwartie
 

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STS install tips

I just put an STS on my 2014es. This isn't a full report on how to do this. Just a few tips to supplement the instructions. "2 wheel Obsession" has a video on you tube showing the disassembly of body parts but he got stuck cutting the wrong wires, so watch the whole video and make sure you do the wiring right. It was a red 2014 as well.

You only need to take console 1, that goes over the gauges, and the left cover around the glove box off. Take your signal switch apart on the left handlebar and ID the wire colors. My wire colors were different than the manual for some reason and thats why i think 2 wheel obsession had trouble. Then follow that harness down to under the gauges by the headlight adjuster. Loosen the 2 adjustable zip ties holding the harnesses to get enough slack to work in there.

I didn't like the idea of putting the connections under the nose bc it gets really wet up in there. So after i took all that apart like Mr Obsession, i now realize you can leave that alone, if you like, and do it this way. If you look at how the air/rain go through the nose piece you will see what i mean. everything up front gets soaked in the rain. The connectors up there are all water tight connectors just for that reason. So i did my connections behind the gauges where the harness goes around the headlight adjuster.

The 3 signal wires on my bike, lt, rt, and flasher are w/y, w/b, and bl/r, and because i didn't think i was going to be writing this i can''t tell you for sure which is lt or rt. Verify this for yourself to be certain and notice when you throw the signal switch to the left it is connecting to the rt side wire. I cut, stripped and crimped the supplied connectors on them. Be sure you get the male and female parts right. I know some of you guys have a hard time with that stuff so... I took power from the glove box accessory plug wires, which are right in that area.

You need to test the unit with power and signal wires going to bike side of the harness only in order to verify you got it right before hooking everything together so read the instructions and test the unit before moving to final assy. The blinkers should blink independently when turning on the key. Which is kinda cool. Now if i see a bike blink like that i know they have one of these units installed.

When you get her all wired up and tested, tape up the harness and make it water tight and durable. Then test it again before you reassemble any further just in case...

For the switch: I found the small rubber pads were not enough and the large were too big for the switch so i cut the large down by 1/3 thickness and then punched a hole in them to make them actuate easier.

Last and only other time i had self cancelling signals prior was on a 79' RD 400F. My beloved Daytona Special. That thing cost me $1500 NIB and it had self cancelling signals. WTF Yama Mama these FJR's cost quite a bit more and we deserve it. We ain't gettin any younger!
 

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Allrider, when I took mine apart, I didn't see any evidence of anything up there getting wet, but yes take precautions. The fairings are such that water slips over all the joints pretty well, however you can take a piece of plastic bag and cover your work, tape or zip tie it on, good to go.
 

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Wow...rare to hear from a Seca owner...was a great ride for me
 

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I just put an STS on my 2014es. This isn't a full report on how to do this. Just a few tips to supplement the instructions. "2 wheel Obsession" has a video on you tube showing the disassembly of body parts but he got stuck cutting the wrong wires, so watch the whole video and make sure you do the wiring right. It was a red 2014 as well.

You only need to take console 1, that goes over the gauges, and the left cover around the glove box off. Take your signal switch apart on the left handlebar and ID the wire colors. My wire colors were different than the manual for some reason and thats why i think 2 wheel obsession had trouble. Then follow that harness down to under the gauges by the headlight adjuster. Loosen the 2 adjustable zip ties holding the harnesses to get enough slack to work in there.

I didn't like the idea of putting the connections under the nose bc it gets really wet up in there. So after i took all that apart like Mr Obsession, i now realize you can leave that alone, if you like, and do it this way. If you look at how the air/rain go through the nose piece you will see what i mean. everything up front gets soaked in the rain. The connectors up there are all water tight connectors just for that reason. So i did my connections behind the gauges where the harness goes around the headlight adjuster.

The 3 signal wires on my bike, lt, rt, and flasher are w/y, w/b, and bl/r, and because i didn't think i was going to be writing this i can''t tell you for sure which is lt or rt. Verify this for yourself to be certain and notice when you throw the signal switch to the left it is connecting to the rt side wire. I cut, stripped and crimped the supplied connectors on them. Be sure you get the male and female parts right. I know some of you guys have a hard time with that stuff so... I took power from the glove box accessory plug wires, which are right in that area.

You need to test the unit with power and signal wires going to bike side of the harness only in order to verify you got it right before hooking everything together so read the instructions and test the unit before moving to final assy. The blinkers should blink independently when turning on the key. Which is kinda cool. Now if i see a bike blink like that i know they have one of these units installed.

When you get her all wired up and tested, tape up the harness and make it water tight and durable. Then test it again before you reassemble any further just in case...

For the switch: I found the small rubber pads were not enough and the large were too big for the switch so i cut the large down by 1/3 thickness and then punched a hole in them to make them actuate easier.

Last and only other time i had self cancelling signals prior was on a 79' RD 400F. My beloved Daytona Special. That thing cost me $1500 NIB and it had self cancelling signals. WTF Yama Mama these FJR's cost quite a bit more and we deserve it. We ain't gettin any younger!
I see you posted up the ST2 is 40% off with coupon code C48DB24P at safer-turn.com. Thanks, got one coming!
 

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