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I'm curious what the high-end of mileage is for these bikes. I have 60,000 miles on my 2003 FJR, and begin to wonder about long-term reliability. How many miles do you have, and any thoughts on the reliability question?
 

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I'm hoping for long time reliability mines going for its 24K service exactly on its 1st birthday . The advantage I am taking is that its being serviced at the FJ club garage in UK and they do it by the book and charge less than dealers.

:twisted:
 

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128.000 miles

Heard yesterday about a 2001 bike that had done 128,000 miles would't have belived it until I was shown the bike and full history stamped in handbook in local dealers. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
 

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Re: 128.000 miles

FJR TKD said:
Heard yesterday about a 2001 bike that had done 128,000 miles would't have belived it until I was shown the bike and full history stamped in handbook in local dealers. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
Seems a perfectly reasonable mileage to me :wink: :lol:
 

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Marshman, being a high miles guy, i've a question for ya, have just got the 06 from Alfords as you know, will be doing more bike miles now for various reasons, approx 25k / yr, whats your thoughts on buy new and keep until almost worthless, rack up the astronomical miles until bike dies OR get a year / 18 months under its wheels and whilst still worth good money top up and go new again. ? I genuinely wonder if I do it the most cost effective thing doing that or not ?. if you put 3k to change each time i know you've bought another whole bike in 3 changes ( or 5 years ) but its the constantly newish bike thats under manufacturers warranty issue thats the thing that makes me wonder.
 

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I generally change my bikes every 3 years with 60 to 80 thousand Km on them. More often than that is too much hassle, but if you leave it much longer, you lose too much value, and the step up to a new bike is too big.

With the dealers here, I find that anything over 100 000 Km showing on the clock and the bike is worthless, you can't give it away. I don't know why, because these big shaft drive bikes will do a hell of a lot more than that without any trouble if you look after them.
 

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That's the problem with most British "bikers", who do about 3000 per summer miles and that's it - therefore anything with over 20k on the clock and it's considered "high" mileage - when of course it is not - certainly for a tourer......
 

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Do try and keep up old son, i'm talking to guys that I know do big miles to ask their opinion about the cost effectiveness of keeping hold or changing at 30k / 40k ish BECAUSE THE INDUSTRY OFFER YOU SUCH A POOR PART/EX !!! did I say I thought 20k on a bike was mega miles....well did I...? jeez! to help rabbit try to keep up the question was more about guys with experience of high mileage trade in's and what THEY have deduced about the reasonable time / miles / trade off in terms of balance to change the bike for another new one without too high a jump to do it.
 

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Have just traded mine in for a new 06 A version. The one just traded is 02 plate (May 2002) with 18,500mls on clock and it has lost £2,600 in 4-years, I would consider that to be not bad at all :ale:
 

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miguel21op said:
Mine is from July 2005 and has 15.200 km 8)
You guys have it good, here in Japan, a bike with 15-20,000 kms is considered well used (obviously this is BS) but the value drops a lot.
My '06 FJR A is already close to 14,000 kms and I've only had it for 3 months. Given the valuation structure here and my mileage growth my bike will loose a lot of it's value before it's first birthday in about a years time :cry:
IMHO, some extra "gentle/normal" miles and thorough and regular service are far less important than fewer "hard" miles and/or inadequate service
 

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Hey waldy, who rattled your cage? Of course I knew wot you was onabout, I passed my 11 plus you know :wink: My statement was a frustration at the British buying public, and of course the dealers that supply them.

@ nu77er - are you kidding? knocking on 6 grand or more for your bike in px?
 

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Rabbit, I do rant dont I ? but your not wrong buddy, I fail to understand why the dealers who are the "industry" hit us so hard come trade in, when a very well turned out bike with full yamy service history and 50 / 60k on the clock on a high speed high distance large capacity bike like the FJR which at that point might be no more than a third of the way through its usefull life, makes me wonder if my usual 2 yearly pt/ex as opposed to keeping much more long term is shooting myself in the foot and just justifies and feeds the dealer attitude i'm annoyed at. damn its all my fault !!! :shock:
 

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Waldy, no cunning plan here, it's all happened by accident. :lol:

The old FJR was my first brand new bike, and being a hoarder at heart I didn't buy it with the intention of selling it. The astronomical mileage has only happened since I got promoted (ha!! :( ) to this contract in London, and public transport wasn't a real option. However I'm hoping it'll be over by December, and I'll have to consider the options then.
Mind you, even before I started with all the commuting its 12,000 service came up after 11 months and the dealer commented that it was going to be a high mileage bike. :roll:

Might be tempting fate to talk about the long term reliability of the FJR. Last time I did that it was written off before another month had passed. All I will say is that if someone has a method of refurbishing the front brake calipers that costs less than the £337 EACH Yamaha want for them there might be a market out there :x
 

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Unfortunately, its a little bit more complicated than a normal rebuild, so thats the cost of buying new ones. :(

Over the last few months the bike has got a bit 'rattly' at the front when going over bumps at low speed. It's always sounded plasticky, so I assumed it may have been something in the fairing rattling, but after a few attempts to trace it I finally pinned it down last weekend.
Turns out that over time, the gap in the calipers that the pads slot into has opened up at each end and there is now a lot more room for the pads to move around in the caliper parallel with the disk than there should be. A small amount of play is necessary, but the retaining pins that go through the top of the calipers have also enlarged the holes they fit in to, so there is now a fair bit of play in the whole arrangement.
The clunking is caused by the brake pads moving forwards and back, hitting the caliper body at each end. The shock is transmitted up the fork leg, and broadcast via the mudguard, which is why it has plastic sound. Currently this has no effect on the braking efficiency, but it needs sorting at some point as the rate of wear will accelerate as the clearances open up.

Have fitted new pins and spring clips, which has considerably reduced the rattling, but its still there, and will only get worse again.
Only permanent cure is replacement calipers, or a lot of work (drilling and sleeving the holes for the retaining pins, and replacing the the lost metal from the caliper bodies) that may or may not cure it.

Ebay here we come :(
 
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