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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, after having my frame sliders in a box for about a year, I have decided to actually install them. Problem is that I cannot seem to find the drilling template in my trusty BikeJohnny box.

I am just to chicken to pull out the Dremmel and just hack away at my plastic. So, this seems to be the day to ask for help :roll:

Any of you master farklers have a template that I can print out. And, exactly where do these babies go? I can kind of guess.

Thanks again,

Boof
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, I did kind of find the text instructions on BikeJohnny but was hoping to find a template (thinking that it would negate the need to remove the lowers maybe??). Just thinking lazy :wink:

Boof
 

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R&G Sliders

Hey Boof - I have literally just come out of the garage where I was about to fit my R&G sliders. I don't have a template either, just the crap instructions about a blob of Tippex.

I did drop an e-mail to R&G to see if they had a template in pdf format but haven't had a reply yet. Maybe they don't know what a pdf is...

They actually mount about halfway up the fairing panel. If you look through the vent you will see a hefty engine bolt there which you replace.

Trouble is, how do you get your fairing panel off without carrying a torque wrench with you? :?

I know they probably provide the best protection but I'm still reluctant to cut holes in my lovely bke.

Allan DD
 

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No need to take the panels off the bike.

As you say, the Big Bolt can be seen by peeking behind the panel.

Cover the whole area with masking tape and, using a pencil, sight the centre of the bolt. Mark the masking tape and drill a 5mm pilot hole.

You can now sight whenre the centre of the bolt really is.

Mark a 1/2" circle and drill a series of 5mm holes around that, then use the Dremel to open up the hole a bit.

You should now be able to get a big allen socket extension in there and take out the bolt.

Offer up the slider, engage the bolt and circle the inner edge of the sider on the masking tape with the pencil.

Remove the slider and open out the hole to the mark.

Ensure it all fits, remove masking tape, and fasten the slider.

Sorted!
 

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Cheers Rich, I'll give it a go.

p.s. You must be about 7 miles away from me in Balsall Common
 

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I don't have any materials left to help, sorry.

The instructions above work. You MUST use a torque wrench. That motor bolt only takes about 40 ft pounds, IIRC, and people have stripped the threads.

I've crash tested them, and they are worth it.




:)
 

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I think I still have my templates in my garage dearnla, will have a look for you.

BUT, the template is still not exactly accurate, you still have to drill a pilot hole and sight (I used a thin welding rod to get an idea)

BUT, I did both, one with template and one without, plus I did my mates Blackbird without.

Took the panel off, removed the foam in the immediate area, half fit the panel back on, used a longer bolt with a blob of white paint, pressed the panel against the bolt, remove panel and drill from the inside a pilot hole, reverse panel and drill from the outside with a 1 inch hole cutter, slow and easy.

Refit and test, ream out with dremel (real slow...) or file for a final fit.

It's holding your breath for such a long time when you press the drill trigger - that is the hard part..........
 

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dearnla said:
You must be about 7 miles away from me in Balsall Common
Alan,

I have updated my profile to be marginially more accurate as I'm in Wythall, near M42 jn 3.

However, I currently work in Tile Hill and have the joys of pedalling or riding through Balsall Common most mornings.

Regretably, I'm no longer an FJR owner, having exchanged the machine for something more suited to the daily commute along the very ropey lanes through Earlswood, Hockley Heath, Lapwoth and Chadwick End. It's a BMW R1200GS.

But I still lurk here (and hang my head in shame).

If you need a hand with the sliders, please give me a shout.

Regards,
Rich
 

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Hows the GS then Rich as I have been looking at those me self.

Dearnla, If you need a hand I will help as well as I'm only in Hall Green.
 

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Neal - It has changed my view on motorcyling. For example, last Sunday morning was cold and wet. Too cold and wet to go cycling so I went out on the GS and chugged my way around the smallest and yukkiest little lanes in North Warwickshire for three hours. When I got home I just hosed the bike (and myself) down.

I no longer find myself needing to "make progress" and I'm happier just sitting in with traffic flow, or turning off the A road for a lumpy, bendy B road. But it is quite capable of hustling along when required.

The 1200GS is noticeably lighter than the FJR, but much taller. The wind protection isn't as good, but I have improved matters enormously with a taller screen (just like the FJR in that respect!). At just 100hp it clearly hasn't got the grunt of the FJR. But it is proving a very versatile multi-purpose bike as it will chugg along grotty lanes one minute and not disgrace itself with the sports bikes in the next minute.

The real benefit though is in relation to the general state of UK roads. Due to poor maintenance, more and more roads have turned into a series of potholes and cracked surfaces. The GS just takes them all in its stride.

For a flat, air-cooled twin the engine is very smooth (the 1200's have a balancer shaft in there somewhere), the gearbox when warm is as good at the Yamaha and the servo-assisted & linked brakes are truly awesome but do take a bit of getting used to.

No 1st gear clunk to scare passing pedestrians. And with a 6th gear I'm not searching for that extra cog at speed. Gear position indicator on the dash.

The bike is very advanced (possibly too advanced!!). It went the opposite way to the new FJR in that it lost 30kg (yes three-zero) compared to the previous 1150GS. Totally dry weight is 199kgs so that's about 225kgs fully oiled and fueled. The electrical system is one of the single-wire CanBus thingys, so adding accessories has involved a bit of devious trickery. Brakes are ABS, servo-assist and part-linked. Front brake activates both front and rear, and rear pedal only operates the rear. So using both brakes (as I'm used to) tends to eat the rear pads.

Seating postion is upright compared to the FJR and the bars are wide. The seat is fairly narrow at the front and that helps with getting the feet down. I'm 6' and have the seat on "low" and can't quite flat both feet at the same time. I can't comment on pillions etc as I only ride solo.

There is no doubt that I do miss the FJR and, in an ideal world, I'd have one of each in the garage. Now, where's that Euromillions ticket ......
 

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Well it seems that you like it then!
Do you do much pillion stuff? and if so whats it like as 80% of my riding is with pillion.
I have come across a few of the 1150 and are quite quick in the twisties and can keep up a good average speed and have impressed me.
 

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Can't comment on what it's like with a pillion, or provide any opinions on behalf of a pillion passenger I'm afraid.

The missus doesn't ride. The laddo wants to, but the missus isn't overly keen.

However, I should point out that BMW "adventure" bikes should come with a wallet warning. The Farkle list for FJR's pales into insignificance compared to the accessories available for these machines. Buying the bike is the only the entry level initial transaction as there are so, so many tempting goodies out there.

(Apologies for hijacking the original thread).

In the flesh:-

 

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@dearnla

Ok, I've found the Bikejohnny template in my garage

pm me with your address and I'll post it to you if you still want it.


@boofer

I tried scanning it then printing, but won't do it to the exact size within the limits of my equipment.

The only thing I can do is photo copy it at work then mail it to you perhaps?
 

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R&G Sliders

Do both sides get the aluminum spacer? My left side worked out fine since the frame swallowed the spacer in lieu of the washer. But the right side hole is too small to swallow this spacer. Just leave it out? I'll check if there were 2 washers on the right side.
Thanks,
Bruce
 

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I seem to recall that with R&G each side has a spacer, but they are differing lengths. Shorter spacer on the right?
 

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....if you bought them from Bike Johnny orginally they ( we) will know that and a quick e-mail would have another template in the post to you by return!

Just in case anyone finds themselves templateless in the future! :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I installed the sliders today (I know I procrastinate). There is only one thing I can say after drilling big holes in my fairing :ale:

I felt like a dentist in training whilst performing my first root canal :roll:

@richfjr - thank you, instructions were dead on.

I have one comment and a question;

Comment - battery power dremels suck. Mine kept on stopping, overheating....or something. I just pitched it in the garbage and went to the Home Depot and picked up a man's dremel with a power cord.

Question - I forgot the blue lock tite. You think I will be okay to ride it till I can pick up some at the store later this week?

Thanks for all the help.

Boof
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
@ liquid - are you sure about that being 40Ft pounds of torque?? When I took out the bolts it didn't feel like that. Could it be inch pounds maybe?? Or am I just afraid to use the BIG torque wrench :wink:

I used to own the 2003 FJR manual on CD but lost it :p

Later and thanks again.
 
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